If you struggle to fit reading into your day, the best audiobook apps let you multitask and listen to the latest releases while driving, exercising, or even making dinner. Audiobooks are increasingly popular, and by 2022, more than 140 million Americans had listened to one, according to Publisher’s Weekly. 

Audiobook apps vary in features and the breadth of their libraries. Many require a monthly or yearly subscription, and some offer media beyond audiobooks, such as podcasts. Voracious listeners may prefer a subscription service where you can indulge in as many audiobooks as you want in a month. But if it takes you a month or two to get through an audiobook, a pay-per-book platform will probably be more economical. 

Ultimately, the operating system of your devices, your listening preferences, and budget will all factor into the app that’s right for you as you discover your next great adventure.

1. Best overall: Audible

Founded in 1995 and acquired by Amazon in 2008, Audible is one of the pioneers in the audiobook space. The service lets you get your hands on almost any title that’s in audiobook form. You’ll also get access to podcasts, exclusives, and originals that are only available on the platform. 

Audible offers two membership tiers, and both provide access to the Audible ‘Plus’ catalog, which contains more than 10,000 audiobooks. The Audible Premium Plus membership adds one credit per month, so you can buy books outside of the Plus catalog, giving you access to an additional 470,000 audiobooks. Without the premium membership, you can purchase credits to listen to more audiobooks.

The platform also lets you keep access to your Audible books even if you cancel your subscription. In contrast, similar apps, like Scribd, only provide access to purchased books as long as you subscribe to the app. Others, like Hoopla and Libby, let you peruse your local library’s list of audiobooks. But they only provide access for a few weeks before you have to get on the reading list again. 

2. Best for iPhone: Apple Books

Apple Books is a convenient way to get digital reads and audiobooks that sync to all of your Apple devices. Unlike many audiobook apps, Apple Books isn’t a subscription service. It works more like a digital bookstore, where you pay for each book. 

For those who only listen to a book or two a month, Apple Books might cost less than a subscription service. Plus, if you have months where you don’t have time to listen at all, you won’t be paying for an unused subscription. There’s also a decent selection of free audiobooks that includes classics such as Pride and Prejudice if your budget gets tight. 

Beyond the monetary pros and cons, the app itself offers a robust library that’s easy to navigate, thanks to effective categorization. You can browse thousands of titles by popular genres, but you can also search by other categories such as free books, new and trending, book club picks, and Apple recommendations. And you can sample short snippets before you make your final decision. 

The library goes beyond audiobooks to digital titles as well. In theory, you could do most of your reading, audio or otherwise, in this single app. Your Apple devices will require iOS 10 or later, but you can sync across the board, including iPads, iPhone, some iPods, and some Apple Watches. Bonus—you also have the option to download and import Audible titles, so add that to your Audible tips and tricks list if you find yourself moving between the two.

Apple Books is free for iOS, iPadOS, and watchOS.

3. Best for nonfiction: Blinkist

Blinkist isn’t just an audiobook app. It’s not even just a book app. This unique app focuses on all things learning, from podcasts and book summaries to audiobooks. It’s some of the best value you’ll get if you’re focused on nonfiction, even more so if you’re usually short on time. 

The app offers book summaries in manageable 15-minute chunks, and includes popular books like Atomic Habits by James Clear. You can download titles to access them offline or send them to Kindle. Books are arranged by topics, including love, self-help, memoirs, autobiographies, and more. Popular new releases and classics are readily available. The goal is to “feed your brain” and improve your mind and body with content that fits a busy lifestyle. 

[Related: Tips for learning two languages at once]

Blinkist is an easy way to access facts and books you might not have time to get to otherwise, and it doesn’t take long before you get personalized recommendations based on your preferences and habits. You get a seven-day free trial, then it costs $15.99 per month for the monthly plan or $8.24 per month if you opt to pay yearly.

Blinkist is available on iOS, iPadOS, and Android.

4. Best free: LibriVox

Subscriptions and monthly purchases can quickly add up. For those on a tight budget, LibriVox offers free (and legal) audiobooks. Their catalog consists of more than 40,000 books available in the public domain, read by volunteers. 

You won’t find the latest releases, but you can catch up on classics. The books are DRM-free so you can download audiobooks as many times as you’d like and listen when you’re offline or on other devices. This matters because DRM (Digital Rights Management) prevents unauthorized copying of copyrighted content, but can cause problems on your devices, too. No need to worry about all that with LibriVox, though, because every bit of its content is in the public domain. 

The interface isn’t sleek or fancy, but it offers bookmark and timer features to support your basic listening needs. If you’re up for a bit of out-loud reading, you can volunteer to read a book yourself. However, the quality of the narration varies by volunteer, so you may skip some books because the storytelling doesn’t do it justice. Still, you can’t beat free audiobooks and a platform that celebrates the love of literature. 

LibriVox is available for iOS, iPadOS, and Android.

5. Best budget: Chirp

Chirp is where thrift store meets audiobooks. It’s owned by BookBub, an author promotion site. Thousands of subscribers scramble to get deals on new or popular books, like $5 for a Harlan Coben audiobook. The deal on any one particular book usually lasts a few days and listings show a countdown for how much longer the deal will last. Authors vie for the best promotions because of Bookbub’s extensive reach.

Chirp fits into the picture by offering discounted audiobooks. For listeners, Chirp is a win for the savings, and for authors, the platform is a great way to  find new readers. You pay by the book rather than a subscription fee. And the depth of the discounts vary.

On the downside, deals are limited, so you have to act fast when you see a book you want. The app itself is free, and you get to keep the audiobooks you purchase, so it’s a great way to build your library on a budget.

Chirp is free for iOS, iPadOS, and Android.

The post The best audiobook apps for books and podcasts appeared first on Popular Science.

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The rear camera on your iPhone 15 (also present on the iPhone 14 Pro and iPhone 14 Pro Max) is more powerful and versatile than you might have realized. It features a 48-megapixel sensor but default settings only allow it to take 24MP snaps.

The good news is that you can delve into your iPhone’s settings to switch your camera to full capacity and get more detail in your photos. There are some trade-offs you should know about, and the exact options vary depending on the iPhone you’re using. But if you’re serious about your smartphone photography, you should learn about the modes available to you and how they work.

How the iPhone 15 cameras work

When you take a photo on your iPhone 15 without the ultrawide or zoom sensors, iOS uses  the main 48MP sensor to create a 24MP shot. There are two reasons for that—first, it keeps file size down, and second, it allows pixel binning, which means the camera combines multiple pixels to capture more light and produce a better image.

However, if you have the room on your iPhone to store the resulting snaps, you can switch to 48MP photos. Professional photographers often make the switch because capturing more pixels provides more flexibility over the final shot by letting you take control over how those pixels are processed. 

[Related: Check out some of the winners of the latest iPhone Photography Awards]

But you should know there are differences depending on the iPhone you’re using.  The dual-lens on the iPhone 15 and the iPhone 15 Plus, has a slightly inferior 48MP sensor than the triple-lens on the iPhone 15 Pro and the iPhone 15 Pro Max—the number of pixels is the same, but the pixel-capturing tech isn’t quite as good.

The other key difference is that the iPhone 15 Pro and Pro Max can capture RAW images, which Apple calls ProRAW photos. This format provides all the raw data from a digital image, providing photographers even more control and options over their work. RAW snaps take a little longer to process, use up a lot more storage space, and need some photo know-how to optimize, which is why the average smartphone photographer doesn’t bother with them.

The iPhone 15 and iPhone 15 Plus don’t have the processing grunt to manage RAW snaps, but they can still capture 48MP images in either HEIF or JPEG format. The result is still 48MP-size pictures but they’ll be slightly compressed, which takes away some of the manual post-processing control you get with RAW images. In certain ways, using a HEIF or JPEG format (which you can also do on the Pro models) goes halfway between shooting 24MP snaps and 48MP ProRAW, with the added benefit of significantly cutting down file sizes.

If you’re considering making the switch to 48MP photos, bear in mind that means a slightly longer time between tapping the shutter button and seeing your image on screen. What’s more, the dynamic range (the spread between the darkest blacks and the whitest whites) won’t be quite as good without pixel binning. 

How to change the iPhone 15 camera settings

Having absorbed all of that information about photo formats, you’re ready to start making changes. Head to Settings in iOS, then tap on Camera. Unless you’re already shooting in RAW, your first choice will be between High Efficiency (HEIF) or Most Compatible (JPEG) for the image format.

Which one you pick is really up to you and will depend on what you’re doing with your snaps after you’ve taken them. HEIF tends to result in smaller file sizes, but JPEG is generally compatible with a broader range of software on desktop and the web. There’s plenty of information about both online.

[Related: The easiest ways to back up iPhone photos without iCloud]

To unlock the 48MP photos, turn on Resolution Control (on the iPhone 15 and iPhone 15 Plus) or ProRAW & Resolution Control (on the iPhone 15 Pro and iPhone 15 Pro Max). On the latter models you can also tap Pro Default to pick your preferred format: The list includes HEIF Max (up to 48MP), JPEG Max (up to 48MP), ProRAW 12MP, and ProRAW Max (up to 48MP). Underneath these options, Apple lists the average file size for each format, so you have an idea of how much space each picture will take up—10MB for a 48MP JPEG, for example, and 75MB for a 48MP ProRAW.

Launch the camera on your iPhone, and the new 48MP option will appear in the corner. It’ll be crossed out to begin with, so tap the icon to turn it on and choose which format you want to shoot—HEIF Max, JPEG Max, or RAW Max. On the iPhone 15 Pro and Pro Max, press and hold on the icon to switch between HEIF/JPEG and ProRAW. Note that you won’t get the option to switch to ProRAW on the iPhone 15 and iPhone 15 Plus.

By default, the Camera app will forget that you enabled 48MP photos when you switch to another app, so the option will be crossed out again when you come back to it. To tell the camera to keep the 48MP enabled, open the iOS Settings screen, tap Camera, Preserve Settings, and then either Resolution Control or Apple ProRAW & Resolution Control, depending on your iPhone model.

Note that because of the way the iPhone 15 produces photos, it will default back to 24MP whenever you’re taking Live Photos or macro shots, or using Night mode or the flash. This will happen no matter what settings you’ve changed simply because those different modes require different types of image processing.

The post How to unlock the hidden, more powerful camera on the iPhone 15 appeared first on Popular Science.

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Editing photos on an iPhone may seem intimidating, given all the options and settings, but it’s accessible to all skill levels. Thanks to its user-friendly interface and intuitive controls, you can easily enhance your images with preset effects or manually adjust settings to achieve the desired look. No expensive editing software necessary.

The iPhone’s photo editor also offers advanced features such as selective editing, which allows you to make precise adjustments to specific areas of your images. Additionally, you can easily share your edited photos directly from the app by posting them to social media platforms or sending them to friends and family. 

How to edit photos on an iPhone

Since most of us snap pictures on the fly, we are not thinking about the composition or lighting when we take the photo. We are trying to capture a moment as quickly as possible. Thankfully, that’s where post-editing comes in. Like icing a cake, editing images gives them a finished look. And editing photos on an iPhone might be even easier than messing around with gloopy buttercream.

Crop, rotate, or flip your photo

Was your selfie interrupted by a random bystander? No worries; that’s why there’s the crop tool. Cropping is one of the easiest and fastest ways to remove unwanted elements or distractions from the frame. Trimming the edges can also help improve a photo’s composition by adjusting the placement and balance of elements within the frame. In Photos, tap any thumbnail to view it in full screen. To start making changes, tap Edit, then tap the crop icon to choose one of three ways you can crop a photo.

1. Manual crop: With the crop icon selected, drag the rectangle’s corners to enclose the area you want to keep in the photo. Tap Done to crop.

2. Zoom crop: Alternatively, you can crop iPhone images by activating the crop tool and pinching them to zoom in. When the photo appears as you want it cropped, hit Done to save.

3. Use a preset ratio: Tap the aspect ratio icon in the upper right corner (a small rectangle with other rectangles stacked on top), then choose one of the cropping options, including square, wallpaper, 9:16, and 5:4. Hit Done to save the change.

• Pro tip: If you choose a ratio crop, such as 9:16, you can select a vertical or horizontal orientation by tapping the two rectangles below the image.

How to rotate a picture on iPhone

Tap the rotate icon (a square with an arrow curving around one corner) to turn the photo 90 degrees at a time. Keep going until you get the orientation you desire. Hit Done to confirm the changes.

How to flip a photo on iPhone

Touch the flip icon (mirrored triangles with an arrow above them) to reverse the image horizontally. Tap Done to save your edits.

Just know that if you don’t like your crops, rotations, and/or flips at any time during the editing process, you can tap Cancel in the lower left corner of the screen, then hit Discard Changes. 

Straighten your image and adjust the perspective

Sometimes, you don’t notice tilted or skewed lines in a photograph until after you take it. Fortunately, altering the perspective is simple with the iPhone’s editing software. Open a photo on your iPhone, tap Edit, then hit the crop icon.

Under the photo, you will see three options for straightening the horizontal lines in the photo and adjusting the vertical and horizontal perspectives. When you choose the one you want to use, drag the slider underneath to make precise changes. There is also an Auto option at the top of the screen, which will automatically adjust the photo based on the selected adjustment.

1. Straighten: This adjustment, well, straightens out horizontal lines within a photograph.

2. Vertical perspective: Corrects or modifies the perceived height or angle of objects in a photo, straightening vertical lines that may appear tilted or distorted.

3. Horizontal perspective: Changes horizontal lines and angles in photos, ensuring parallel lines and your desired alignment. 

After editing the perspective, select Done to save your changes; if unsatisfied, hit Cancel, followed by Discard Changes.

Adjust light and color

Light and color are important factors when editing photos on an iPhone—and anywhere, really—because they affect an image’s overall mood and visual appeal. The right lighting will bring out the subject’s features, add depth, and make important details stand out. In the same way, changing a photograph’s colors can make the viewer feel certain emotions, set a particular mood, or even send a message. Your phone’s Photos app has several tools that will let you adjust the light and color of your pictures.

[Related: How to take better selfies]

To begin, open the photo you want to alter. Tap Edit, then swipe left under the image to view the effects you can edit. The quickest and easiest way to make adjustments is to tap on Auto, and the slider under the Auto tab will allow you to adjust the intensity of the iPhone’s suggested edit.

If you prefer complete edit control, though, the iPhone photo editor lets you adjust each effect individually for a custom edit. The effects you can alter are:

• Exposure: Increasing exposure can make an image brighter, while decreasing it can create a darker and more dramatic effect. 
• Brilliance: Enhances an image’s overall clarity and vibrancy, making it more visually striking.
• Highlights: Brings out the brightest areas of an image, adding a sense of brightness and contrast.
• Shadows: Darkens the darker areas of an image, creating depth.
• Contrast: Makes the difference between light and dark areas more pronounced.
• Brightness: Changes how light or dark the photo is overall, but not as dramatically as adjusting exposure.
• Blackpoint: Adjusts the darkest point in an image, allowing for greater control over the overall tonal range.
• Saturation: Affects the intensity and richness of colors in an image.
• Vibrance: Similar to saturation, but designed to enhance the colors more subtly and naturally. 
• Warmth: Adjusts the color temperature of an image, making it appear either warmer (more yellow/orange) or cooler (more blue). 
• Tint: Adjusts the overall color balance of an image, adding a subtle hue to the entire picture. 
• Sharpness: Enhances the clarity and detail of an image, making edges and fine textures more defined.
• Definition: Improves an image’s overall sharpness and clarity by enhancing the distinction between different elements and adding depth. 
• Noise Reduction: Reduces digital noise in an image, resulting in a smoother and cleaner appearance. This helps minimize the grainy or speckled effect that can occur in low-light settings. 
• Vignette: Darkens the corners and edges of the image, creating a subtle or dramatic spotlight effect.

To use an effect, tap on its icon and drag the slider underneath to make precise adjustments. The outline around the button indicates the degree of adjustment, and you can toggle between the edited effect and the original to see how much you’ve changed the photo.

Apply filters

Filter effects enable you to easily add creative and artistic elements to your photos, resulting in more visually appealing and captivating images. To apply a filter, open a photo, tap Edit, then tap the Filters button (the three overlapping circles) to pull up the filter effect options. There are nine to choose from. Use the slider underneath your chosen effect to adjust its intensity, and if you need to remove a filter, tap Original. Hit Done to confirm the edit.

Portrait mode editing tips

If you’re someone who likes to use Portrait mode, you’ll need to be familiar with the iPhone’s Portrait mode-specific enhancements. These allow you to adjust the depth of field (also known as bokeh), which is the range of distance within a photograph that appears in sharp focus and makes the subject stand out. Portrait mode’s editing tools also include studio lighting effects for added flexibility and creativity. 

When you open a photo taken in Portrait mode, you will see two editing options not available in the regular photo mode. The effect at the top with the little “f” is f-stop, or depth of field. The circles at the bottom of the screen are lighting effects.

Adjusting the f-stop will increase or decrease blurring in the background. The smaller the f-stop, the more blur you’ll see. A larger f-stop will mean less blur. Tap the f-stop icon, and a slider will appear at the bottom of the screen, allowing you to adjust the effect.

To adjust the lighting, tap one of the effects. You can choose from natural, studio, contour, stage, stage light mono, and high-key light mono. Move the slider to the left or right to increase or decrease the effect. 

Write or draw on a photo

It can be fun to write or draw on a picture, and the iPhone makes it easy to do so. Choose a photo, then go to Edit and tap the pen-shaped button. Use the various drawing tools and colors to draw on the picture.

You can tap the plus button to magnify or add a caption, text, shapes, or even your signature. Tap Done to save your changes, or tap Cancel if you don’t like them.

How to undo photo edits on an iPhone

Don’t worry if you make an editing mistake—the iPhone’s Photos app gives you plenty of opportunities to undo your edits.

Undo and redo edits: While editing a photo, tap the left and right arrows at the top of the screen to undo and redo multiple edit steps.

Revert an edited photo: If you save changes and decide you do not like the edit, you can open up the photo, select Edit, and then hit Revert to restore the original version. 

Copy and paste edits to multiple photos

The iPhone allows you to copy edits from one photo and paste them onto one or more others, an ability that is particularly useful when you’re trying to edit a series of similar photos. Start by opening the photo that contains the edits you want to copy. Then tap the More Options button (three dots), followed by Copy Edits. Hit Cancel, then the back button to return to your photo library.

From there, tap Select, then touch the thumbnails of the photos to which you want to apply the edits. Finally, select Paste Edits from the More Options menu.

How to remove the subject from a photo on an iPhone

Although you can’t edit the background of a photo with the iPhone’s Photos app (you’ll need to install a separate app for that), you can cut and paste one part of the picture—the subject.

To do so, the photo’s subject and background should be clearly distinct, and the background shouldn’t be too busy or similar to the subject. Start by opening an image, then pressing and holding the subject. You should see a white glow around the subject, and a window should pop up asking you to Copy or Share. If that doesn’t work, move your finger around and try again—sometimes, it takes more than one attempt to select a subject.

When it does work, your iPhone will automatically separate the subject from the background, and you’ll be able to copy and paste it into another app, or share it using standard sharing options.

If necessary, change the date, time, or location

Your iPhone stores the date, time, and location in the photo’s metadata. If you need to alter this information, you can. Open the photo you want to change, then tap the More Options button (three dots) in the upper right corner. Touch Adjust Date & Time or Adjust Location, enter the new information, and hit Adjust.

To change the date, time, or location of multiple photos at once, tap Select, touch the thumbnails of the images you want to change, and follow the steps above. Don’t worry if you change your mind, either—you can undo your metadata edits by tapping the More Options button, followed by Adjust Date & Time or Adjust Location, then Revert.

FAQ

The post How to edit photos on an iPhone—a detailed guide appeared first on Popular Science.

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You are more than a data point. The Opt Out is here to help you take your privacy back.

AMERICANS SPEND A LOT of time in cars. Whether you have a long commute, enjoy riding with friends as they drive around, or just like sitting in the parking lot for a bit of solo time, a car might feel like an extension of your home—an intimate space for you to sing out of tune or seek silence in the middle of your day.

Unfortunately, if you’re in a car that was manufactured within the past few years, that environment isn’t as private as you think it is. Carmakers have been adding sensors, cameras, and microphones to their vehicles to improve safety and usability, but these bits of tech are also collecting a hefty amount of data that the automotive industry and other companies are selling and sharing. And don’t think this applies only to car owners: Your privacy is also at risk if you rent a car or are simply sitting in a passenger seat.  

These newer cars know what you say, where you go, and possibly even whom you’re sleeping with and how often. It’s scary, but what’s scarier is that consumers currently have little choice but to consent. 

More than computers on wheels

Cars have been equipped with onboard computers and sensors for a while now. The tools’ applications have always been rather practical—letting you know when your fuel tank is close to empty or when your machine is due for an oil change, even allowing you to get full system diagnostics via Bluetooth. But as technology advanced, so did the role of electronics within every vehicle. Now cars can help you master parallel parking, respond to your voice commands, and even alert you to the presence of other drivers as you change lanes.

“A lot of this can be used as safety features, but [car companies] are not going to let the opportunity to collect data and make money off of that slip away. They’re not just doing it for safety,” says Jen Caltrider, program director for Privacy Not Included, a series of privacy-focused consumer product reviews, at the Mozilla Foundation. 

The same navigational tool that guides you to your destination, for example, is collecting your location data, and the sensors that show which passenger hasn’t buckled up can tell if you’re alone or not, where people are sitting, and if there’s any movement. Those capabilities alone provide hundreds, if not thousands of data points every day that go straight to the car manufacturer’s servers. It’s hard to tell if any of that information is encrypted or not, Caltrider says.

Other than what your car’s sensors and cameras track, manufacturers also learn about you from other sources. If you’re buying a car, the data harvesting starts with every visit to the dealership or the brand’s website, and it continues when you enlist the help of a bank or some other type of financial institution to pay for your car. Then, when you drive home in your new ride, manufacturers keep gathering data through the car’s app. You can choose not to use the app, but it’s likely you’ll lose access to any vehicle features that require it, such as remote ignition. And then there’s what Caltrider and her team call “connected services,” including insurance companies and navigation and entertainment apps like Here and Sirius XM, which have basically become data brokers in the vehicle data industry. The bad news is that it’s unclear exactly how the information flows, how it’s shared, and where and how it’s stored. 

Your car might know too much about you

In September, Caltrider and her research team at the Mozilla Foundation launched an in-depth analysis of the privacy policies of 25 car companies doing business in the US, including the most popular ones: Toyota, Ford, Chevrolet, and Honda. The results? The Mozilla team labeled cars the worst product category it has ever reviewed for privacy.

When you read the privacy policy for any app or device, it’s common to feel confused. Tech companies have been writing privacy policies for decades, and they generally include broad or vague terms that make you feel as if they care about your data—or at least don’t make it obvious that they don’t. Car privacy policies are different: way more explicit and entirely absurd.

“Car companies are moving into the tech company world,” Caltrider says. “But they’re so inexperienced at it and it really shows.”

One of the wildest privacy policies in the Mozilla Foundation’s report is Nissan’s, which requires users to consent to the collection of sensitive information including sexual orientation, sexual activity, health diagnosis data, and genetic information. The document also says this data can be sold or disclosed to third parties for targeted advertising. It’s not clear how exactly Nissan is collecting this data or if it’s currently capable of doing so, but the fact that you’re agreeing to all of this by simply buying a Nissan is problematic enough. 

And these requirements don’t affect only drivers and car owners, as consent is murky territory in the land of vehicle privacy policies. For one thing, cars don’t grant the same control over data collection that your phone does. Most of the time, car owners will see a request for permissions on a single screen that pops up when they first set up their new car, and they may not be able to go back to it and revoke those permissions later on. 

That also means there’s assumed consent from anybody who steps inside the vehicle. Privacy policies like that of Subaru make it clear that terms and conditions affect everyone on board, regardless of whether they’re the vehicle’s registered owner or not. This means that the company burdens Subaru owners with the responsibility of informing all their passengers about the privacy policy and assumes that people are agreeing to it just by stepping into the car. It’s a safe bet that no ride-share driver or courteous coworker has ever read you a long list of types of data collection you needed to consent to before they’d give you a ride home. 

Car manufacturers, vehicle data hubs, and other actors in the industry, like insurance companies, calm concerned drivers and passengers by promising that the data they collect and save is anonymized, meaning it cannot be traced back to specific people. While anonymizing data is a common practice that’s meant to protect individuals’ privacy, research has shown that it’s not always effective and that the owner of any anonymized data can be easily re-identified when the information is combined with other datasets. This is especially true when location data is involved, Caltrider says. 

As we’ve mentioned, targeted advertising is one of the main uses car companies and third parties have for collecting data with vehicles, but it’s not the only one. More than half of the manufacturers analyzed in the Mozilla Foundation’s report say they can “share your information with the government or law enforcement in response to a ‘request.’” This leaves a lot of room for abuse, as there are no details about whether this request can be as informal as a call or an email to the right person, or if it must be a powerful document, like a court order. 

Unlike with home security cameras, it’s hard to tell exactly how many times these companies have responded to requests from police and other law enforcement agencies. But a 2021 Forbes investigation revealed that both Customs and Border Protection (CBP) and Immigrations and Customs Enforcement (ICE) had been requesting information from three companies in the vehicle data industry, including General Motors, which is the parent company of Buick, Chevrolet, Cadillac, and GMC. 

Regulation is the answer

The automotive industry in the US is huge—it brought more than $156 billion to the US economy in 2022, and more than 75 percent of Americans own a car. You’d imagine that such a rich market would include several car brands privacy-savvy users can choose from, but the Mozilla Foundation report is categorical: When it comes to data protection, they’re all bad. 

This leaves people who need to buy a new car with little choice but to consent to data collection. And it leaves their passengers with even less choice. Because it’s not only luxury vehicles that come equipped with sophisticated sensors and cameras—classic sedans like the Toyota Corolla and family SUVs like the Ford Escape also have them. As much as we’d like to say there’s an individualistic DIY way to snatch back your privacy, there’s not. You’ll have to appeal to the powers that be.

“Get mad and contact your elected officials,” says Caltrider. “It’s past time the US had a strong federal privacy law.”

She also recommends not using your car’s app, but acknowledges that this is a bandage solution and might not be an option for some people. Some of the features people need, like being able to warm the car in cold weather by turning it on remotely, require the use of the software. 

Using our power as constituents and asking our elected officials for laws that protect our data is the best chance we have of taking back the intimacy we once found inside our vehicles. Car companies simply aren’t going to change on their own—just like tech companies, they have no incentives to do so.

“And it’s not like they have a long history of ethical behavior,” Caltrider says. “They have quite the opposite.”

Read more PopSci+ stories.

The post The Opt Out: Cars are spying on us, and we’re letting them appeared first on Popular Science.

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Video calls are a part of life now, but they can be a nightmare if your hardware is not up to par. You can upgrade your setup with a USB microphone (which can come in real handy if you’re putting up video calls on your TV) but if you’re a Mac user with an iPhone, you already have all you need. 

You can use your phone as a microphone when you make video calls from your Apple computer. This functionality is part of a feature called Continuity Camera, and it’s easy to set up. Any iPhone made after 2018 and running iOS 16 or newer will work, while all Macs running macOS Ventura or newer will fit the bill.  

How to set up Continuity Camera in macOS

To use your phone as a microphone on desktop video calls, you’ll need a Mac and an iPhone signed into the same iCloud account. 

Start by making your computer recognize your handheld device as an available sound source. On the Mac, click the Apple logo in the top-left corner of the screen and open System Settings. In the left-hand panel, go to Sound, and under Output and Input, click the Input tab. 

[Related: 7 tips and tricks to get more out of Apple’s newly updated Messages app]

You will see your iPhone as an audio source—select it. You’ll automatically see a full-screen pop-up on your phone with a couple of buttons. The Pause button on your phone to temporarily mute yourself when on a call, while Disconnect will completely remove your iPhone from your Mac’s audio inputs list. Don’t hit this button unless that’s what you want, otherwise you’ll have to go through the setup all over again. 

Once your computer recognizes your iPhone as a microphone, you can select it as the preferred audio source from most video call apps, including Zoom, Microsoft Teams, and Google Meet. 

• In Zoom, find the audio settings by clicking zoom.us in the upper left corner of your screen, then go to Preferences, and click the Audio tab. You can choose your iPhone under Microphone. 
• In Google Meet, click the three dots left of the hangup button in the bottom toolbar and go to Settings. You’ll be able to choose your iPhone in the Microphone options. 
• In Microsoft Teams, click the three-dot menu to the left of your name, click Settings, and head over to Devices. You can select your iPhone in the Microphone drop down menu. 

I’ve found using an iPhone as a microphone during video calls comes in very handy, particularly if I’m part of a group of people taking the call on a single device. I put the phone on the table, between everyone, while my laptop sits far enough so that we all fit into the camera frame. That usually means the microphone is too far away to pick up our voices, so the iPhone is extremely helpful—the speaker can even hold it while they talk and pass it along when they’re done, if necessary. 

[Related: 6 great features to try out in the iOS 17 public beta]

You can also use this feature to turn your laptop into a karaoke machine: your iPhone instantly becomes a wireless microphone. 

The post You can easily turn your iPhone into a Mac mic appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

If you’re splurging on a foldable phone like the Samsung Galaxy Z Fold 5, make sure you’re getting your money’s worth by exploring all the options and features the handset has to offer.

When you’ve got twice as many screens as normal, you get a lot more functionalities and flexibility: From quickly getting apps running side by side, to dragging and dropping texts and images between them.

1. Customize full screen apps

Unfortunately, not every Android app is developed to run on a screen as large as the main display of the Galaxy Z Fold 5. You might see black bars at the side of certain apps, as well as other odd behavior.

But you can fix this by going to Settings, then Display and Full screen apps. Pick an tool, and choose how you’d like it to show up. Full screen is the option to go for if you don’t want any black bars, though it may cause some distortion on certain apps.

2. Drag and drop between apps

With two apps open on screen, the Z Fold 5 is very adept at transferring content between them. Try tapping and holding an image in your web browser, for example, then dragging it across to an email you’re composing on the other side of the screen. The system will drop the picture right into the message—no copying, pasting, or saving required.

[Related: 7 Samsung phone hacks you need to try right now]

Note that this feature doesn’t work in every single app, but it will run smoothly in a lot them: Google’s Gmail and Chrome, Samsung’s Gallery and Notes, and Microsoft’s PowerPoint and Outlook, are some of the apps that support dragging and dropping.

3. Bring up the Flex panel

Flex mode is when you make a 90-degree angle with the Z Fold 5, so you have one half laying flat on a surface while the other is propped up straight. This allows certain apps to display different content on each side. Try opening the Camera app to see what we mean— you’ll see the shutter window at the top and the camera controls underneath.

There’s also the Flex panel, which will work with any app that supports multi-window use (most now do). Open Settings and then go to Advanced features > Labs > Flex mode panel, and enable the feature.

Now, when you turn your phone to landscape mode, you’ll get a little Flex panel icon (a gray diamond shape) in the lower left hand corner. Tap the icon to make the panel pop up: you’ll get a little touchpad to use with the app that’s on the top half of the screen, as well as quick access to certain features and the screenshot tool.

Try using the Flex panel with a web browser to see how useful it can be: You’ll be able to select links and elements on screen just as you would on a desktop operating system.

4. Get more content on screen

Make your way to Settings and go to Display and Screen layout and zoom. This page lets you change the size of the fonts and other elements on screen, which means you can get more content on your Z Fold 5 display at the same time—whether you’re working with one or multiple apps on the screen.

5. Switch seamlessly to the cover screen

By default, the Samsung Galaxy Z Fold 5 treats the larger main screen and the smaller cover screen separately, so apps that you’re using on the big display won’t automatically switch over to the outer display when you close the phone.

But if you would like to transfer apps seamlessly, open up Display from Settings, then tap on Continue apps on cover screen. You’ll be able to have this happen with all apps, or only with specific ones.

6. Change how multi window works

One of the key advantages of a foldable device like the Z Fold 5 is how easily you can get multiple apps and windows up alongside each other. Most of the time the Z Fold 5 handles this perfectly well on its own, but you can make some tweaks by heading to Settings, and then going to Advanced features and Multi window.

For example, you can enable Swipe for split screen. This feature will let you swipe in with two fingers from the left-hand edge of the main display to go from full screen mode to split screen mode. When you do, the Z Fold 5 will prompt you to choose another app to go alongside the one you’re already looking at.

7. Customize the taskbar

The taskbar at the bottom of the screen is crucial for getting around your foldable phone and the apps on it, so make sure it’s set up the way you want it. From Settings, pick Display and Taskbar, and choose how many recent apps you want to see at the bottom of the screen. You can also completely hide the taskbar, if you prefer.

[Related: Samsung Galaxy Z Flip4 review: Powerful vibes]

From the Display screen you can also select Navigation bar and choose whether you want to navigate your phone using gestures or the traditional back, home and recent buttons. If you’re not sure about the differences between these two options, you’ll see explanations for them on screen. Just keep in mind that using gestures will free up more space on the taskbar for you.

Note that the apps on the left of the taskbar are the same as those in the dock on the home screen. You can drag apps in and out of the dock if you want to change this selection.

The post 7 tips to get the most out of your Samsung Galaxy Z Fold 5 appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Your choice of search engine makes a big difference in the relevance (and privacy) of your search results. The first search engine, known as Archie, was developed by a student at McGill University and released in 1990. Today, there are more than 20 search engines that range from powerhouses like Google to lesser-known, more specialized options. 

Some search engines, such as Google, highlight their AI assistants, but the truth is that artificial intelligence has been behind search engines for years. But if you want an assistant to winnow search results, AI can help you get more relevant results. 

Even if you use a browser with a built-in search engine, you’re not beholden to it. You can, for example, add search engines to Google Chrome, giving you extra options when you want to perform photo searches or need extra privacy. Before you set your default search engine, though, consider how you use searches and how you feel about data privacy. These factors can direct you toward the top search engine for your inquiring mind.

1. Google

Google is the No. 1 search engine used today, handling more than 83 percent of searches, according to Statista. That number may rise or fall depending on the month, but needless to say, Google’s got the majority of the market when it comes to searches. 

Google is a robust search engine that powers sites like YouTube and integrates full-service features like Google Workspace. It’s much more than a search engine that allows you to gather everything from your latest curiosity to professional collaboration in one place. 

In February 2023, Google introduced Bard, an AI-powered search assistant. Search engines have used AI algorithms for years to identify patterns and customize search results and ads to individual users, but we’re entering a new age of heavy focus on AI. If you’re hoping Bard will hold up to OpenAI’s ChatGPT, though, it’s got a ways to go. That said, with the speed that AI adapts, it may not be long before Google has a leading assistant for generative as well as search purposes. 

This engine also gets high marks for the layout and variety of features like snippets, knowledge panels, and “people also ask” sections that can help you further refine results. On the downside, Google is a data hog and hangs onto your information to customize your experience. On one hand, you’ll see ads and results that are more relevant to your likes and preferences. On the other hand, privacy issues and data usage are real concerns. Some people find Google more than a little invasive.

2. Bing

If you’re looking for search engines other than Google, Bing is a top contender. Bing doesn’t have nearly Google’s market share, but it’s second in popularity worldwide. Microsoft created Bing in 2009 and has developed it into an impressive search engine, especially when it comes to the integration of AI. 

The Bing search results pages on Bing look eerily similar to Google’s. Many users may have a hard time telling the difference between the two. However, Bing’s image, video, and map searching abilities are some of the best, with the video and image features topping the market.

Bing also offers a rewards program, which earns you points every time you shop or search with Bing. After you’ve accumulated enough points, you can redeem them for gift cards or use them to donate to your favorite charity. You earn about five points per search, so doing a lot of online research could earn you a few bucks each month. 

Like Google, Bing collects data to customize the ads and searches that appear, which you may or may not appreciate. Consequently, Bing, like Google, might not be the best choice if privacy is your top concern.

3. DuckDuckGo

If all that data collection has your skin crawling, DuckDuckGo is worth a try. If you compare Google vs. DuckDuckGo vs. Bing, DuckDuckGo might not be as comprehensive, but it puts privacy over pure search power. It doesn’t store your data, track you, or collect cookies. You’ll still see ads, but they won’t be customized based on your searches. 

This search engine uses its own crawler and incorporates a few other search engines, but not Google. The company skips the monster search engine in an effort to provide a different user experience. It’s organized similarly to other search engines, with search categories at the top for images and videos that match your search.

[Related: 7 ways DuckDuckGo can help you find exactly what you need]

However, there’s only one results page per search, which is kind of nice if you’re easily overwhelmed by Google’s millions of results when all you’re doing is looking for the best WiFi routers. While DuckDuckGo isn’t set to dethrone Google, it’s gained a steady following with the privacy it offers.

4. Startpage

Startpage approaches search with a philosophy that’s similar to DuckDuckGo by focusing on security and privacy. It keeps prying eyes (and advertisers) from following your every virtual move by refusing to log your search history or save your personal data. That does mean some searches take a little longer. But some users find it worth it for the privacy that remains after they hit exit. 

Startpage uses Google to populate results, which means you’ll get robust results without the targeted ads. The uncluttered search page is a breath of fresh air from some of the larger engines, which can feel like ads are slapping you in the face while you scroll.

This engine also offers an Anonymous View that lets you visit pages without sharing any information about yourself. The process works by removing your IP address before sending the query. Startpage also offers the option of StartMail, a secure email platform.

5. Yahoo

Yahoo has been around since 1994 and uses Bing’s search engine to create results, so expect similar groupings, but it uses its own tech for certain searches, including trending ones. Though not as elegant as Bing or Google, Yahoo’s search page offers categories like weather, news, sports, and trends as well as access to Yahoo’s email service. Yahoo Finance is another big draw and provides quick access to the latest in what’s happening on the stock market. 

If you’re primarily after news and finance info, Yahoo’s got it in spades. You don’t even have to do a Yahoo web search to see the latest headlines with eye-catching photos to boot. Yahoo Maps is another place that sets this engine apart, thanks to an open-source Open Maps service. 

Yahoo also offers subscription-based services like Yahoo Finance Plus for even more insight into the market, investments, and companies on the rise. And, of course, it includes free features like Yahoo Mail.

The post The best search engines for finding results and securing your privacy appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Best overall		Mount-It! (MI-1772) Dual Monitor Arm		SEE IT	Full articulation and ease of use are what make this dual monitor arm stand out—especially if you don’t have a lot of desk space.
Best wall-mounted		Mountup Dual Monitor Wall Mount		SEE IT	The Mountup Dual Monitor Wall Mount conveys is a more affordable choice if you’re okay installing a more permanent dual monitor setup.
Best budget		VIVO Dual Monitor Desk Mount		SEE IT	VIVO’s Dual Monitor Desk Mount has more features than its modest price suggests.

With so many people working from home, many of us are furnishing our offices on our own dime or with a small work budget rather than requesting equipment at the office—and that can mean some real makeshift monitor stands, etc. Ergonomics, however, is just as important at home as in a cubicle. Using a dual-monitor stand, whether it’s something you put on your desk, a mounted monitor arm, or a bracket you mount on your wall, gives you the freedom to place your screens as you please for both maximum comfort and efficiency. There are many ways to optimize your two-monitor setup: The best dual-monitor stands ensure maximum flexibility, regardless of your approach.

• Best overall: Mount-It! (MI-1772) Dual Monitor Arm
• Best desk-mounted: Ergotron LX Dual Monitor Arm
• Best wall-mounted: Mountup Dual Monitor Wall Mount
• Best freestanding: ErGear Freestanding Dual Monitor Stand
• Best vertical: Hemudu HT05B-002 Dual Monitor Stand
• Best premium: Ergotron HX Desk Dual Monitor Arm
• Best budget: VIVO Dual Monitor Desk Mount

How we chose the best dual-monitor stands

To make our selections, I paired my own personal testing and experience with professional reviews and consumer feedback on Amazon. Our favorite monitor arms and monitor stands for dual-display setups provide a wide range of use cases, installation types, and prices. We also kept brand credibility in mind: Among monitor arm manufacturers, there are a handful of respected companies, and a very large number of lesser-known brands that often offer cheap prices but without the reputation or warranty to back them up.

Best dual-monitor stands: Reviews & Recommendations

So you have two monitors, and you want to put them up on a single adjustable stand. Now that you know the basics of what to look for, we have a few recommendations for the best dual-monitor stands, including desk-mounted, wall-mounted, and freestanding options. No matter your home office or PC gaming setup, there should be a decent option for you among these picks.

Best overall: Mount-It! (MI-1772) Dual Monitor Arm

SEE IT

Buy it used or refurbished: eBay

Why it made the cut: Mount-It’s monitor arm makes it very easy to maneuver two big displays without any friction.

Specs

• Mount type: Desk
• Compatible VESA mount sizes: 75mm x 75mm, 100mm x 100mm
• Adjustment mechanism: Gas-spring mount/free moving
• Weight range: 20lb per arm
• Display size range: 19-32 inches
• Available colors: Black, Silver

Pros

• Requires very little desk space
• Offers fine-grain control over the monitors
• Easy-to-move displays

Cons

• Price

We’ve had great success in our tests of Mount-It!’s single monitor arms, and feel very comfortable recommending this dual-display version to anyone who needs a lot of extra digital real estate to work. The arms can hold large, heavy displays, and each one can be twisted, tilted, and turned in several directions. This level of control can accommodate many work styles: video editors who want to see how their color grading tweaks are affecting the look of footage in real time, office workers who want to dedicate a vertically oriented monitor to their e-mail or messaging client, or gamers who want to monitor their Twitch chat.

Two features have impressed us with Mount-It!’s other monitor stands that apply to this one: The ease at which they allow you to control your monitor and how well their clamping mechanism keeps it firmly attached to your desk. We’ve had no issues moving a 27-inch monitor with one hand, and the ability to move your displays closer and further from your face comes in handy more frequently than you’d expect. If you don’t have a lot of physical desk space, this monitor’s clamp will be incredibly helpful. A monitor stand’s feet can take up a lot more room than you think, and having more area back for your go-to tech accessories is very useful.

Best desk-mounted: Ergotron LX Dual Monitor Arm

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Why it made the cut: The Ergotron LX Dual Monitor Arm is a slick desk mount that balances great build quality and the price that comes with it.

Specs

• Mount type: Desk
• Compatible VESA mount sizes: 75mm x 75mm, 100mm x 100mm
• Adjustment mechanism: Gas-spring mount/free moving
• Weight range: 7-20 lbs
• Display size range: 27 inches
• Available colors: Black/white/silver

Pros

• Superior build quality
• Plenty of ergonomic options
• Easy to install
• Lots of color options

Cons

• Expensive

When you think of monitor mounts, free-moving gas-spring arms typically come to mind. They offer smooth action that allows you to move your screens with precision easily. Though it costs more than many other brands, Ergotron’s LX Dual Monitor Arm dual-monitor arm has a higher quality that justifies the price. Plus, it comes with a 10-year warranty, so you know the company stands behind its product. The Ergotron LX Dual Monitor Arm doesn’t do anything flashy. It just does the basics very well.

Best wall-mounted: Mountup Dual Monitor Wall Mount

SEE IT

Buy it used or refurbished: eBay

Why it made the cut: The Mountup Dual Monitor Wall Mount looks sharp, and strikes a balance between price and features.

Specs

• Mount type: Wall mount
• Compatible VESA mount sizes: 75mm x 75mm, 100mm x 100mm
• Adjustment mechanism: Gas-spring arms/free moving
• Weight range: 3.3 – 17.6 lbs
• Display size range: Up to 32-inch
• Available colors: Chrome/Black

Pros

• Great price
• Very adjustable
• Detachable VESA plates

Cons

• Requires tools to install
• Requires brick, concrete, or wood anchor

If you’re ready to commit to a specific home, spot, and desk setup, you can save a lot of money on a really great dual-monitor arm with the Mountup Dual Monitor Wall Mount. It looks sharp, carries a lot of weight, and costs less than half as much as our desk-mounted pick. That said, this is a heavy dual-monitor arm. Not only do you need to attach it to the wall, the manufacturer specifically calls for you to anchor it on a brick, concrete, or wooden stud. Drywall alone may not hold it up. That’s a huge limitation, but if you have the right setup, this is arguably the most stable way to mount your monitors.

Best freestanding: ErGear Freestanding Dual Monitor Stand

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Buy it used or refurbished: eBay

Why it made the cut: If you don’t want to mount your monitors on arms, ErGear makes a more conventional dual-monitor stand that’s sturdy and offers strong adjustability.

Specs

• Mount type: Desktop stand
• Compatible VESA mount sizes: 75mm x 75mm, 100mm x 100mm
• Adjustment mechanism: Pole-adjusted height/static arm
• Weight range: Up to 22 lbs
• Display size range: 17-32 inches
• Available colors: Black

Pros

• Glass base
• High weight tolerence
• No “install” time
• Price

Cons

• Fewer placement/ergonomic options
• Base takes up space on your desk

We often recommend desk-clamping or wall-mounted monitor arms for their great adjustability and their ability to free up desk space. However, not all of us can use those options: We can’t all drill holes in our walls, and some desks aren’t clamp-friendly. Whether your options are limited, or you simply don’t want to install anything, a desktop or “freestanding” monitor stand is the way to go.

ErGear’s Dual Monitor Stand features a static base column with adjustable spokes for both monitors. It is as adjustable as a dual-monitor arm, but you can still adjust height, tilt, swivel, and rotation to get very good, ergonomically mind positioning. It’s all held down by a large, sturdy black glass base that has enough room under it to route some cables. While it doesn’t free up as much space as a desk-mounted stand, putting both of your monitors on a single stand still opens up your workstation quite a bit.

Best vertical: Hemudu HT05B-002 Dual Monitor Stand

SEE IT

Buy it used or refurbished: eBay

Why it made the cut: The Hemudu HT05B-002 allows you to set up a vertical stacking configuration without sacrificing stability.

Specs

• Mount type: Desktop stand
• Compatible VESA mount sizes: 50mm x 50mm, 75mm x 75mm, 100mm x 100mm
• Adjustment mechanism: Static mount
• Weight range: 44 lbs per arm
• Display size range: 13-34 inches
• Available colors: Black

Pros

• Can handle very large and heavy displays
• Has plenty of ergonomic options
• Easy to move

Cons

• Fewer adjustment options compared to free-moving arms
• Still takes up desk space

Ergonomics are, ultimately, the core advantage of using a dual-monitor arm. Putting your displays on a single, adjustable mount allows you to position your displays to reduce the number of neck movements you have to do in your daily work. No matter what you do, though, putting two widescreen displays right next to each other ensures that you will need to turn your head to focus on one screen or the other. Suppose you are the kind of person who uses one display most of the time and only occasionally glances at screen number two. In that case, a stacking monitor stand, which mounts the two monitors in a single column, might be useful. Craning your neck to look up isn’t great, ergonomically speaking, but if you only look at that second monitor every once in a while, it may lead to a net reduction in strain.

If you want to set up a vertical stack, we recommend a desktop mount like the Hemudu HT05B-002, rather than a desk-mounted one. With a vertical setup, you’re putting a lot more stress on the stand arm, and a flat stand handles that extra weight better. The HT05B-002 can handle two 34-inch, 44-lb. screens. It features removable VESA plates for easy installation as well. A wide base limits your desk real estate gains, but you can rest easy knowing that the stand will support your monitors’ weight(s). It’s a small consolation, but the feet under the base raise up enough to fit some of your other cabling underneath.

Best premium: Ergotron HX Desk Dual Monitor Arm

SEE IT

Buy it used or refurbished: eBay

Why it made the cut: If you’re willing to pay a premium for a reliable brand, the Ergotron HX is as sturdy as they come.

Specs

• Mount type: Desk-mounted
• Compatible VESA mount sizes: 75mm x 75mm, 100mm x 100mm (More available with optional bracket adapter kit)
• Adjustment mechanism: Gas-spring arms/free moving
• Weight range: 35 lbs per arm
• Display size range: Up to 32-inch
• Available colors: White, Silver, Black

Pros

• Killer looks
• 15-year warranty
• A trusted name in ergonomics

Cons

• Very expensive

It’s easy to find a monitor arm for under $100, but they’re almost always a gamble. You’re buying a relatively untested design from a brand with little to no reputation, which can be a risky proposition with a dual-monitor stand that holds and protects two pieces of equipment that cost hundreds or even thousands of dollars. If you have a pair of very expensive displays, you may want to consider spending a similarly luxurious amount on your stand. 

Ergotron is one of the oldest and most reliable names in the monitor stand game, and its HX dual-monitor arm is a deluxe desk-mounted stand. It has some of the flourishes from our other top picks, including a 15-year warranty and detachable VESA mounts for easy mounting. It also features a unique handlebar beneath the screens that allows you to adjust both displays at once. Those things are all just gravy, though. In this case, you’re spending a lot of extra money on the peace of mind that comes with buying a trusted luxury brand.

Best budget: VIVO Dual Monitor Desk Mount

SEE IT

Buy it used or refurbished: eBay

Why it made the cut: VIVO managed to make its dual-monitor stand comparable to more expensive models without many compromises.

Specs

• Mount type: Desk
• Compatible VESA mount sizes: Gas-spring arms/free moving
• Adjustment mechanism: 75mm x 75mm, 100mm x 100mm
• Weight range: up to 22lb per arm
• Display size range: 13-30 inches
• Available colors: Black, White

Pros

• Gives you a fair amount of control over your monitors
• Won’t take up a lot of room on your desk
• Price

Cons

• No automatic height adjustment

If you’ve invested most of your home office improvement budget on your new displays, it makes sense to save a little bit on a dual-monitor stand. This model from VIVO has most of the features found in our best overall pick, but at a quarter of the price. Each monitor can be tilted and twisted individually, but you can only adjust their height by loosening and tightening a screw on the back. Both monitors have to be set at the same height, which may matter depending on the type of work you do. This stand works with monitors up to 30-inches wide, but VIVO offers a model that can handle displays up to 32 inches if necessary.

We like monitor arms that can be clamped onto a desk rather than sit on top of it because of the space savings, which is why VIVO’s is especially appealing to us. We’re also impressed that it can control monitors up to 22 pounds, which means the arms on this stand are stronger than the ones on our best overall pick. If the lack of height adjustability isn’t a dealbreaker, there’s no reason to spend more money on a dual-monitor stand.

Things to consider before buying one of the best dual-monitor stands

Even if you know exactly which dual-monitor stand or arm to buy, it helps to know a bit about the basic mechanics involved. Different stands require varying amounts of installation at setup, and not every monitor can be mounted on a third-party stand. Understanding these basics will help you pick the right stand for your displays, and ensure you’re ready to install your stand (or call someone who can.)

Why should I use a dual-monitor stand?

There are many reasons to mount your monitors, ranging from purely cosmetic to enabling better ergonomics. The stands with PC monitors vary widely in construction quality, appearance, and features. Some stands take up tons of desk space without offering any additional utility. Others may not allow you to adjust them properly, forcing you to twist or crane your neck to look at them, which could lead to long-term strain. And some of them may just look ugly. When you buy a monitor for its great specs, which you should, it potentially opens the door for you to end up with a huge, ugly stand that gives you a sore neck. Luckily, most monitors allow you to remove the actual display from its stand and mount them on a third-party stand. 

A monitor stand, whether it sits on your desk, clamps on at edge of it, or bolts onto the wall behind it, can solve all of these issues at once, giving you the ability to place your monitor exactly where you want it, reclaiming your desk space for more useful tools, and swapping out what may be garish design for something more subtle and clean.

Stand, clamp, or wall mount?

When moving to a dual-monitor stand, you must choose between a conventional desktop form factor, a clamping desk-mounted design, or a wall-mounted one. Often, picking one versus another comes down to what kind of desk you have, how important it is to reclaim desk space, and the likelihood that you’ll need to move your setup.

If you have a flat desk with an edge or lip, we like clamping monitor stands that clamp to the rear edge of your desk. They’re sturdy, highly adjustable, and easy to install or remove without damaging the desk. (Some offer an option to drill a hole into your desk as an anchor, but it isn’t necessarily mandatory.)

That said, if you have a glass desk, an executive-style desk, or something with lots of cable guides built into the back, a clamp might not be a good fit. In most cases, there’s just no spot to install the clamp. With glass, it could literally shatter the desk. In those cases, a desktop stand makes more sense. Though you won’t get as much space back, a desktop with a dual-monitor stand still consolidates two screens onto a single stand, reclaiming some desk real estate. Also, desktop stands are very sturdy, so it makes sense to use them for larger, heavier screens.

Finally, there’s the wall mount. Whether you use a set of monitor arms or a bracket similar to what you’d use when mounting a TV, the wall mount is an extremely sturdy choice but requires serious installation. To install it, you’ll need to find a stud, drill some holes, and bolt your monitor stand to your wall. Once you install it, your monitor stand isn’t going anywhere, which means your desk setup isn’t going anywhere, either. That lack of flexibility makes it a very niche choice. You don’t want to have to spackle and repaint your walls every time you think your desk would look better over by the window.

Before you buy: Make sure all your monitors have VESA mounts

If you peek around the back of most computer monitors, you’ll notice that the stand for your display probably attaches via four screws in a square configuration. This is a standard configuration maintained by the Video Electronics Standards Association, commonly known as VESA, meant to make stands as close to universal as possible so users can buy new stands easily. 

VESA mounts can come in many sizes, but most PC monitors fall into one of two options, 75mm x 75mm or 100mm x 100 mm. That makes everyone’s life easier: All of our picks support both sizes, as should most third-party monitor stands of any shape and size. That said, you should still double-check your monitors’ specs to see VESA mount sizes you’ll need before buying a dual-monitor stand, if only to make sure that your monitor can be mounted at all. Some very cheap monitors (and a few very expensive ones) build their monitors permanently attached to their stands.

Double-check the weight of both of your displays

Monitors are heavy and expensive. Before mounting them, you should ensure your stand can support their weight. Make sure that your monitors are within the stands’ specified weight limit—don’t risk going above or below whatever limits the manufacturer sets. Most monitor manufacturers include the weight of the displays both with and without stands on their product pages. You have a little wiggle room on the size of the monitor, but consider the weight tolerances to be inviolable laws of nature in this case, or risk breaking hundreds or even thousands of dollars worth of monitors.

FAQs

Final thoughts on the best dual-monitor stands

• Best overall: Mount-It! (MI-1772) Dual Monitor Arm
• Best desk-mounted: Ergotron LX Dual Monitor Arm
• Best wall-mounted: Mountup Dual Monitor Wall Mount
• Best freestanding: ErGear Freestanding Dual Monitor Stand
• Best vertical: Hemudu HT05B-002 Dual Monitor Stand
• Best premium: Ergotron HX Desk Dual Monitor Arm
• Best budget: VIVO Dual Monitor Desk Mount

With so many options for mounting your monitors and such a wide range of prices, the best dual-monitor stands are a very affordable and useful upgrade for anyone using two monitors. Whether you’re rocking one display in landscape mode and one in portrait mode, pairing an ultrawide monitor with a standard one, mounting to a desk or a wall, there are dynamic stands for every type of home setup.

Why trust us

Popular Science started writing about technology more than 150 years ago. There was no such thing as “gadget writing” when we published our first issue in 1872, but if there was, our mission to demystify the world of innovation for everyday readers means we would have been all over it. Here in the present, PopSci is fully committed to helping readers navigate the increasingly intimidating array of devices on the market right now.

Our writers and editors have combined decades of experience covering and reviewing consumer electronics. We each have our own obsessive specialties—from high-end audio to video games to cameras and beyond—but when we’re reviewing devices outside of our immediate wheelhouses, we do our best to seek out trustworthy voices and opinions to help guide people to the very best recommendations. We know we don’t know everything, but we’re excited to live through the analysis paralysis that internet shopping can spur so readers don’t have to.

The post The best dual-monitor stands of 2023 appeared first on Popular Science.

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If you’re an Apple user, you probably have an iCloud account and several devices filled with your personal information. Whenever high-profile data leaks and hacks hit the headlines, you may think that Apple’s known dedication to security will keep you safe, but that’s no reason to get complacent. There’s plenty you can do on your own to ensure it’s extra-hard for people to snatch up your data.

Once you’ve taken some time to enable two-factor authentication, strengthen your passwords, and work through the security tips listed below, you may want to stay in the same headspace and continue with other important accounts. For starters, check out our guides to locking down your Facebook and Google accounts.

Apple security basics

You should be putting up strong barriers at every door into your Apple world. That means a long, unique password on your MacBook, a lengthy PIN on your iPhone, and a long, unique password for your iCloud account. Passwords should contain a mix of lowercase and uppercase letters, plus special characters and numbers, to make them as difficult to crack as possible. (And no, “Passw0rd!” isn’t good enough.) Don’t base your passwords on your address, birthday, or pet’s name, either—a savvy attacker might research this information in order to get past your defenses. Finally, avoid using the same password for both your Mac and iCloud. That way, even if one gets cracked, the other still has some protection.

[Related: All the ways you can customize your iPhone lock screen]

One of your best defenses will be your common sense. Hackers often trick people into revealing their login details, rather than running a sophisticated brute force attack. Be wary of phishing links in emails and on social media, and be suspicious of any that immediately ask you to log in with your Apple ID credentials.

When it comes to Apple device security, Apple is your best ally. Its operating systems (macOS, iOS, and iPadOS) all encrypt data by default. This means nothing can be pulled from your iPhone, iPad, or MacBook without the right password or PIN code.

Enable Apple’s two-factor authentication feature

Apple accounts can be better protected with two-factor authentication (TFA). This feature is available for most major online accounts and means that entering your account will require an extra code beyond your username and password.

In the case of Apple’s two-factor authentication, attempting to log in will trigger a message sent to your phone number or a code that displays on another device associated with your Apple ID. For example, if you’re setting up a new iPhone, you’ll see the code on your existing MacBook.

To turn on two-factor authentication on iOS or iPadOS, open the Settings app and tap your name at the top of the screen. Then choose Password & Security to find the two-factor authentication option. On macOS Ventura or later, click the Apple menu, head to System Settings, and click your name. Then click Sign-In & Security and hit Turn On next to Two-Factor Authentication. Follow the instructions to set everything up.

[Related: 7 sweet new features in macOS Ventura]

If you’re using macOS Monterey or an older version of Apple’s operating system, you’ll find the TFA settings by opening the Apple menu, choosing System Preferences, selecting Apple ID followed by Password & Security, and turning the feature on from that screen.

Once you’ve logged into a device with your Apple ID, password, and TFA code, that device will be marked as trusted, which means you won’t need to log in using TFA again. It’s therefore important that you do have passwords, PIN codes, and other types of protection on your computers and phones to prevent unauthorized access.

Manage Apple security in your web browser

To configure other parts of your security setup, open your Apple ID account page in a web browser. Make sure your registered email addresses and trusted phone numbers are up to date and secure, because you might need them if you ever lose access to your account.

Under the Devices heading (in the menu on the left), you can see the iPhones, iPads, and computers associated with your account. Use this opportunity to remove any devices you no longer use or don’t recognize. It’s a good idea to check this list fairly regularly, just in case your account has been compromised or you’re signed in somewhere you shouldn’t be.

Any web browser on any computer will also let you access the iCloud suite of web apps and services. If you’re on a public computer or a machine you share with others, be sure to sign out after you’ve finished. Some browsers may ask to remember your password. You can allow this on your personal computer, but make sure that something else will prevent a guest from accessing the browser. For example, set up a user account password for getting into the operating system.

When you’re on iCloud.com, you can also sign out of all browsers where you’re currently signed in. To do this, click your Apple ID avatar in the top right corner, hit iCloud Settings, select Sign Out Of All Browsers, and click Sign Out. This way, you’ll ensure no one’s using your iCloud account with any other browser except the one you have open.

Other Apple security tips

The app stores Apple has built into iOS, iPadOS, and macOS do a very good job of keeping you safe from dangerous software and viruses. On your phone or tablet, you shouldn’t have to install anything from outside the iOS App Store. On your computer, however, you may need to venture outside the walls of the macOS App Store every now and again. If you do, read user reviews and web write-ups to double-check the safety of any program you install.

As for your devices’ physical security, you definitely want to hope for the best, but plan for the worst. So take the time now to consider what you’ll do if, despite all your precautions, your iPhone, iPad, or computer are compromised. We recommend turning on the Find My feature on your devices. This will let you locate and remotely wipe your device via the web if it falls into the wrong hands, but if you’ve simply lost your tech inside your own home, you can use Find My to get it to play a sound.

On iOS or iPadOS, tap your name in the settings to find the Find My app, and on macOS Ventura or later navigate through Apple menu > System Settings > Privacy & Security > Location Services > Find My. If you’re using macOS Monterey or earlier, you’ll need Apple menu > System Preferences > Apple ID > iCloud > Find My Mac > Allow.

[Related: How to turn off your location on an iPhone]

Meanwhile, if you’ve gone all-in with your Apple products and got yourself an Apple Watch, you can use the wearable gadget as a secure way to unlock macOS, saving you the trouble of typing out a password each time. To set up the feature on macOS Ventura or later, open the Apple menu, click System Settings, hit Login Password, and choose Use Apple Watch to unlock apps and your Mac. On macOS Monterey or older, work through Apple menu > System Preferences > Security & Privacy > General to find the same Apple Watch unlock setting.

This story has been updated. It was originally published in 2017.

The post It’s a great day to secure your Apple and iCloud accounts appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Internet access, whether wired or wireless, has become one of the most precious commodities of our time. But that leaves us singularly unprepared when we lose that access—such as when we travel to the signal-free middle of nowhere or a storm knocks out power to our home router. There are plenty of ways you can avoid being completely cut off from your work and entertainment, though, and using Google Chrome offline is one of them.

The catch, however, is that you’ll have to set up offline access before your internet connection dies. We recommend activating the settings below as you read this article, so you don’t forget and regret it later. When you’re done, consider poking around the settings within your other most-used programs to see what offline features they offer, or download some of the best offline apps. Then, no matter what type of computer you’re on, Chromebook or not, you won’t have to completely give up when those WiFi bars disappear.

Access Gmail offline

If you use Gmail in your browser, you can get into your inbox without a web connection. While you’re still online, simply click the cog icon in the top right, select See all settings, open the Offline tab, and check the box next to Enable offline mail. Doing so will sync recent emails to your computer’s hard drive. Unfortunately, this function can’t make new emails magically appear when your internet is down. But it will let you browse through messages you’ve already cached, and compose new replies that Gmail will automatically send when you get back online.

Keep working

Google Drive and the three online apps within it—Docs, Sheets, and Slides—have an offline mode you can activate when there’s no internet available. You’ll need to set it up before you lose your web connection: From the main Google Drive interface, click the cog icon in the top right, followed by Settings, and finally tick the box under Offline.

This will sync your recent documents, spreadsheets, and presentations to the local storage on your hard drive. It will let you create new documents and edit existing ones in your Drive account, although you won’t be able to access big files like videos and music (unless you download them separately first). Offline Chrome will save all your changes to disk, just as they would normally be saved to the web. Once your browser detects an internet connection again, it will sync everything to bring your files back up to date.

Check your schedule

Beyond Gmail and Google Drive, Google has made most of its web apps work offline—including Google Calendar. You can’t create new events when you’re offline, but you can browse your schedule and respond to invitations. Google Calendar will send those responses when you’re back online.

Stay entertained

It doesn’t matter whether your favorite music or video streaming service works offline—Chrome can play downloaded files in many popular formats, including MP3 tracks and MP4 movies. So as long as you saved your preferred entertainment options to your device ahead of time, you can rock out or kick back no matter what your internet connection looks like. Just drag a file from your hard drive into an empty Chrome window, and it will start to play.

If you’re looking for a place to start, the platforms you use want to keep you engaged and are more than willing to help. Both Spotify and Netflix, for example, have detailed instructions for how you can access their content without internet access. Once you’re all stocked up, you can enjoy accessing the files via Chrome.

Catch up on your reading

Losing your internet connection gives you a great opportunity to catch up on all that reading you’ve been meaning to get around to. But if all that reading happens to be on the web, you’re stuck. The free Pocket Chrome extension can help. Open an article that you’d like to read in Chrome, and Pocket will let you save it for later perusal, when you have more time to do so.

Play games

You can even enjoy certain online games while Chrome’s offline. From the physics-based puzzler Cut the Rope to the all-time classic FreeCell Solitaire, you should be able to find something to while away the time until the internet returns. As long as install your favorite games while you still have internet access, you’ll be good to go.

The post 6 ways you can use Google Chrome offline appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

How many of the apps on your phone are you actually using on a regular basis? It’s not uncommon to have a bunch of apps you installed and eventually forgot about, each of them taking up precious space on your device and making it more difficult to find the tools you actually want to use.

Apple and Google know about their users’ struggles with unused apps, and they’ve built features into iOS and Android to try and handle it. You should know how your phone’s operating system handles forgotten apps behind the scenes, how these features benefit you, and how you can disable them if you want to.

How to offload unused apps on iOS

Apple’s iPhones have a feature called Offload Unused Apps that can help you with your app-hoarding problem, and it’s been around since iOS 11 launched in 2017. It’s sort of a middle ground between having an app installed and uninstalled: The bulk of the app is gone, but data and documents relating to it—like your settings and any files you’ve created in it—remain on your phone. The app icon will also stay on your home screen, with a small arrow next to its name, and you can fully reinstall it by tapping this icon.

This feature is off by default, but you can enable it by opening the Settings app and selecting General, iPhone Storage, and Enable next to the Offload Unused Apps heading. It will then run automatically, so you might notice apps you haven’t opened in a while being offloaded in the background without any input from you. You can follow the same steps to turn the feature off.

[Related: All the ways iOS lets you edit your lock screen]

On the iPhone storage screen, you’ll see how much space you can free up by offloading apps, but Apple doesn’t offer a whole lot of detail about how this works—how long an app has to remain unused for to qualify, for example, or whether your iPhone starts offloading apps once you reach a threshold of remaining storage. You’ll have to try it to see if you like it, but remember that you can easily restore offloaded apps if it isn’t for you.

If you don’t want iOS to automatically offload apps, you can do so manually and individually whenever you want. From the same iPhone Storage screen in Settings, scroll down to the app you want to offload and tap on it. Then choose Offload App on the next screen to partially remove it from your phone. The same screen will let you reinstall the app if and when you need to, or delete it entirely.

Offloading unused apps on Android

Android’s built-in feature for managing unused apps is called Auto Archive. It’s still relatively new, and it works a lot like the offloading iOS does: Auto Archive will free up to nearly 60 percent of an app’s storage space, without removing the app itself or your data from the device, Google says. After being archived, the app will still be there, but a lot of its data and files will have been removed until you need it.

Auto Archive isn’t enabled by default, but Android will prompt you to turn the feature on if you try to install an app and there’s not enough room left on your phone. If this happens, tap Turn on to enable Auto Archive and install the app, or No thanks if you want to try to clear some space manually.

[Related: 9 hidden Android features you’re missing out on]

You can also enable Auto Archive from the Play Store app on your phone: Tap your Google account avatar (top right), then choose Settings and General to find the Automatically archive apps toggle switch. Even when this is on, the process only kicks in when your device starts to run low on available storage.

Google isn’t specific about which apps it archives first, but “infrequently used apps” are apparently first in line. There’s no option to manually archive individual apps, as there is on iOS, but you can wipe all the data stored by an app. To do so, open Settings and head to Apps, tap on an app, choose Storage and cache, and hit Clear storage. Depending on the app, the data you remove could include messages, emails, or playlists that have been synced to your phone.

The post One quick way to automatically save space on your phone appeared first on Popular Science.

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Most modern homes have quite a few WiFi-connected gadgets trying to access the web at the same time. This usually results in strained broadband connections, especially when it comes to demanding activities like online gaming or video streaming. 

To help you manage the load, some routers (like those manufactured by Google, Netgear, Eero, and many others) offer a feature called Quality of Service (QoS). In simple terms, it lets you prioritize certain devices and types of traffic on your WiFi network, so they’re first in line for a high-speed connection whenever bandwidth becomes limited. 

Your router manufacturer may give it a different name, but a quick dig into the manual or an online search should tell you whether or not your particular device offers QoS. If it does, it’s worth getting familiar with the feature and what it can do, as prioritizing devices on your WiFi network can help reduce buffering times and avoid dropped connections when it’s most important.

What is Quality of Service, and how does it work?

The term “quality of service” has been around for decades, and it applies to all kinds of networks. When used in relation to your home’s WiFi, it means marking certain devices or types of activity as being more important than others. Whenever your router is chopping up your WiFi into individual slices, these marked gadgets and apps get first dibs.

Imagining pie slices is one way to think about QoS. Without it, everything connected to your router gets a similarly sized slice: Your PlayStation 5, the laptop the kids are using, the smart TV in the living room, and so on. When you enable QoS, you can give out bigger slices to that important Zoom call. Consequently, less important tasks, like those Windows updates downloading in the background, get smaller slices.

That said, using QoS to prioritize devices on your WiFi network doesn’t necessarily guarantee that those gadgets will always get a healthy, robust internet connection. It also doesn’t mean that the less important hardware on your network will slow to a crawl. A lot of what actually happens depends on the internet speed in your home.

[Related: 6 router settings you should change right now]

Video calls, online gaming, and streaming video tend to be first in line when you enable QoS. Other online tasks, from checking email to downloading updates, usually get reduced priority. 

Ultimately, how you use QoS is up to you, but your router will determine what type of control you get and how much. Some routers let you prioritize certain devices, such as gaming consoles, while others let you prioritize types of internet traffic, such as video calls. Some let you do both. If you’re shopping for a router upgrade, this is definitely a spec you should look out for.

If you have a Google Nest Wi-Fi mesh networking setup at home, for example, you can open up the Google Home app on your phone, tap Favorites, then Wifi, and choose Devices to see a list of the gadgets using your network. Select the device you want to prioritize, tap Prioritize device, decide how long you want it to receive VIP treatment, and hit Save to finish. Keep in mind that you can only give priority to one device at a time.

You can also use the Google Home app to choose the types of activity you want the network to put first. First, tap Wi-Fi, hit the cog icon to open Settings, and choose Preferred activities to tell the network what to prioritize. Your choices will include Video conferencing and Gaming, and the router will continue to give your picks bigger slices of the WiFi pie until you turn them off again.

[Related: What to do when your device won’t connect to WiFi]

If you’ve got a Netgear router, on the other hand, you’ll need to open a web browser, head to routerlogin.com, and log in using your router’s admin credentials (check the documentation that came with the router if you’re not sure what these are). From there, head to Advanced, Setup, and QoS setup to start making some changes.

Pick Upstream QoS, then Setup QoS rule, and finally Add Priority Rule. You can choose Online Gaming to make sure your games stay as lag-free as possible, Applications to prioritize a particular web app, Ethernet LAN port to specify a device connected to a router port, or MAC Address to single out a device hooked up to the network via WiFi.

This story has been updated. It was originally published in 2021.

The post How to give more WiFi to the devices that need it the most appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Gaming might not be the primary reason you bought your Apple TV 4K box, but it’s a nice extra benefit—there’s a huge selection of games you can play on the device.

The main advantage of doing this is that the connected TV screen is much larger than the one on your iPhone or iPad, and if you’ve already bought games on these mobile devices, you won’t have to pay again to play them on the Apple TV 4K.

For more advanced and involved gameplay, you can even hook up a Bluetooth controller, giving you a true console-like experience, even if the selection of games doesn’t quite match the top-tier titles on the PlayStation 5 and Xbox Series X/S.

Getting started

For starters, you need a physical Apple TV 4K device to play games on a connected television. That means this article doesn’t apply to the Apple TV app you might have on your smart TV, or on a streaming dongle you’ve connected to it. The Apple TV app is for movies and shows only, while the Apple TV 4K box is for movies, shows, music, photos, and games.

Your Apple TV 4K box is already set up and ready to play games—though it’s always worth checking that you’re running the very latest tvOS software, which you can do through Settings > System > Software Updates > Update Software. When up to date, you’ll have the latest bug fixes and performance optimizations installed, so the games you pick should run as smoothly as possible.

It’s also worth checking that the Apple TV 4K is outputting video at the best possible quality: 4K resolution, with HDR, at a 60 hertz refresh rate. You can do this via Settings > Video and Audio > Format, though the available formats you see will depend on the TV you’ve connected your Apple box to.

How to find games for the Apple TV 4K

You shouldn’t have any trouble finding games to play: Open the App Store (the icon showing a white “A” on a blue background) from the home screen, then scroll across to Games to see what’s available. The store will only show you games that will work on the Apple TV 4K, so there’s no danger of installing something that’s incompatible. Scroll across to Purchased to see games you’ve bought and installed on other Apple devices.

If you subscribe to Apple Arcade for $4.99 a month, you get access to an additional pool of more than 200 games. To find them, you can switch to the Arcade tab in the App Store or use the Apple Arcade shortcut on the home screen (an icon showing a white joystick on a red background). Select any game to see details about it, including the category it’s in and the age rating attached to it.

[Related: 14 tips for your Apple TV 4K]

Because your Apple TV 4K box is connected to a display far bigger than the one on your smartphone or tablet, the games that work best will be those that make full use of that extra screen space. If you need inspiration, the games we’ve enjoyed on the Apple TV 4K include the endless scroller Alto’s Odyssey ($4.99), the addictive puzzler Donut County ($4.99), and the classic car-dodging adventure Crossy Road (free with in-app purchases).

How to add a game controller to the Apple TV 4K

As you make your way around the App Store and Apple Arcade portal, you’ll notice certain games say a controller is required, others say a controller is optional, and some don’t say anything at all. For simple single-tap games like the aforementioned Alto’s Odyssey, for example, you can play using just the Apple TV 4K remote.

For more advanced titles, you’ll need to connect a controller like the one you might use on your PS5 or Xbox Series X. Just about any standard gamepad will do, as long as it supports Bluetooth—including the ones that came with your PlayStation or Xbox. If you’re going to buy one, though, make sure it supports the Apple TV 4K.

To connect the controller, you’ll need to make sure your controller is in pairing mode (its instructions or a quick web search will tell you how to do this if you’re not sure), then go to Settings > Remotes and Devices > Bluetooth. The controller should appear on this list, but if not, follow the How to Pair Game Controllers link for extra help.

Play Apple TV 4K games from an iPhone, iPad, or Mac

If you prefer playing a game on your iPhone or iPad, but still want to take advantage of the larger screen your Apple TV 4K is connected to, you can beam them over from your mobile device—as long as everything’s on the same WiFi network. This uses Apple’s AirPlay protocol for streaming video and audio, which is supported by most Apple devices—it’s not quick enough for super-fast gameplay, but it works fine for slower-paced games.

On the iPhone or iPad you’re using, swipe down from the top right corner of the screen to bring up the Control Center, then tap the Screen Mirroring icon (two overlapping rectangles). Choose your Apple TV 4K from the list, and the display will be duplicated on your TV. This is a good way to play games that aren’t officially supported by the Apple TV 4K, and you can always add a controller to your iPhone or iPad too.

[Related: 24 iPhone settings that feel like secrets]

If you’re on a Mac, click the Control Center icon on the menu bar (it looks like two toggle switches), choose Screen Mirroring, and select the Apple TV 4K box you want to connect to. Click Screen Mirroring again and choose Use As Separate Display to have the Apple TV 4K act as a second monitor, where you can display any games that can run on your Mac, while still controlling them with your computer. Click Screen Mirroring and the name of the Apple TV 4K to break the connection.

The post Your Apple TV 4K is secretly good for video games appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Despite being the central hub for most of our work, email can be a real productivity killer. Everyone is vying for your attention at all hours of the day, and that little unread icon taunts you until you give in and re-open your inbox to see what’s happening. This, of course, interrupts the flow of your actual job.

I’m a slave to the notification icon as much as anyone. In an ideal world, I’d learn to keep pushing forward and deal with email when I actually have time between other tasks. But that’s not as easy as it sounds. So instead of changing my own behavior, I’ve learned some Gmail tricks that will help me spend less time emailing and more time working.

Pause your Gmail inbox to stop the barrage of notifications

Yes, you could just close your email tab, but chances are you actually need access to some messages for work. In that case, you need a Gmail add-on called Inbox Pause. Install the extension in your browser, and you’ll see a big Pause button on Gmail’s left sidebar—click it whenever you need to stop incoming messages. Don’t worry, you won’t miss anything, and you can choose to let certain senders through if you’re expecting something urgent.

[Related: 9 advanced Gmail searches that will dig up stuff you never knew you missed]

If you’d rather not install a third-party extension for this job, there are some other workarounds that may help. If you only need access to old messages and would like to prevent any online distractions, you can use Gmail offline, for example. Just click the cog icon in the top right corner of your screen, hit See all settings, and select the Offline tab. There, check the box next to Enable offline mail and finish with Save Changes. This feature will let you view your email even when you’re completely disconnected from the web. (Of course, this only works if you don’t need the rest of the internet for your work).

You could also set up your Gmail account using a third-party email client like Thunderbird or Apple Mail. This will allow you to open the app and put it in offline mode whenever you want some peace, so you can keep using the web while your email stays frozen. Just head to Gmail’s Settings, go to the Forwarding and POP/IMAP tab, find IMAP access, and check the box next to Enable IMAP. This will allow those desktop programs to access your email. 

Snooze unimportant emails for later

Despite the advice of productivity experts, my inbox doubles as a to-do list. (Hey, I’m not the only one.) It just works for me: unread emails act as a constant reminder that something requires action.

Not all of these tasks require an immediate response, though, and having them sit unread in my inbox nags at me. Plus, they make it harder to see the urgent stuff that’s mixed in. For that, Gmail’s Snooze button has become my new best friend: on desktop, hover over the message in question and click the little clock icon that appears to the right, or right-click on an email and select Snooze. On mobile, slide an unopened message to the left or right, depending on your personal configuration.

Snoozing banishes an email from your inbox until a time you specify—say, tomorrow morning when you have free time to schedule an appointment with the mechanic. That way, you can keep things clean and anxiety-free while you take care of what’s really important at the moment.

Schedule emails to send at the most opportune time

Dealing with email as it comes in is rarely a productive use of your time. It’s better to batch a few email sessions—say, once every couple of hours—and knock everything out in a single chunk. That way, you aren’t constantly interrupting your momentum with an unrelated task.

The problem is, it’s hard to time those inbox sessions perfectly for every email. Gmail’s Schedule button lets you write the email when you want and schedule it to send later—so it arrives precisely when you mean it to.

Once you’ve written your email and chosen its recipient, click the downward arrow to the right of the Send button, then hit Schedule send. Gmail will suggest three predetermined times for you, including tomorrow afternoon and Monday morning. If none of those work, you can click Pick a time & date, and use the emerging calendar to pick the exact moment you want your message to hit its destination. Finish by clicking Schedule send. On the Gmail app, the process is similar: just tap the three dots in the top right corner of your screen and select Schedule send. 

Your scheduled messages will sit and wait in the main Gmail sidebar within the Scheduled folder. If you need to make changes or unschedule any of them, you can find them all there. 

Stop wasting your time on typing

It may seem silly to say that “writing email is a waste of time,” but in the age of automation, it’s true. Gmail has a number of features that can help you draft messages more quickly, so you can get back to doing actual work.

Templates have been around for ages, though they used to be known as “canned responses.” These allow you to save certain blocks of text that you use often and insert them into any email with a few clicks. For example, you could use them to enter your address, or ship off a form response to a question you get asked every day.

If you have a Google Workspace account (through your employer or education institution, for example), you can create a template by opening a new message, typing the text you want to save, and clicking the three dots in the bottom right corner of your message. On the emerging menu, hover over Templates and choose Save draft as template. Then, when crafting a reply to an email, you can go to that same menu to insert text from any template—you’ll be able to recognize them by the subject line.

Smart Compose on Gmail is another useful feature, and it’s available for all users. This tool will predict what it thinks you’re about to type and shows the rest of the sentence in gray text. You can press Tab to complete the prediction, and keep on typing. If you disabled this feature—I get it, it’s distracting—you should give it another shot. Once you get used to it, it’s amazing how quickly you can breeze through some messages. If you want to skip the typing altogether, you can choose one of Gmail’s response chips, which you may see when replying to an email. These AI-generated options might be all you need, so you can choose one of three mostly innocuous phrases like “That sounds good!” or “Have a great weekend too!” and hit Send.  

Google recently integrated its AI platform, Bard, into the web version of Gmail. If you signed up for Google Workspace Labs, you can enable Duet AI—an experimental AI-email composer that will write your message for you after you give it a prompt. To sign up, you can visit the Google Labs website and choose to join the Workspace Lab. 

Once you do, a multicolor navigation bar will appear when you compose new Gmail messages —click Help me write to get started, and then write a prompt. You can try anything, like “compose a happy holidays message for a potential client,” or “an email apologizing to my kid’s teacher after they bit the classroom pet.” Hit Create to see the results. You can also ask Duet AI to give you a second draft by clicking Recreate, or request changes—click Refine and then choose to Formalize, Elaborate, or Shorten. When you see something you like, click Insert to add the message to the body text. Remember that AI takes a lot of creative and factual liberties, so you’ll need to make sure everything looks good and accurate before you hit Send. 

Finally, you can use Gmail’s multiple signatures feature to switch between different sign-offs based on who you’re emailing. Just go to Settings, and under General, scroll down to Signature and click Create new. Once you have everything you need, click the pen icon in a Compose window to switch between them.

Mute distracting email threads

I have friends and family that like to start long, multi-person email threads sharing silly jokes, political debates, or other time-wasting nonsense. Unfortunately, there’s no way to leave a thread completely without nagging someone to move you to BCC. But Gmail offers the next-best thing: the Mute feature, which prevents the thread from showing up in your inbox when new messages arrive.

[Related: Gmail’s new email layouts will give a newsletter vibe to all your messages]

To mute a thread in Gmail, right-click on it and choose Mute—that’s it. Further messages will still be marked as unread, but they’ll skip the inbox altogether and enter the bowels of your All Mail tab, never to be seen unless you search for them. That way, you can catch up on those threads later, if you want—and you can even unmute them if they become relevant.

This story has been updated. It was originally published in 2020. 

The post 9 Gmail features to get you out of your inbox and back to work appeared first on Popular Science.

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Reacting to something online is way more fun if there’s an animation involved. Apple seems to understand this, as it included hand gesture reactions in macOS Sonoma. They work on FaceTime, of course, but also on some other video call platforms, including Google Meet, Zoom, and Microsoft Teams. 

Now, if you have a compatible Mac, you’ll be able to celebrate your colleague’s promotion with a dramatic firework effect, or send digital hearts to your significant other without clicking or tapping anything. 

Check if your computer is compatible 

There are two system requirements you’ll need to play around with macOS’s new hand gesture reactions, and you can use one menu to confirm you have both. 

Animated hand gestures are possible thanks to the processing power of Apple’s silicon chips, so you’ll need to start by seeing if you have the right hardware. Click the Apple icon in the top left corner of your screen, then About this Mac, and a small window will pop up. The first item is Chip—if your machine is sporting an M1 or M2, you’re good to go. 

You can use the same window to check your macOS version. If it’s Sonoma, you’re good to go. Otherwise, click More info, which will take you to Settings. There, go to General, then Software Update to have your machine scan for, download, and install newer versions of the operating system. Your computer should automatically tell you if you can upgrade to the latest version of the OS, but you can also check Apple’s official list of compatible devices. 

[Related: 6 new features in macOS Sonoma you have to try]

If your machine cannot handle macOS Sonoma and is not equipped with Apple Silicon, we’re happy to tell you that there’s still a way to enable hand gestures on your video calls: using the Continuity Camera feature. This capability is available on devices running software as old as macOS 13, and it’ll let you use your iPhone as a webcam for video calls on your computer. You will need an iPhone running at least iOS 16 and signed into the same Apple ID as your Mac machine. 

2. Activate your camera and you’ll see the Video menu button appear on the main macOS navigation bar—it’s a bright green button with a white camera. Click it and make sure Reactions is selected. This will activate the feature.

3. Back on your video call, you’ll be able to make predetermined hand gestures to trigger animated reactions. For example, give a thumbs up or a thumbs down and you’ll see a gray bubble with the relevant emoji. 

You can also use both hands to make a love gesture, and small red hearts will bubble up on top of your camera feed. 

Or generate a cool laser effect by making a rad rock ‘n’ roll gesture. Just keep in mind that this might be an offensive gesture in some cultures, so be mindful of your audience. 

Maybe release some celebratory balloons by making a peace sign. 

Beyond these, Apple has a full list of gestures you can make—it’s not long but we would not be surprised if they add more over time. 

Make marked gestures

We got the best results when making very neat gestures. For that, how you angle your hands is extremely important. For example, the rock ‘n’ roll gesture triggered the laser animation more consistently if the back or front of our wrist was facing the camera—aiming our indexes and pinkies at the camera resulted in absolutely no reaction. 

Skip the hand gestures altogether

If you like the animated reactions but are not willing to try (and fail) to trigger an effect in front of your colleagues, just skip the gestures. When on a video call, open the Video menu on the main macOS navigation bar. On the emerging menu, click the arrow next to Reactions and you’ll see a quick menu of emojis you can select—these are the same ones you can trigger with hand gestures.   

Deactivate visual effects and virtual backdrops to better showcase animated reactions

If you use a virtual backdrop or any kind of built-in visual effect on your video calls, it’ll affect how your animated hand gestures show on your camera feed. For example, if you use a blur effect to protect your privacy (or hide whatever mess is sitting behind you) the hearts, balloons or bubbles that emerge when you make a hand gesture might get caught behind the effect and look blurry or low quality. If you use a virtual backdrop, then your machine will only show the animation behind the effect’s overlay, which may not show the reaction at all or make you look, well, interesting.   

The post Hand gesture reactions are one of macOS Sonoma’s coolest new features appeared first on Popular Science.

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If you’re got smart lights set up at home, then you’ve probably played around with turning them on and off with your phone, and cycling through millions of colors. But if you have Philips Hue bulbs, you can also get them to sync with what’s on your TV screen or monitor.

So, you could have a wash of greens and blues behind your TV when watching Avatar, for example. Or your journeys through the vast world of Red Dead Redemption 2 could be accompanied by shifting colors as you move through deserts, forests, swamps, and snowy mountain ranges.

We’re assuming that you’ve already got your Philips Hue smart lights up and running at home. Then, depending on your setup and what you want, you can either use a desktop app or the Play HDMI Sync Box to have your smart lights react to your favorite content in real time.

Using the Hue Sync app

The easiest and cheapest way to sync your smart lights to your screen is to install the free Hue Sync desktop app for Windows and macOS. A caveat, though: this approach will only sync your lights to what’s on your computer, so it won’t work with your TV. Your laptop or desktop will need to be on the same WiFi network as your smart lights, so the program can see your Hue Bridge and the devices attached to it.

[Related: Find the best smart light for your home]

Download the desktop app and launch it. You’ll have two options: Help me set everything up and Search for bridge. Pick the first one if you’ve just bought your Hue lights and you’re installing them from scratch. The app will then take you step-by-step through the process of getting all the hardware connected. If your lights are already set up, select the second option.

Within a few seconds, the app should easily find the Hue Bridge and connect to it. If you haven’t already done it, turn to the Philips Hue app on your phone to set up what’s called an “entertainment area”: This is just a way of telling your Hue system which lights should be grouped together for syncing with screen content.

In the app, open the Settings tab, then go to Entertainment areas and Create area. Choose For my monitor, give the area a name, and then select the lights to include in it. The app will then prompt you to show the location of the lights within the room, so it knows how to sync them together with what’s on screen.

Once all that is done, head back to the desktop app—the entertainment area that you just created should be selected. Click on the name of the area to bring up the main syncing console: You can choose Start light sync to have the effect enabled on the selected bulbs.

There are also a few options to play around with on the app console. At the top you can choose one of four modes to determine the brightness of the lights: The ones we’re interested in here are Games (optimized for games) and Movies (optimized for video), but you can also pick Scenes to select a fixed Hue scene for your lights, or Music to have the lights sync along with the audio that’s being played.

If you pick Games or Movies, you can then control the strength of the effect: Pick from Subtle, Moderate, High, or Extreme. If the lights are changing color too often and it’s becoming distracting, choose Subtle or Moderate. The last option, Use audio for effect, means the Hue Sync desktop app will take into consideration the sounds in games and movies when choosing colors for the lights.

Based on our testing, the results are usually pretty good, though games and movies with more gradual color changes work best. You can always go back to the Hue app on your phone to tweak the entertainment area settings, as well as adjusting the options in the desktop app, to try and improve the results.

Finally in the desktop app, you can choose Settings to configure different aspects of the program, including which display is used for syncing (if you’ve got more than one), and whether or not the app starts up with your computer. It’s also possible to configure keyboard shortcuts for the desktop app from here.

Using an app can also work when syncing your smart lights to what’s on your TV—but that will only work if you have a Samsung TV from 2022 or newer. Philips Hue makes a Hue Sync TV app for these devices which you can find in the Apps section. The downside is it costs $130, but you might consider the functionality worth it for the seamless integration. The setup process is similar, but you’ll need to choose For my TV when setting up an entertainment area in the mobile app.

Using the Play HDMI Sync Box

If you have another type of TV, then you’ll need a hardware option to sync your smart lights with what’s on it. The Play HDMI Sync Box from Philips Hue is $250 and it comes with accompanying Hue Sync apps for Android and iOS. You can use this little gadget to connect up to four different HDMI sources—just keep in mind that if you’re playing on your console, you’ll need to connect the Sync Box both to your gaming device and your TV.

[Related: Best smart lights of 2023]

There’s support for Dolby Vision, HDR10+, and 4K resolutions, and the box is clever enough to recognize which source is playing and automatically switch to it. The information from the HDMI feed is beamed to your Hue Bridge at the same time as it’s showing up on screen, so your lights have a detailed map of colors to work from.

Setup is similar to the desktop app in that you need to create an entertainment area in the mobile app first. From the original Hue app on your phone go to Settings > Entertainment areas > Create area, and choose For my TV. The platform will ask you which smart lights are in the same room as your TV and where they’re positioned.

Then, from the Hue Sync app, you can turn effects on and off, switch between Video, Music, and Game modes, and adjust the strength of the effect and the brightness level in the same way as you can on the desktop app for computers. The apps also let you link the Google Assistant, Amazon’s Alexa, or Apple’s Siri for the box, so you can use voice commands to enable or disable sync and switch between modes.

The post 2 ways to sync your Philips Hue smart lights to movies, games, and music appeared first on Popular Science.

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Going incognito in your browser and favorite apps has its benefits, even though it may not be as private as you think. Also known as private mode, this feature temporarily pauses tracking of your browsing or viewing history and doesn’t save data you input, such as login credentials and personal details.

We don’t need to know your reasons, but if you need to go about your business without leaving any tracks, we can show you how to go incognito on apps like YouTube, Instagram, and Google Maps, whenever necessary.

Turn on YouTube’s incognito mode

There are good reasons you might want YouTube to remember what you’re watching. Logging the videos you’ve watched improves your recommendations and makes sure you can easily get back to that hilarious sketch clip you enjoyed several weeks ago. However, if you share your device with someone else, activating incognito mode on Google’s video platform might help you keep your watch history private. 

[Related: Why YouTube is hiding dislikes on videos]

To temporarily go incognito on YouTube’s mobile app, tap your profile picture (top right), then choose Turn on Incognito. You’ll then start browsing on a clean slate, with fresh recommendations and no viewing history. To go back to normal, tap the incognito button (top right) and select Turn off Incognito.

You won’t find an incognito mode available for YouTube on the web, but you can get the same result by simply opening the video platform in a private browsing tab. Note that if you’re a YouTube Premium subscriber, the ads will return when you’re in incognito mode.

How to go incognito on Google Maps

Going incognito on Google Maps is useful if you need to research places or plan journeys without leaving any trace, or if you don’t want your searches to affect the recommendations the app gives you about where to go.

If you’re using the mobile app, tap your profile picture (top right), then choose Turn on Incognito mode. Your personalized recommendations and quick links to places like your home address will disappear, and the app won’t save anything you do in this mode. To exit, tap the incognito mode button (top right) and hit Turn off Incognito mode.

As with YouTube, you won’t find this option built into Google Maps online, but you can just open the site inside a browser set to incognito mode instead. You can still look up information about places and get directions, but you can’t leave reviews, save places, or see your location history.

Start a private session on Spotify

Your listening history shows up in a few places on Spotify. The app shares it with friends you’ve connected with on the platform, and your recently played artists show up on your public Spotify profile.

To listen to songs without this automatic sharing and tracking, you can start a private session—Spotify’s version of going incognito. On mobile, tap Home, the cog icon, and under Privacy turn the Private Session toggle switch on. From the desktop app, click the drop-down arrow (top right) to find the switch. To end a private session, just retrace your steps and flick the switch the other way.

If you don’t turn your private session off manually, it will automatically end after 6 hours or when you restart the Spotify app.

Going incognito on Instagram

While Instagram doesn’t have an incognito mode as such, you can stop your friends from seeing when you’re actively online. Tap your profile picture (bottom right), then the menu button (top right), followed by Settings and Privacy. Select Messages and story replies, then Show activity status, and turn off the toggle switch on the next screen. On the web, click the three-line menu in the bottom left corner of the screen, then Settings, and How others can interact with you. On the next menu, toggle on the switch beside Show activity status.

[Related: Why the web version of Instagram is better than the app]

This also means that you won’t be able to see other people’s Instagram activity status in places like the direct message conversation list, so keep that in mind. Retrace your steps and switch Show activity status back to on to go back to normal.

There’s not much you can do on Instagram without logging in, so opening your account in an incognito browser window won’t prevent the platform from tracking what you’re seeing. But if you use one to open direct links to profile pictures and individual posts, your browsing will stay private. 

Clean your viewing history on video streaming apps

Unfortunately, no video streaming service offers an incognito mode, as profiles are only meant for individual use. However, you can edit your viewing history and remove items if necessary. 

On Netflix on the web click your profile picture (top right), then Account. Choose your profile, open Profile & Parental Controls, and then Viewing Activity. Click the hide button (on the right) to remove something from your record—you can hide individual episodes or entire shows. If you want to absolutely hide your viewing history, just select Hide all. Whatever items you remove won’t show up as recently viewed or affect your future recommendations.

[Related: The government won’t protect your internet privacy, so here’s how to do it yourself]

If you’re using Hulu on the web, scroll down the Home page to find the Continue watching section and click View all. You’ll see a tiled view of all the shows and movies you’ve played on the platform—click the three-dot menu next to an item you want out of your viewing history and choose Remove. When it comes to shows, you won’t be able to remove specific episodes, and if you’ve watched every episode of a series, it won’t appear on the list because Hulu doesn’t save a history of the movies and shows you’ve completed. 

Other video streaming apps have similar options if you delve into your viewing history in the settings. They all support profiles, so your viewing record doesn’t have to get mixed up with the habits or preferences of the rest of your family or the people you share a place with.

This story has been updated. It was originally published in 2021.

The post How to go incognito on these 6 popular apps appeared first on Popular Science.

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Coordinating locations with friends and family can be a real hassle. “I’m by a big tree,” “I’m standing on the corner,” and “My car broke down but there are no signs so just drive along I-95 for a while” simply aren’t helpful when there are multiple corners, dozens of trees, and 1,908 miles of Interstate 95.

It’s a lot easier if you use an app that lets you share your location safely and privately—without broadcasting it to the world. Apple has put tools inside iOS for sharing your location from an iPhone, and Google has done the same in Google Maps, but there are also several third-party apps that can do the job well.

At first it might seem unsettling to let other people know exactly where you are, but you’re in full control of who has this information and how long they have it for—and the next time you’re trying to meet up with someone, this can save you a whole lot of time and a whole lot of messages.

Glympse

Among the apps specifically built for location sharing, Glympse is one of the most comprehensive and competent. It’s great for quick, customized location sharing with people who might not all be using the same brand of phone or the same apps, and there are mapping tools inside the app that will help you find friends and family.

You can send location shares—called, appropriately enough, glympses—over email, text, or through other apps as well as Glympse. If the recipient is on a computer, or using a phone without Glympse, the glympse shows up in that person’s web browser instead, and only for the allotted time. You don’t even need a Glympse account to share your location.

You get full control over who you share your location with and for how long, and you can set up private groups where everyone can see where everyone else is. Another handy feature is the option to add public tags to your glympses: They work a bit like social media hashtags, and you can use them to let the wider world know that you’re at a music festival or a sports event.

Glympse is free for Android and iOS.

Life360

Life360 is aimed specifically at families, so you can keep tabs on where your kids are and make sure they’re safe. You can get alerts when they turn up at home or school, see where they are on a map, and even get alerts if they may have been involved in a crash on the road. With Tile tracker support, you can track your possessions in the app too.

The map view is the center of the Life360 app. It lets you check up on where family members are in real time, and for peace of mind there’s an SOS feature that lets anyone discreetly and quietly send an alert to their family. If your kids want a bit more privacy, they can share their general location rather than a precise spot on the map.

[Related: These smartphone settings could save your life]

You and your family can use Life360 free of charge, but you’ll get access to more features if you sign up for one of the premium accounts, which start at $15 a month. Paying for the service means 30 days rather than two days of location history, alerts for an unlimited number of locations instead of just two, and a road crash detection feature.

Life360 is free for Android and iOS, with a premium version starting at $15.

Messaging apps

Beyond standalone apps dedicated to location sharing, you’ll also find the feature built into several messaging and social media apps. If you want to temporarily share your location with a specific group of people—like when you’re on a family vacation—you might find that these apps are a better fit for you.

How to share your location on WhatsApp

In WhatsApp, tap the paperclip icon at the bottom of any one-to-one conversation or group chat, then choose Location. You can choose between sending a single message showing where you currently are, or broadcasting your live location in real time for 15 minutes, an hour, or eight hours (with the option to cancel the sharing at any time).

It’s perfect for quick and easy location sharing that you don’t want to go on indefinitely, especially as you probably already have the necessary group conversations set up inside the app for your friends, family, colleagues, and special events. Don’t worry: Your location will stay private within these group chats, or within the one-to-one conversation you’ve selected.

WhatsApp is free for Android and iOS.

How to use Snapchat’s location settings

Snapchat has a feature called Snap Map, which you can use to let your friends know where you are. No one who isn’t your friend will be able to see your location, and you can limit it to certain friends if necessary. The Snap Map will also show you public snaps posted to the Snapchat network—usually showing off a particular place or event to the world at large.

Tap the map pin (bottom left) on Snapchat’s camera screen to find the map and see where your friends are. Touch the cog icon (top right), and you can choose which friends can see where you are, or turn on ghost mode to temporarily hide your location. Your location only updates when Snapchat is open, and is removed from the map after 24 hours.

[Related: Make a Memoji that actually looks like you]

On this same screen, there’s also a Share live option: This grants specific friends the privilege of seeing where you are in real time, and you can enable it for one hour, eight hours, or until you turn it off. It’s a useful extra layer of location sharing you can enable for the people you trust the most, like your partner or your kids.

Snapchat is free or $4 a month for Android and iOS.

Share your location in Signal

The primary reason to get yourself and your friends on Signal is the security and privacy it offers: There’s end-to-end encryption, the option to use disappearing messages, and (perhaps most importantly) it’s run by a developer that isn’t interested in advertising to you or trying to keep you locked inside its own ecosystem.

While it’s not worth switching to Signal for its location-sharing features alone, it does have them, so you won’t miss out on being able to let other people know where you are at specific times. Like everything else in Signal, location sharing is handled simply and securely, and can be done within one-to-one conversations or inside group chats.

At the bottom of the relevant conversation, tap the plus button in the bottom right corner, then choose Location from the menu that pops up. You’ll then be able to confirm where you are before sharing your location—it’s shared in a one-off message with the people inside the selected chat, so your location won’t be updated in real time.

Signal is free for Android and iOS.

The post 5 location-sharing apps that aren’t run by Apple or Google appeared first on Popular Science.

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Your Samsung Galaxy phone’s lock screen is likely to be the first one you see in the morning and the last one you see at night. This is why it’s so important to set it up exactly how you want to.

Galaxy handsets come with a good selection of options and features to help you customize your lock screen, whether you want to set a new backdrop, make the clock a lot bigger, or add extra widgets for easier access to your apps.

Lock screen wallpaper and themes

Let’s start with the wallpaper. You can set separate background images for your home screens and lock screen—just press and hold on a blank part of a home screen and choose Wallpaper and style on the emerging menu.

Tap Change wallpapers to pick a new image—you can pick from photos featured by Samsung and pictures in your phone’s gallery. When you select the one you want,  you then get to choose whether you want to apply it to your lock screen, home screen, or both. Don’t worry—before you fully commit to your selection, you’ll see previews of how the backdrop will look.

[Related: Samsung Galaxy Z Flip4 review: Powerful vibes]

Back on the Wallpaper and style screen, tap Color palette to choose a color scheme for your phone’s entire interface. You can select your favorite from a list of basic hues, or pick a combination of colors based on the wallpaper you picked. Again, you’ll get a preview of how everything will look, so you can try as many as you want until you find one you like.

Instead of choosing a picture and a color scheme separately, you can go with a theme, which is a bundle of items including a wallpaper, a color scheme, and a particular icon and font style, that you can apply with a single tap. Press and hold on a blank part of a home screen, and select Themes to see your options. You’ll find free themes provided by Samsung, alongside others from third-parties, which you may or may not have to pay for. If you’re dealing with a paid theme, you’ll see the price listed next to it.

If you don’t want the trouble of changing the wallpaper regularly yourself, have your phone do it for you. After tapping Wallpaper and style and Change wallpaper, scroll down to Dynamic Lock screen. From here you can pick a collection of images (landscapes and plants, for example), and the device will automatically cycle between them every couple of weeks.

Changing lock screen elements

That’s the wallpaper and colors taken care of, but you can also edit the lock screen widgets and other elements on the display. From Settings, tap Lock screen and the next page will let you control how you unlock your phone and, if your handset supports the feature, activate the always-on display. There’s also a Roaming clock toggle switch—turn it on to see the local time at your location and at home, if you happen to be traveling in a different time zone.

Tap the Lock screen graphic and you’ll be able to change the style and size of the lock screen time and date widget. From this menu you’ll also be able to tweak the way your phone displays notification icons—as small buttons or larger bubbles, for example. Just tap on the element you want to change and the relevant options will appear.

You can also select Contact information to add your contact details to the lock screen, which can come in handy if you lose your handset and someone else picks it up, or if you’re ever involved in an emergency and someone needs to learn your identity. Galaxy phones also have shortcuts in the lower left and right corners of the lock screen, which you can easily change by tapping on the icons. You can use these shortcuts to launch utilities and apps like the camera, phone app, flashlight, voice recorder, or any other app of your choice. Tap Done when you’re finished.

[Related: Samsung Galaxy Buds2 Pro earbuds review: Riding high (fidelity)]

Back on the previous Lock screen page from Settings, tap the Widgets graphic and you’ll be able to pick which widgets show up when your phone is locked. There are a few to pick from, covering your upcoming schedule, any set alarms, the weather, and any music currently playing. Tap on Reorder at the top to change the order of the widget list.

There’s one final lock screen customization you might want to make: If you choose Notifications and then Lock screen notifications from Settings, you can set whether your phone displays notification content (like the previews of incoming messages) when your device is unlocked. If you don’t want anyone seeing something private when they glance at your locked phone, choose Hide content.

The post All the cool ways you can customize your Samsung Galaxy lock screen appeared first on Popular Science.

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Learning how to check your internet speed can come in handy if you want to make sure you’re getting your money’s worth after splurging on a fiber connection. Knowing your true download and upload speeds can also be useful if your favorite streaming platform is lagging and you need to make your case to a representative of your internet service provider (ISP).

Luckily, doing an internet speed check is easy. There are many apps and websites you can use for free, and some even let you schedule network speed tests so you can identify patterns and know if you’re actually getting what you’ve paid for.

Why does internet speed fluctuate?

Before running an internet speed test, you should know that there’s a variety of factors that can impact your WiFi speed.

Time of day

The internet experiences the most traffic between the hours of 7 p.m. and 11 p.m. when a lot of people are back home after work, probably gaming, streaming their favorite shows, and browsing the web. ISPs have a limited amount of bandwidth so they struggle to meet customer demand during these peak hours, causing a log jam that results in slower speeds. This means that to get a true picture of your max bandwidth, you should check your internet speed during off peak hours.

VPNs

While virtual private networks are great for making you anonymous on the web, the trade-off is a slower connection. To get an accurate reading, don’t forget to disable your VPN before running an internet speed test.

Network use

If you share your WiFi with a lot of people and a bunch of them are streaming movies, on video calls, or gaming, an internet speed test won’t produce accurate results. Wait until your network is seeing minimal use before you check it.

How to check your internet speed

There are several sites you can use to do an internet speed test. Most work by measuring how long it takes your network to upload and download sample files from a specified host.

Fast.com

Fast.com certainly lives up to its name by running an internet speed test automatically—zero clicks needed.

On a browser

1. Go to Fast.com and the internet speed test will begin automatically. There’s no need to click on anything at all.

2. In less than 10 seconds, Fast.com tells you how speedy your internet connection is.

On a phone

You can use Fast.com on your phone by downloading a simple app available for Android and iOS.

1. Choose what you want to measure. If you want to test your network speed, turn off your WiFi connection; if you want to test your WiFi speed, turn it on.

2. Open the Fast app and the speed test will immediately begin. After a few seconds, the app will tell you your internet download speed. Click on the Show more info if you wish to see your upload speed.

Ookla Speed Test

The Ookla site is one of the better known ways to run an internet speed test and it works on both desktop computers and mobile devices.

On a browser

1. Open your browser and head to the Ookla website. You don’t need to create an account to perform an internet speed test, but if you do, Ookla will keep a history of your results and display them in a graph. This data can be useful to compare your network’s performance over time. To create an account click Log in in the upper right corner of your screen.

2. On the site you’ll immediately see your IP and the location of one of your ISP’s servers the site chooses by default. To get the most accurate reading, you should always check your internet speed using the host that is geographically closest to you. If the one Ookla chose for you is not it, you can click on Change Server to select a different one. You might also want to run multiple tests with a variety of hosts to get a complete picture of your internet speed.

3. Once you’re satisfied with your server selection. Click on the large GO button in the middle of the screen.

4. Ookla begins with a download test (how long it takes your device to save a copy of a file on the selected server) followed by an upload test (how long it takes your device to send a file to the server).

While this is taking place, you’ll see a speedometer in the middle of the screen showing you how fast your connection is. The test takes about 30 seconds, after which the site will show your download and upload speeds. If you see a huge discrepancy between what you’re paying for and the network speeds you’re actually getting, you should contact your ISP to see if there’s a problem with your modem or router. 

On your phone

You can also use the Ookla site to check the internet speed of your smartphone’s data connection.

1. Download the Ookla Speedtest app (available for Android and iOS).

2. By default, the internet speed test will check the WiFi network if you’re connected to one. If you want to know how fast your phone’s data connection is, turn off the WiFi connection on your device.

To do so on an iPhone, go to Settings, then Wi-Fi, and tap the toggle button at the top of the screen to turn it off. On Android, tap Settings, Network & internet, and Internet. Tap the switch next to WiFi to turn it off.  

3. Unlike the browser version of Ookla, the mobile app doesn’t allow you to change the server location, so all you have left to do is hit the a GO button in the middle of the screen to check your internet speed test.

4. The app will display the current download and upload speeds as it runs the test, and give you a final report once it’s done.

Google M-Lab

Google’s internet speed test works with the company’s Measurement Lab, which seeks to provide “the largest collection of open Internet performance data on the planet”. This network speed test will not allow you to choose different hosts or create a record of your results, but it’s one of the easiest to use. This is in no small part because you don’t even need to remember its name.

1. On a desktop browser or the mobile Google app, type in Speed test into your Google search bar. 

2. As a result, Google will show you its internet speed test, with an explanation of what it entails. Before starting the test, take note of the privacy disclosure in the window, which explains that M-Lab will receive your IP address, which they will publish on their site along with all the results of tests done by them. This doesn’t include any other information about you.

3. If you’re comfortable with Google’s rules, click the blue Run speed test button. A small window will open and the speed test will begin. It takes about 30 seconds to get your results, including upload and download speeds.

TestMy.Net

If you want to understand your internet speed test within a context, then TestMy.Net is a great option. In addition to giving you your download and upload speeds, this site also tells you what the average speed is for the chosen host and for specific geographic locations, like your city, your country, and the rest of the world. This allows you to see how your connection ranks among various groups of users, helping you to determine if your internet speed is keeping up with the Joneses, topping them, or lagging behind. 

TestMy.Net will also allow you to schedule automatic speed tests for set intervals, so you can look at how your Internet connection speeds change over a set period of time.

1. On a mobile or desktop browser, go to testmy.net and choose between one of three different network speed test options: Download speed test, Upload speed test, and Automatic speed test. You can tweak different settings depending on which one you choose.

Download speed test / Upload speed test: When clicking either of these options, you’ll be able to choose between doing a regular internet speed test (click Test my download Speed or Test my upload Speed) or a Manual test size. The latter will let you choose the specific amount of data you want to upload or download during the test, which is great for if you’re trying to figure out if hauling larger amounts of data slows down your overall download speed.

Automatic speed test: Automated tests will let you check your internet speed over time or even in different places within your home. Choose this option and you’ll be able to use the drop-down menus in the middle of the screen to set the total number of tests you want to conduct and how often you want to run them—you can set them up to be as frequent as every five minutes or up to once every 24 hours. The drop-down menus on the right let you to select minimum and maximum download and upload sizes, helpful if you’re trying to determine if your internet speed changes depending on the size of the file you’re trying to send or receive. Meanwhile, the menu on the left lets you label the location of your device during the test, which is useful if you want to see how your network speed changes depending on where you are in your home.

2. Once you’ve chosen your options, select the blue button in the middle of the screen to start the test.

FAQs

The post How to check your Internet speed on your phone, a browser, and Google appeared first on Popular Science.

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Splitting the screen on your iPad can really amp up your productivity. The feature is officially called Split View and it’s available on all Apple tablets running iPadOS 13 and newer. When you activate it, you’ll have two open windows on your screen, whether that’s two completely different apps or a pair of windows for the same one. 

You probably have your own reasons for wanting to split up your screen, but it’s worth noting that Split View can be extremely helpful if you’re working in one app while getting inspiration from another, or if you’re messaging with two people at the same time. 

3. The open app will automatically move to the left to reveal your home screen. From here, select a second app to open. 

• Pro tip: You can open two iterations of one app if you want—just pick the same app when the iPad home screen appears. This will be especially easy to do with Apple apps, but not all tools support this feature. For example, you can use Procreate in Split View, but you can’t open two Procreate projects at the same time. 

4. Your apps or windows will now be side by side in a split-screen view. 

• Pro tip: Tap the three white dots at the top of any of the open apps or windows and choose Split View again to make them switch sides—pick Left split or Right split.

[Related: You should use your iPad as a second screen]

How to adjust the size of your split-screen apps on an iPad

You can only split your iPad screen evenly if you’re using your tablet in a landscape orientation. 

The size adjustment will happen automatically, as Split View will give each app or window the same amount of screen real estate by default. 

You can easily change this if, for example, one of the apps you’re using requires more space. On the black line splitting your screen in half, press the short gray line in the middle and move it to the right or left depending on which app you want to give more screen space to. 

Unfortunately, you don’t have total freedom to determine the split proportions of your screen. If you’re holding your iPad in a portrait orientation, the slider will only snap in place in increments of thirds, so your apps will be distributed in a 30-60 split (or 60-30, depending on if you want the bigger app on the top or bottom). With your iPad in a landscape orientation, the slider will stick to quarters, meaning your apps can only be distributed 50-50, 25-75, or 75-25. 

If you try giving an app less than one third (portrait) or one fourth (landscape) of the screen, the slider will automatically move to the edge of the screen, closing the app and turning your split-screen view into a full-screen view. 

How to have multiple split screens on your iPad

Each split screen acts like one open app. So just like you can have as many open apps as you want, you can have as many split screens as your heart desires. 

1. Follow the steps above to split your iPad screen. 

2. Swipe up from the bottom of your screen to go to the home screen. 

3. Open an app and split your screen again.

When you swipe and hold to see all your open apps, you’ll be able to see all your split screens in one place. Keep in mind that all of the open apps, whether they’re in Split View or full-screen mode, are indeed open and working—if you have too many of them, your iPad’s performance and battery life might suffer.  

How to turn off split screen view on the iPad

You can turn off Split View by closing one of the apps or windows. There are two ways to go about it. 

Use the three-dot menu

When Split View is active, you’ll see three white dots at the top of each open app or window. Choose the app you want to close, tap its three dots, and choose Close from the emerging menu. The remaining app will go into full-screen mode and you’ll be out of split screen. 

Slide the screen separator all the way to the edge of the screen

In Split View, press the gray line in the middle and slide it all the way to the left to close the app taking up the left side of the screen, or all the way to the right to close the app to the right. The remaining app will go into full-screen mode. 

FAQs

Q. Can I split my iPad screen horizontally?

At the moment, Split View is limited to a vertical split, meaning you can only have two apps or windows side by side, not on top of each other. This makes a split-screen iPad more effective when it’s in a landscape orientation. 

Q. How many apps can you multitask on an iPad?

Split View only works with two apps or windows, but you can open up a third one using Slide Over. This feature, also available from the three-dot menu, can turn an app into a floating window that sits on top of a split screen, either to the left or right.

Be warned, though—if you use Slide Over to put an app on top of a split screen, you won’t be able to move it, as it’ll replace the app under it the moment you let go. This makes Slide Over somewhat impractical to use with Split View, especially because you cannot resize an app you’ve slid over, and its default size will cover a good portion of an evenly split screen.

[Related: iPad Pro review: Pretty and powerful]

But if this still works for you and you want to push the limits of your multitasking abilities, here’s how to do it: 

1. Follow the steps above to split your iPad screen, making sure one of the apps you open is the one you want to slide over.  

2. Tap the three dots at the top of the app you want to float above your split screen and choose Slide Over from the emerging menu. This will turn the app into a floating window, while the one underneath will go into full-screen mode. 

3. Tap the three dots at the top of the app in full-screen mode, choose Split View, and pick a third app to open. This will result in a normal split-screen view, and will hide the window you just slid over. 

4. Bring back the slid-over window or app by swiping and holding from the bottom of the screen. This will show you everything that’s currently open on your iPad, and to the far left, you’ll see the window or app you slid over. Tap it to open it on top of the split-screen view. 

The post How to split your screen on an iPad and conquer multitasking appeared first on Popular Science.

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If you’re looking for your TikTok watch history in the hopes of finding a recently viewed video, it’s probably not where you last saw it. The so-called clock app, as tech companies often do, has changed its menus and stashed this useful feature in an unfamiliar place.

Unlike TikTok’s early days, when the disappointment of accidentally reloading your For You page and losing the share-worthy clip was so common—so visceral—that it became a meme, locating recently watched TikToks is easy now. And if you want to become so powerful that your watch history’s limitations cannot stand in your way, you can use specific search filters and techniques to hunt down exactly what you need. Doing so will be much faster than tediously scrolling through your archive.

How to find your TikTok watch history on iOS and Android

Although people with iPhones got the ability to see their TikTok history before Android users, the processes have since unified. As it should be.

On iOS, all you need to do is tap Profile in the bottom right, hit the main menu (three lines) in the top right, touch Settings and privacy, find the Content & Display heading, tap Activity center, and choose Watch history. You can find your Comment history and Search history on the same page.

On Android, the steps are similar: Profile > main menu (three lines) > Settings and privacy > Activity center > Watch history. Again, if you never comment, you’ll only see Watch history after Settings and privacy.

No matter which mobile operating system you’re using, you’ll see every video you’ve watched within the past 180 days. If you’re trying to find something older, you’ll have to search for it with the normal TikTok search function (tips below).

You can find a recently watched video by scrolling down this page, but be warned: everything is on there. Whether it’s a video you watched in its entirety or one that happened to briefly load and autoplay as you moved around the app, it’s part of your TikTok watch history. The only videos you won’t find are Lives and Stories.

[Related: 7 tips to make the most of TikTok]

Unless you’re extremely patient, this method isn’t great for digging deep into your archive, because you can’t search the watch history page. If you’re a heavy TikTok user and watched something days or weeks ago, you’ll end up scrolling for a while. You can, however, hit Select in the top right and tap individual videos or touch Select all watch history in the bottom left. Then you can permanently get rid of those clips by tapping the bright red Delete button. At least tidy up a bit while you’re there.

From the app’s Home screen, tap the search icon (a magnifying glass) in the top right corner. Then type out the relevant keywords and hit Search. Next, hit the Watched button just above the first row of videos. This will change your search results to show any videos you’ve watched. If you don’t see this option (along with All, Unwatched, and Recently uploaded), make sure you’re in the Top tab—they don’t appear if you’re in any of the others. Otherwise, TikTok may not have registered that you watched a video related to your search terms, or it may have passed before your eyes longer than 180 days ago.

As with your watch history, the Watched search filter will display TikToks that appeared in recent searches and auto-played as thumbnails as you looked through the results, so you may have to dig deeper every time you search.

Other TikTok search tips

The main search results page, whether you filter it or not, is stuffed with content. You can use these tabs and suggestions to further refine your search or just get lost in the TikTok abyss and hope your algorithm doesn’t take a devastating hit. I, for one, will probably spend the next week telling TikTok I’m not interested in those videos where people pour milk all over the counter while “making coffee” because I searched “coffee TikTok” while working on this story. (To do so, long-press on the video when it plays on your FYP and hit Not interested on the menu that appears.)

Some videos in your search results will have a badge indicating they’re among top-liked posts for the search you ran, and if you scroll down a little you may also find related terms other people searched for.

[Related: Why some US lawmakers want to ban TikTok]

Within the less-obvious filters menu (tap the three dots to the right of the search bar, then hit Filters), there are also options to further focus your search on videos you’ve liked, dig up only those posted within a specific time frame, and sort by either relevant videos or ones with the most likes. 

Under the same three dots, you’ll also see Share feedback, which is where TikTok gives you the option to provide feedback on any problems you may have had with their search function. When I first published this story back in January 2022, I joked that maybe if enough people used that form to request an easy-to-use list of recently watched videos, TikTok would make it happen. Well, we did it, folks.

This story has been updated. It was originally published in 2022.

The post Your TikTok watch history has moved—here’s how to find it appeared first on Popular Science.

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You are more than a data point. The Opt Out is here to help you take your privacy back.

We may earn revenue from the products available on this page and participate in affiliate programs. Learn more ›

YOU’VE PROBABLY heard about the benefits of spring cleaning and keeping only what brings you joy. But maybe you haven’t considered that the same logic can also apply to the stuff gathering dust on your storage drives and in the cloud. 

Of course, they’re not literally getting coated in a layer of dirt and dead skin cells (yes, that’s what dust is), but digital files do take up space. And just as more financial security can lead to more challenges, more data can also result in more privacy problems.  

So get rid of some of it and focus your effort on securing the files that matter the most. 

Data hoarding is not good for privacy

If you’re thinking this isn’t something you need to spend time on, think again. Why? The more files you have, the more likely it is that some of your data will spill all over the web. This is because we tend to be disorganized with our digital belongings, which we usually have copies of on multiple platforms and devices. 

We propose an exercise: Think about and list all the accounts you have where you store files, photos, backups, etc. Now add to that every device you have that’s also storing data—your current phone and computers, but also the old ones, and your hard drives and flash drives. The number is likely higher than you’d expected. Now, do you know exactly what kind of information they’re storing? Yeah, probably not. 

[Related: The recycle bin settings you didn’t know you needed]

This doesn’t mean you’re messy. It happens. Sometimes it’s hard to get rid of stuff, and we don’t always have a say in what online platforms we use. Your work or school, for example, may choose them for you. On one hand, this is good, because using different accounts makes it easy to compartmentalize your life. But on the other hand, you can lose track of what you have—even misplacing files you’d consider important. 

You could have all your stuff in one very secure account, but there are two drawbacks to that approach. First, it’s not strategically sound. Put all your file-eggs in one digital basket, and you could lose everything to an outage or have all your information posted online after a data leak. Then there’s the inevitable: Files take up space and space is finite, so having a single cloud account would eventually require you to pay for space. And you don’t want to do that, especially considering how much of it is available for free on the web.

As with most conundrums, the solution is balance. Reduce the number of files you have and save whatever’s left in only a couple of secure locations, combining online and offline storage in a way that works for you. 

Cull your files

Use your computer and start with your local drive and any external hard drives you own. Then move on to your cloud services. The premise is simple: delete, delete, delete.

Tweak your system’s file explorer settings so that files display using the largest possible icons—this will save you time by allowing you to see if they’re worth keeping without actually opening them. On a Mac, make sure your files are showing as icons in Finder, then use the Cmd+ and Cmd- shortcuts to zoom in and out; on Windows, click View on any File Explorer window and choose Large icons or Extra large icons. On Mac computers, you’ll also be able to quickly see files using Preview—just select an item and hit the space bar to see it in a larger size. 

When it comes to deciding what to delete, start with the lowest-hanging fruit: circumstantial files. These include the photos you sent your partner from the grocery store to confirm which hot sauce you should get and the menu for that restaurant you went to three weeks ago. Once those files are gone, get rid of duplicates—you don’t need five slightly different pictures or three versions of the same document. Just choose the final one or the one you like the most and obliterate the rest. Continue by removing bad-quality photos and videos. If it sounds bad, delete it; if the photo is botched beyond editing, trash it; if it’s out of focus, bid it bye-bye. 

For images taken at specific events, like a concert or a wedding, curate your content. Set a specific and realistic number and select only the best items—between 50 and 100 is a good place to start if you want to give yourself some wiggle room. Consider that photos are not memories per se, but tools we use to remember, and you don’t need a full terabyte to remember. 

Once you’re done removing files from your devices and all the external hard drives you own, get comfortable and repeat the process in the cloud. Make a list of the main platforms you’re using and tackle them one by one. 

If you’re overwhelmed by the possibility of deleting something you might miss later, just use Marie Kondo’s criterion: Does it bring you joy? And, when pertinent, is it useful or irreplaceable? If the answer is no, you’ll probably forget about it in five minutes. 

And if you keep thinking about it, don’t worry—you can usually bring your deleted files back from the dead if you act quickly enough and are tech-savvy. When culling files on a cloud service, know that most platforms will move them to the trash folder and keep them there for 30 days. This means two things: 1) you won’t be freeing up space just yet; and 2) you can change your mind at any point before that time runs out. 

The trash folder on Windows and macOS is similar—even if you deleted files from your computer or hard drive, it is sometimes possible to bring them back. Just keep in mind that it can be complicated and sometimes doesn’t work at all, so proceed with caution.   

How and where to store your files

Once you’re done with the massive task of going through all your files, it’s time to organize the documents you kept. Knowing what you have and how to easily find it will allow you to adopt more secure strategies for sensitive material. For example, you don’t want your nudes to live right alongside photos of your family, which you’re more likely to share with people. A bad selection tap and your aunt will see you naked again—and this time it won’t be because she’s changing your diaper. 

A good organization strategy is to separate files according to the different aspects of your life, like “work,” “education,” and “general.” Create folders with your chosen category names, and start using them to organize your files. Within those folders, you can get as specific as you want. Whatever route you choose, the point is to know what you have and how much you have, and to label important documents as such. 

When it comes to choosing where to store your files, keep it practical. Think about your storage locations as your pocket, closet, and basement. Essential files and documents that you always want to have at hand, like your car insurance policy, should live in the cloud for easy access. Files that you probably won’t need urgently but are important enough to keep close by should stay on your phone or your computer’s hard drive—think the spreadsheet where you’ve been tracking your slow-pitch softball team’s performance this season. Finally, the documents you want to keep but you’ll hardly ever open, like your brother’s wedding pictures, should go on an external hard drive. The idea is to avoid wasting cloud space on files you probably won’t need at a moment’s notice. 

Secure your files

Now that you’ve decreased the number of files to your name, it’s time to keep them safe. Whether you’re using the cloud or a folder on your computer, secure sensitive files behind a good password and enable two-factor authentication wherever possible. 

If you can’t or won’t think of a good password, opt for a password manager—these apps will also remember your credentials for you, so it’s a win-win. As an alternative, if the platform you’re using supports passkeys, consider enabling one—it will allow you to access your files in multiple ways, such as with your face or fingerprint. Some cloud platforms offer different ways to secure your account—get to know them and use the ones that make sense for you. 

[Related: Passkeys could be better than passwords. Here’s how they work.]

Beyond that, the ultimate security measure is to encrypt your files before you upload them to the cloud or save them to a local or external hard drive. This will protect your content from data leaks and any snoopers who might want to see what you keep on your hard drive. Windows and macOS have built-in encryption options for your local documents, but you can also find dedicated apps that will do the job for you.

If this all sounds like a lot, it’s because it is. You probably have a lifetime of files scattered around on the web, your external hard drives, and multiple cloud storage accounts. This whole process of downsizing your data will take time, and it’s fine if you do it in batches. Just remember that the fewer files you have, the easier it’ll be to manage and protect them in the future. 

Read more PopSci+ stories.

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You spend a lot of time looking at the lock screen of your Pixel phone—checking the clock, seeing if people have replied to your messages, and so on—so you’ll want to get it set up in the best way to suit you.

In fact, you might not have realized how many different ways you can customize the Pixel’s lock screen, from the size and color of the clock, to the type of notifications that appear before you unlock your handset.

Change your wallpaper and fine-tune your colors

The most basic way to customize the Pixel’s lock screen is by slapping on a new wallpaper, and you can set a lock screen backdrop that’s different from the one you have on your home screens.

To start, press and hold on a blank part of the home screen, then choose Wallpaper and style and Change wallpaper. You’ve got plenty of options here: You can dive into your own photo gallery, pick an image from one of the wallpaper collections Google has put together, or tap Emoji workshop to create a picture using emojis.

When you’ve selected an image, you’ll be taken to a preview screen—tap Lock screen to see how it looks when your phone is locked. If you’re happy, select Set wallpaper, then Lock screen (to set it for the lock screen only) or Home and lock screens (to set it across Android entirely).

Go back to the Wallpaper and style screen and you’ll see you can pick between Wallpaper colors and Basic colors for the operating system: Choose the latter to have the colors of Android menus and icons follow the color scheme of your new wallpaper. This will also affect the clock and widgets on the lock screen.

Adjust the at-a-glance widget

Google puts a handy at-a-glance widget on both the lock and home screens, giving you timely information such as the current weather forecast and appointments you’ve got coming up on your calendar.

To edit what this widget shows, tap and hold on it on the home screen, then choose Customize, and tap the cog icon next to At a Glance. You’ll see a long list of toggle switches for controlling content in the widget (and more behind See more features), including Fitness, Bedtime, Parcel delivery, and Commute.

On this same screen, there are also options for allowing apps you’ve got installed (such as weather apps) to send information to the widget on the home and lock screens, and to hide sensitive content from the lock screen widget—this is handy if you think other people might be looking at your phone while it’s locked.

[Related: Syncing Google and Apple calendars is less annoying now]

Google doesn’t provide a definitive list of what “sensitive content” actually is, but one area where we’ve seen this setting make a difference is with Google Calendar appointments. If you’re hiding sensitive content, these won’t appear on the lock screen, so other people won’t be able to see that job interview or doctor’s appointment you’ve got coming up.

Other Pixel customization settings

You can customize what appears on the lock screen in a few other ways by opening up Settings and tapping Display, followed by Lock screen. The Privacy option lets you show or hide sensitive content in notifications, as they come in—again, Google doesn’t say what “sensitive” means, but it does include the first line of incoming messages and emails.

Another option is to tap Add text on lock screen to do just that. The most common use of this feature is to put your name and perhaps some contact details (like an email address) on the lock screen in case someone finds your phone and needs to return it to you—though you’re free to add any kind of message you like.

Then there’s a series of toggle switches for showing or hiding various elements, including the Now Playing widget that automatically identifies songs that are playing nearby. And if you want a smaller clock that doesn’t take up the whole lock screen, turn off Double-line clock.

The last few options let you choose whether or not the lock screen “wakes up” to show information when you tap the display, pick up your phone, and notifications arrive. You can also turn off Always show time and info to prevent anything from appearing on screen while your phone is sleeping, which should help improve battery life.

The post How to set up the wallpapers and widgets that will make your Pixel more fun appeared first on Popular Science.

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Knowing how to share your location on Google Maps can be a valuable tool. With just a single tap, this feature will let your friends know you’re safe if you’re walking home alone, give your family some peace of mind when you’re traveling, and help you keep an eye on your teen while they’re on their first solo drive.

When you share your Google Maps location, the person on the other side will be able to track your movements, see how much battery is left on your phone, and even set an alert that announces your arrival or departure from a specific location.

But be careful: In some cases Google Maps will generate a link that anybody—even people you don’t know—can use to see your whereabouts. You’ll need to be careful who you share it with. It’s also a good idea to routinely check the app and see who has access to your location and remove permissions when necessary.

How to share your location with another Google account

With Google Maps, sharing your location is easy whether you have an iPhone or an Android device. Before you begin, open the app and if you’re not logged in already, sign in using your Google account credentials.

1. If the person you’ll be sharing your location with isn’t already on the contacts list associated with your Google account, start by adding their Gmail address to your list.

If they don’t have a Google account or you’d rather not add them to your contacts list, skip to the next section.

2. On Google Maps, tap your profile picture in the top right corner of your screen and on the emerging menu tap Location Sharing.

3. The next screen will explain how Location Sharing works and what information other people will be able to access when you share your whereabouts with them. On Android, tap Share my location to continue; on iOS, tap New Share.

4. Then you’ll be able to determine how long the person you’ll be sharing your location with can track you. This is crucial, as you may want them to keep an eye on you while you head home, but don’t want them to know where you are next week. Protect your privacy by choosing the least amount of time possible. On Android and iPhone, under Share your real-time location, use the plus (+) and minus (–) to set the exact amount of time your whereabouts will be available to others, ranging from 15 minutes to a day.

On Android, you also have the ability to share their location until they decide not to. To do that, tap the circle next to Until I turn it off.

5. After selecting a time limit, tap the profile of one or more people you want to share your location with. You may need to grant Google Maps access to your contacts in order to do this.

You’ll notice some contacts have a tiny Google Maps icon on their profile pictures. They’re the people that also have the app on their phones—if you share your location with them, they’ll be able to track you directly from there.

6. If you haven’t already, Google Maps will prompt you to grant it access to your location at all times. Follow the instructions on the screen to do it.

• Note: You won’t be able to share your location with other users if you don’t change this setting. But if you’re not comfortable with Google Maps knowing where you are at all times, you can always change it back. On Android, go to Settings, Location, Google Maps, and tweak permissions as you see fit. On iPhone go to Settings, Privacy & Security, Location Services, and Google Maps.

7. Tap Share to finish.

Share your Google Maps location with someone who doesn’t have a Google account

Even if the person you want to share your location with doesn’t have a Google account, you can still share your whereabouts with them on Google Maps.

1. From the Google Maps app, tap on your profile, then Location sharing. 

2. On an iPhone, tap on New Share and choose More Options at the bottom of the screen. On Android devices, tap Share my location and focus your attention on the bottom of the screen, where you’ll see the apps you can use to share a link with your location.

3. From here, you have a bevy of options for sharing a direct link to your Google Maps location. You can choose from a list of your favorite text message chats on several platforms, plus email and social media apps. You can also just copy the link and paste it wherever you want.

Android users will also have the chance to choose a contact that doesn’t have Google Maps on their phone—they’re the ones without the multicolor pin icon over their profile pictures. For them, the way you share your location will depend on the information shown below their names: If you see a phone number, they’ll receive an text with a link to your location on the web version of Google Maps; if you see an email, they’ll receive the link via email.

• Warning: The link Google Maps generates with your location is public, which means that anybody who has it will be able to know where you are in real time. Be careful who you share this link with. If possible, share it only through direct and private channels with people you know and trust. 

How to share your trip on Google Maps

In some cases, you may not want to give someone the ability to track you while you move for a set amount of time, but rather for a particular trip. This is ideal if you’re visiting friends and family and want to give them the ability to keep tabs on you as you travel from point A to point B.

1. Start a journey on Google Maps: Select a destination and tap Start.

2. Once Google Maps has started your trip, tap the bottom of the screen to bring up an options menu and choose Share trip progress.

3. Google Maps will display your frequent contacts at the bottom of the screen—tap one to share your trip with them.

If the person you want to share your location with is not there, Android users can slide the icons to the left and tap More to open a more comprehensive contacts list. You can also pick one of the apps at the bottom of your screen and share a link through one of them.

Meanwhile, if you have an iPhone, you can tap More options at the bottom of the page to access various messaging and email apps to share a link with your trip information.

4. As soon as the contact you shared your trip information with opens the link, they will be able to track your progress up until the trip ends.

FAQs

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If you own a Google Pixel phone, you’ve now got some fun features to play around with. The latest Pixel drop update added a couple of new options for creating wallpapers on your device, giving you added flexibility when it comes to picking a backdrop.

The first one is cinematic wallpapers, which allows you to add a dynamic, 3D-style effect to any image you use on your lock screen. The second one is the ability to create emoji wallpapers, where you can use any emoji as the basis of your smartphone’s creation and generate a customized backdrop. Both features will give your device a personal touch and are incredibly fun to play around with.

All of the existing wallpaper options on the Pixel remain in place, so you can still pick a regular picture for your home screen or one of Google’s moving images or photos, if you want.

How to make cinematic wallpapers on a Pixel

To get into the wallpaper editor on your Pixel, tap and hold on a blank area of one of your phone’s home screens, then choose Wallpaper and style and Change wallpaper. Tap My photos, then select the image you want to use from your gallery. It can be a photo you took with your camera or a file stored anywhere else on the phone, like a picture you received or downloaded from the web.

When it comes to choosing the best image to turn into a cinematic wallpaper, there aren’t any restrictions, but some photos will work better than others. We found the best results come from images with clear foreground subjects—think kids, pets, or lamps. 

With your image open, tap the icon in the top right corner showing three sparks, and turn on the toggle switch that’s labeled Create Cinematic wallpaper. After a few seconds where Google’s AI will identify the foreground from the background to produce an effect where the two seem more separated, your new wallpaper will be ready to use. Tap Set wallpaper, and choose whether you want to apply it only to your home screens, or your home screens and lock screen.

[Related: Google Pixel 7 Pro review: Viva la (hardware) evolution]

Your Pixel will apply that cinematic effect as you lock and unlock the device, as well as when you switch between the home screens and your apps, swipe through home screens, and tilt your phone. Spend some time playing around with different types of images and you’ll get a better idea of how the feature works.

Keep in mind that animated backdrops usually consume more battery than regular, static wallpapers. It shouldn’t be a big problem, but if you’re regularly struggling to extend your phone’s battery life, you may want to think twice about using a cinematic wallpaper. 

How to make emoji wallpapers on the Google Pixel

To create an emoji wallpaper, tap and hold on a blank area of a home screen, then pick Wallpaper and style and Change wallpaper. This time, select Emoji workshop, and you’ll be ready to start playing around with the emojis of your choice. The system will already have selected some for you, but you can tap Edit emoji in the bottom right corner of your screen to make your own picks.

You can create a wallpaper from a single emoji, or from as many as 14. If you’re stuck for inspiration, use the Randomize button, which will pick some emojis for you. From what we can tell, the software tries to pick related emojis, but it doesn’t always get it right.

There are two other tabs here: Open Patterns to pick how you want your emojis arranged as they repeat across the screen, and the size of the emojis. Open Colors to choose the color scheme for your new emoji-based backdrop. All of these settings can be jumbled up again with a tap on Randomize.

When you’ve got something you like, tap the checkmark icon in the top right corner, and then choose Set wallpaper. You’ll notice your Pixel applies a few animation effects to the emoji wallpaper, as you swipe between home screens and lock and unlock your device. Note that as you create new emoji wallpapers, your old ones will be saved so you can go to the Emoji workshop screen to get them back.

Other wallpapers

If this is the first time you’ve experimented with the wallpaper settings on your Pixel phone, you might be wondering about all the other options that appear when you choose Wallpaper and style and Change wallpaper from the home screen.

The My photos option is fairly straightforward, enabling you to pick an image stored on your phone. You’ll also see curated collections of images provided by Google, covering categories such as Art, Landscapes, and Textures. The Live bloom and Living universe selections are a bit more interesting, as they come with added motion effects, like short video clips.

[Related: 7 tips and tricks to master your Google Pixel Tablet]

Head into Community lens to see images from other users that have been picked out by Google’s team. They cover some pretty dramatic landscape and nature shots, and can be useful if you’re not keen on using any of your own snaps (or generating a custom wallpaper using emoji).

Once you’ve set your wallpaper, back on the Wallpaper and style screen you’ll see a Wallpaper colors setting: Enable this if you want the interface colors on your Pixel (for lock screen items, menus, and other areas) to match the color scheme of the current wallpaper.

The post Emoji wallpapers and cinematic backdrops can make your Pixel phone as fun as you are appeared first on Popular Science.

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Sharing your location on an iPhone isn’t difficult, but you will have to make one important decision before you let your contacts know where you are: how exactly you want to share that information. There are several easy methods available on iOS—it’s just a matter of choosing which one works best for you.

Before you try any of the options in this story, though, you’ll need to turn on Location Services. You won’t be able to share your location from your iPhone if you don’t.

We encourage you to restrict location sharing whenever you can, or at least check which iPhone apps and tools are using Location Services—indefinite sharing can drain your battery, at best, and be a privacy or security risk, at worst. To check who has access to your whereabouts, follow the steps above to open the Location Services settings, then tap Share My Location. If you’re sharing your location with anyone from your iPhone, you’ll see their name listed there. To cut them off, touch their name, then hit Stop Sharing My Location at the bottom of the screen.

Quick access

• Share your location in the iPhone Messages app
• Share your location in Apple’s Find My app
• Share your location via Family Sharing
• Share your location in Google Maps or Apple Maps
• Share your location via satellite
• Why your iPhone won’t share your location

How to share your location using the Messages app

One of the most popular ways to share your location on an iPhone is via the Messages app. It’s also one of the more non-committal options and will turn off automatically if you choose the right time period.

This method will only work if the recipient also has an Apple device, but you can also use Messages to send your location (different from sharing your location) to anyone with an Apple or Android phone. Doing so will send a map pin of your current location, but it won’t track your movements.

1. In the Messages app, open the individual or group chat you want to share your location with.

2. Tap the name at the top of the screen.

3. Touch Share My Location.

• Note: Here’s where you can choose to Send My Current Location instead, which is the only way you can use Messages to tell your Android friends where you are.

4. Choose the time period you want to share your location for: one hour, until the end of the day, or indefinitely.

• Caution: If you pick Share for One Hour or Share Until End of Day, your iPhone will stop sharing your location automatically once time is up. If you choose Share Indefinitely, though, you might forget to turn it off.

How to share your iPhone location via the Find My app

Apple’s Find My app offers a variety of location-based services, including helping you find your lost devices, and detecting if an AirTag is moving with you. As such, you can also share your location on any iPhone with the Find My app installed.

[Related: Hidden iPhone tricks that will change the way you use iOS]

If you can’t find it, go to your iPhone’s Home screen and swipe all the way to the left until App Library appears at the top of the screen. Tap that search box and search for “Find My.” If it still doesn’t appear, you may have to reinstall it from the App Store.

1. To share your location from the Find My app, you’ll need to make sure you’re using your phone as the default Find My device. In the Find My app, go to the Me tab.

2. If the app already says you’re sharing from “this iPhone,” you’re good to go. Otherwise, tap Use this iPhone as My Location.

3. Now go to the People tab.

4. Tap the plus icon.

5. Hit Share My Location.

Use Apple’s Family Sharing to share your location

If you’re part of a Family Sharing group, you may already be sharing your location with the other members, but you can always customize your location sharing options.

1. From the iPhone Settings app, tap Family at the top of the screen, right under your name.

2. Touch Location Sharing to open further location settings.

• Share your location with: Use the toggle switches next to other family members’ names to enable or disable their ability to see your location.
• Automatically Share Location: Turn this on to instantly share your location with anyone who joins the family group. Turn it off to… not do that.

Share your location on an iPhone from Google Maps or Apple Maps

While you can share your location from an iPhone using the map apps from both Google and Apple, these options are not as comprehensive as the ones listed above.

Google Maps

Google Maps might be the best way to share your iPhone location with anyone who has an Android phone. We can provide the basic steps here, but if you’d like to dig a little deeper into the nuances of this cross-platform app, you can check out our guide on how to share your location on Google Maps.

1. In the Google Maps app, tap your avatar in the top right corner to open the app’s settings.

2. Touch Location sharing.

3. Choose from the list of people you’ve previously shared your location with, or hit New share to send it to someone new.

4. Decide how long you want to share your location, then pick the recipient from the list below.

• Note: If you don’t see the sharing options you want, you can swipe left on the list of people until you get to More, where you can type specific names, phone numbers, or email addresses, or hit More options to open the standard iOS sharing interface.

Apple Maps

You can’t share your real-time location from Apple Maps, but you can send a pin showing your current location.

1. From the Maps app, drag up from the bottom of the screen until you expand the menu and can see Share My Location. Tap that.

[Related: 14 tricks to get more out of the underrated Apple Maps app]

2. Choose the person you want to share your location with, or tap on the app you want to send your location from, such as Instagram or Signal.

How to share your location on an iPhone via satellite when you’re offline

Sometimes, you just don’t have cell service or WiFi access. Nature therapy can be good for you. But even when you’re off-grid, you may still want people to be able to find your location, especially if you end up lost in the wilderness.

If you have an iPhone 14 or 15, or the Pro versions of those phones, running iOS 16.1 or later, you should be able to share your location via satellite, but only if you set everything up before you ventured outside the range of cell and WiFi coverage. To do so, follow the steps above to share your iPhone location with specific people in the Find My app. Then save this article to read offline in case of an emergency.

1. Make sure you’re in an open area with a clear view of the sky and the horizon. Otherwise, you might not be able to link up with a satellite.

2. Open Find My, tap Me, find My Location via Satellite, and hit Send My Location.

3. Follow the instructions on screen—it may tell you to turn left or right to connect, or offer further guidance.

It’s worth noting that there are a lot of caveats to how this works, and Apple can explain better than we can. Ultimately, it’s good to know, but you probably shouldn’t rely on it to save you—focus on not getting lost instead.

1. From the Location Services settings page, scroll down the list of apps until you find the one you’re trying to share from—Messages, for example.

2. Check the words to the right of the app’s name—if it says Never, it doesn’t have permission to share your location.

3. Tap the app’s name, then choose one of the following options:

• Ask Next Time Or When I Share: The next time you try to share your location via the app, it’ll ask if you want it to access your location data.
• While Using the App: You’ll be able to share your location anytime you’re using the app.

The post How to share your location on an iPhone, including by satellite appeared first on Popular Science.

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You can’t deny the thrill of unboxing a brand new gadget, but sticking to factory-fresh tech every time isn’t cheap. Buying second-hand electronics, on the other hand, can save you a significant amount of cash and is a lot kinder to the environment.

Whether you’re buying used phones or used laptops, you may have valid concerns about the quality and lifespan of your purchase. Fortunately, some common sense precautions can ensure that your previously owned gadgets serve you well for years to come.

No matter what kind of tech you’re in the market for, the rules of engagement are more or less the same when it comes to minimizing the risk of ending up with a dud. Read on to familiarize yourself with them and start enjoying big savings.

Check the seller

What vendor you buy from will depend on how comfortable you are balancing risk and reward. Used gadget sales backed by major companies are a safer bet. Apple’s refurbished program, for example, guarantees brand-new batteries, bundled accessories, and the standard Apple one-year warranty.  But this peace of mind comes at a price, as buying second-hand tech from a big retailer is likely to be more expensive than buying from a random stranger on eBay.

[Related: How to sell your unwanted gadgets for cash]

If you want to go with a name you know, you’ve got quite a few options, including Decluttr, Amazon, and Best Buy. You can also check in with your favorite electronics store or manufacturer website to see what’s available.

Buying second-hand tech from an individual or a smaller company will likely mean cheaper prices and more choices, but less warranties and protections. If you’re happy with that, you can check out sites such as eBay, Swappa, and Facebook Marketplace. All these sites allow you to perform due diligence on the person you’re buying from to find clues of their trustworthiness: you can look at their selling history, the amount of information they give about themselves, and how old their account is.

A useful way of vetting individual sellers is to ask questions about the item you’re interested in. You won’t only learn more about what you’re buying, but how quickly the vendor gets back to you and how they respond should tell you something about them as well. The good news is that the majority of sellers out there aren’t wanting to rip you off: They just want to make some money on older tech.

No matter where you buy from, always check the returns policy and warranty information. Walmart Restored, for example, offers a one-year warranty or 90-day free returns on all purchases. Meanwhile, if you’re buying used on Amazon, you also get a 90-day guarantee on everything.

If you’re buying from individuals, check the listing carefully, and when in doubt, just ask questions—again, this is a good way of weighing up who you’re dealing with. See if they’re able to provide the original receipt and proof of purchase, as the official warranty might still apply. 

Check the item

As well as checking the seller carefully, you’ll need to check the product. Start by taking a detailed look at the images provided by the vendor, and don’t be shy about asking for more if you need them. Then, go over the item description meticulously to look for any mention of damage or faults, which should be revealed up front. In particular, you want to know when the gadget was originally purchased and get a good idea of how much it’s been used and what condition it’s in now.

Some checks will be specific to the device you’re interested in. When buying used iPhones, for example, it’s worth asking the seller to check the battery health (under Battery in the iOS Settings). If you’re buying a used video graphics card, ask to see some benchmarks to check on performance, maybe from 3DMark or a game you’re keen on. The more detail you can get, the better.

It’s also worth double-checking what the item comes with in terms of bundled accessories like chargers and headphones. Sellers can often forget to mention this and it can make a difference when comparing or negotiating prices. When buying used tablets, for example, look for mentions of included cases, screen protectors, or keyboard accessories, and see if they’re the official ones or third-party replacements.

Something else to check for is whether or not the gadget comes in its original packaging. This is usually the case with refurbished items, but not so much when you’re dealing with individual sellers. If the original box and accessories are included, it’s more likely that you’re dealing with a genuine product that’s been obtained through legal means—but it’s no guarantee.

[Related: How to set the right price when selling your old tech]

The price of a second-hand gadget is another indication of whether you should be completing this deal. Be wary of anything being sold too cheaply, or that the buyer is trying to get rid of in a rush. Some sites let you search through completed sales on the platform to give you an idea of what an item should be fetching—on eBay, type in the name and details of the product on the search bar and check Sold items in the left-hand pane.

When you find a deal you’re happy with, make sure you follow whatever rules and methods set by the site you’re using. In the case of eBay, for instance, don’t arrange payment or postage outside of the systems the platform has put in place. You’ll actually get warnings if you try swapping email addresses, for example, because if you’re communicating outside of the site, eBay won’t be able to see the messages you’ve sent and received in the event of a dispute, voiding any kind of buyer protection they might have offered.

The post Pro tips for buying used tech without getting scammed appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Learning how to use Google Pay is easy, whether you have an Android device or an iPhone. The Big G’s digital payment platform lets users pay for products and services online and in stores, send money, and save loyalty cards all in one app. 

With online shopping and contactless payments becoming more popular, Google Pay has become an important tool for people who want a safe and easy way to manage their money. It makes paying easier and gives you extra perks like rewards and savings, making it a great alternative to other payment platforms, such as Apple Pay.

How to set up Google Pay

To use Google Pay, you must have an active Google account. If you don’t, create one.

1. Download the Google Pay app from your phone’s app store.

2. Open the app. Select your country in the upper right corner, then sign in with your Google account. Tap Continue and set up your privacy preferences—you can let people find you only by your phone number, and make your transactions public, if you want. But if you don’t feel like getting into it right away, you can also select Not Now and adjust the preferences later in your Google account.

3. You must add a payment method by linking your debit or credit card, bank account, or PayPal account to your Google Pay account. Tap Add an account (iOS) or Link account (Android).

• Note: If you’ve already added credit or debit cards to your phone’s native wallet app, Google Pay might automatically add them to the app.

4. Google Pay uses Plaid, a third-party service, to obtain transaction and balance information from your accounts. Select Accept to agree, then Continue on the next screen.

5. Select your financial institution from the short list or type its name into the search bar at the top if you don’t see it listed. When you find it, select it and log in.

6. If the app is able to connect to your bank, the platform will let you know your account was successfully added. Tap Continue to finish. You’re all set—you can use Google Pay immediately.

How to send and receive money with Google Pay

Once you link your bank account or debit card to the app, you can easily pay your friend back for last Sunday’s brunch—just tap Send or request, select the person you want to send money to, enter the amount, and confirm the transaction. You can also request money from others by entering their email address or phone number.

How to use Google Pay in stores

iOS and WatchOS

Once you’ve set everything up on your iPhone or Apple Watch, you can use Google Pay without opening the app. All you have to do is unlock your Apple device, hold it near a contactless payment terminal, and follow the instructions on the screen. Your gadget might ask you to authenticate the transaction via FaceID or by providing your fingerprint, or pressing the lock screen button. Note that you can’t add a gift card to Google Pay on iOS, as that feature is only available for the Android version of the app.

Android

Google Pay doesn’t come downloaded by default on Android phones, so you’ll have to download it and set it up. Once that’s done, you can pay without opening the app—just unlock your device and hold it close to a contactless payment terminal.

How to use Google Pay for online and in-app purchases

Figuring out how to use Google Pay for in-app and online purchases is simple—just look for the right payment option at checkout. Select it, choose the card you want to use for the transaction (if you’ve added more than one) and follow the instructions. 

[Related: 4 good international money transfer apps]

If you’re using a credit card, you might have to confirm the security code (CVV) at the back of your card. If prompted, finish by authenticating the purchase using your device’s security measures. Keep in mind that not all vendors support Google Pay, so if that’s your only available payment method, make sure the website or app is compatible before filling up your cart.

FAQs

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Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Remember LiveJournal? There’s a good chance you left a lot of fanfiction and/or teenage angst on there, assuming you were a teenager in the 2000s. Since then, however, the trajectory of LiveJournal has been weird. 

LiveJournal stopped being relevant in the English-speaking world by the late 2000s, but remained popular in the Russian-speaking world. By the early 2010s, half of all traffic to LiveJournal was from Russia, where it became an important tool for the Russian opposition—Alexei Navalny, the anti-corruption activist and former opposition leader, had a popular blog on LiveJournal before he became a political prisoner. Eventually, LiveJournal was acquired by a Russian company with rumored connections to that country’s security apparatus. By 2018 all servers were moved to Russia and the terms of service were updated to comply with Russian law. This basically means you can’t use the service to criticize the Russian government or discuss LGBTQ+ issues, among other things.

Like I said: things got weird. It’s understandable, given this context, if you don’t want to keep your teenage ramblings on that site. That’s why, after a friend asked, I looked into ways to back up LiveJournal posts. It wasn’t straightforward. At all. LiveJournal offers an official exporting tool, but it can only export one month’s worth of posts at a time, which is basically useless. I tried using Wget to scrape old entries, but this backfired hilariously: LiveJournal blocked my IP address. After a lot of research, I figured out that using WordPress is the best way to back up your old LiveJournal posts. Of course, if you have no interest in saving anything and just want to delete your LiveJournal account, you can skip straight to that section below.

Set up a WordPress blog

WordPress is the most popular blogging tool on the contemporary web. There are two versions of WordPress: WordPress.com, which is a blogging service you can sign up for and use; and WordPress.org, which is an open-source system you can use with any web hosting service. (I wrote an extensive breakdown of the two versions for a former employer, if you’re interested.) 

You can use either version of WordPress to back up your LiveJournal, and you can easily migrate from one to the other if you change your mind. If you’d rather not pay for web hosting, I recommend starting with WordPress.com. Just sign up for an account, choose a name for your blog, and you’re up and running.

It may also be worth making your WordPress blog private, so no one can read your ancient LiveJournal posts while you figure out what you want to do with them. To do so, go to your site’s dashboard, click Settings, then General, and find the Privacy section. There, click the bubble next to Private to ensure only you (and anyone you give login information to) can see what’s there.

Migrate your LiveJournal posts

1. After setting up WordPress, hover over Tools in the sidebar and click Import. 

2. You will see several options, none of which are LiveJournal. Click Choose from full list at the bottom. 

3. Now you’ll see the LiveJournal option; click Run Importer. 

4. You will be asked for your LiveJournal username and password. You can also optionally set a password for any posts that were private on LiveJournal—they will all be protected with the same password. 

5. Click Connect to LiveJournal and Import, and the process will begin. This will take a while, and it might not look like anything is happening. Be patient and leave the tab open, but don’t panic if you accidentally close it: you can restart the importer and it will pick up where it left off. Eventually you will be told that the process is complete. You now have a backup of your LiveJournal posts and comments—check that everything is there. 

Delete your LiveJournal account if you want

Once you’ve confirmed that your posts are all on WordPress, you might want to delete your LiveJournal entirely, which you can do from your “account status” page. Just check the two boxes for deleting your comments and entries, then click the Delete my account and journal button. Note that you can’t undo this.

The post Patch a potential privacy risk by deleting your ancient LiveJournal appeared first on Popular Science.

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The latest version of Google Chrome introduced new settings that have raised privacy concerns. Google says these tools “give you more choice over the ads you see,” which sounds nice. But it’s also a jargony way to say the browser will track your web surfing and share some of your data with advertisers so they can show you ads that more effectively tempt you into spending money.  

The update has not been well received by privacy advocates, and even though you can turn all of these features off (more on that later), you can also just ditch Chrome and import your data into another browser, like Firefox, Edge, or Safari. 

Jumping ship is incredibly easy, and even though the process won’t transfer every single customization you’ve made to Chrome over the years—like personalized search engines and experimental flags—you’ll be able to pick up where you left off in no time.

How to import bookmarks and other Chrome data to Firefox

If you care about privacy, Firefox is a great alternative to Chrome. It’s free, fast, highly customizable, and easy to use. It also has a great track record when it comes to preventing cookies from following you around the web.

Start by downloading Firefox (available for all major operating systems) and opening it.  

1. From the main navigation bar, go to File, then Import from another browser. This will open a data transfer tool in a new tab. 

2. Firefox will automatically detect other browsers on your system and all user profiles or sessions saved to each one. Use the dropdown menu to select the session and browser you want to import your data from. 

3. Click the plus sign next to Import all available data to customize what you want to transfer from Chrome. By default, the checkboxes next to Bookmarks, Saved logins and passwords, Browsing history, and Extensions will be selected. If you want to leave something behind and start fresh, you can click the checkbox again to deselect that item.   

4. Finish by clicking Import.

Firefox will immediately organize your bookmarks in its own bar, have your browsing history readily available, and whenever you need a password, it’ll offer the right one. Extensions may require further tweaking, but you’ll know if one requires your attention by clicking the extensions icon to the right of the address bar—it looks like a puzzle piece.

[Related: 11 hot Firefox tips and tricks that might finally convince you to switch browsers]

How to import your Chrome data to Edge

Microsoft’s recently renewed Edge browser is built on Chromium, which means it plays particularly nice with Google’s offer. This also means that importing Chrome bookmarks and other data to Edge is both easy and intuitive, and you’ll also be able to import a lot more than with other browsers. 

1. Open Edge and go to Settings—find it by clicking on the three dots in the upper right corner of your screen. 

2. In the new tab, under Profiles, go to Import browser data. 

3. Select Import next to Import data from Google Chrome. 

4. In the emerging dialogue box, you’ll see two dropdown menus—use the second to select the Chrome session you want to import data from. 

5. Use the checkboxes below to choose what you want to import from Chrome. By default, all items will be selected: Favorites or bookmarks, Saved passwords, Personal info, Payment info, Browsing history, Settings, Open tabs, and Extensions. If you want to leave something behind, just click the relevant checkbox again to deselect it. When you’re done, click Import.

6. Edge will finish importing your data almost immediately, and will tell you so. All of your information will be readily available and just like you had it on Chrome. That’s the benefit of switching to a browser that’s built so similarly. 

How to import Chrome data to Safari

Apple users can try the built-in Safari browser, which some say may even be better than Chrome. The only downside is that, just like mobile apps for iOS and Android, the extensions Chrome uses are different from the ones for Safari. This means you can’t import them from one browser to the other, so you’ll have to start from scratch on that front. You can, however, easily import bookmarks, history, and passwords. 

1. Open Safari, go to File, hover over Import from, and choose Google Chrome.

2. Safari will open a dialogue box listing all the items it’ll import from Chrome: Bookmarks, History, and Passwords. All these checkboxes will be selected by default, so if you want to leave something behind, just click on it to deselect it. 

3. Once you’re satisfied with your choices, close Chrome if you haven’t already, and click Import. When it’s done, Safari will show you exactly what it did—click OK to close the dialogue box.

Your browsing history and passwords will be readily available. Unfortunately, Safari does this annoying thing where it imports your bookmarks into a folder within a folder, so you won’t immediately see your links on your Favorites bar. You can move the items and get rid of the extra folders, but you’ll have to manually drag and drop them, which can be a pain depending on the number of pages you’ve saved.

Export your data from Chrome

1. On Chrome for desktop, click the three dots in the upper right corner of your screen and head to Google Password Manager—the manager will open in a new tab.

2. In the left sidebar, click Settings. 

3. Under Export passwords, click Download file, and provide any credentials or biometrics Chrome might ask for to confirm it’s you. 

4. Use the emerging explorer window to choose a location for your CSV file, then click Save. 

• Note: The resulting CSV file will contain all of your credentials and is not encrypted. This means that if anybody else opens it, they’ll be able to see the username and passwords for all of your saved accounts. Don’t leave this file laying around—import it immediately and delete it as soon as you’re done with it. Then completely remove it from your hard drive by deleting it again from your computer’s trash.
  

5. Now you’ll need to download the HTML file with your bookmarks. Click on the three dots in the upper right corner of your screen, hover over Bookmarks, and click on Bookmark manager

6. Click the three dots in the upper right corner of the tab. Confusingly enough, these are not the same three dots that you clicked in Step 1, but you’ll find the correct ones right below them. 

7. Click Export bookmarks. Use the emerging window to select the location you want to put the file in, and click Save.  

Import CSV and HTML files to Firefox

1. From the main navigation bar, go to File, then Import from another browser. This will open an import tool in a new tab. 

2. Use the dropdown menu to select either Passwords from CSV file or Bookmarks from HTML file. Whichever one you choose, Firefox will open a new window so you can select the correct file. Click on it, and the browser will import the data. 

3. Repeat the process with the remaining file. 

Import CSV and HTML files to Safari

1. Open Safari, go to File, Import from, and then choose either Bookmarks HTML file or Passwords CSV files. 

2. Use the emerging window to find the correct file and import it. When importing passwords, Safari will require your authentication (biometrics or password) to add the information to your Keychain. 

[Related: 7 things Safari can do that Google Chrome can’t]

3. If you imported your bookmarks, you’re done. If you imported passwords, Safari will tell you how many of your credentials it imported. If there’s some data it couldn’t save, you can click on Open Password settings in the dialogue box and manually add the missing information. 

4. Repeat the process with the remaining file. 

Import CSV and HTML files to Edge

1. While using Edge, go to Settings—you can find it by clicking on the three dots in the upper right corner of your screen. Under Profiles, go to Import browser data. 

2. Select Import next to Import data from Google Chrome. 

3. In the emerging dialogue box, use the first dropdown menu to select either Favorites or bookmarks HTML file or Passwords CSV file. 

4. In the next dialogue box, click Choose file. Use the File Explorer window to pick the right file on your local hard drive. Select it and click Open. Edge will then confirm it’s done importing your data, which will be immediately available for you. 

5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 with the remaining file. 

How to turn off Chrome’s new privacy settings 

If you’re throwing your arms in the air and asking yourself if there is a way you can just keep Chrome without the ad tracking features, the answer is yes: just turn them off. 

On Chrome, go to your privacy settings or type chrome://settings/adPrivacy into the search bar. There, you’ll see three options you can click on to get more information: Ad topics, Site-suggested ads, and Ad measurement.

Ad topics analyzes your browsing history to determine topics you’re interested in. So, if you search “Yankees score” and visit the official site for Major League Baseball, Google will add “baseball” or “sports” to your topics. You can see the list of topics the browser has identified for you, and if you’re not comfortable with one of them, you can block it. Chrome will share four weeks worth of this data at a time with advertisers so they can show you stuff you might like. If you don’t want any of this, just toggle off the switch next to Ad topics. 

With site-suggested ads, Chrome allows sites to show you ads based on your topics and other browsing data. You won’t be able to see a comprehensive list of the sites that can do this, but if you can think of one that you’d rather not have your data, you can block it. But again, you can disable the entire feature by toggling off the switch next to Site-suggested ads.

Finally, ad measurement allows Chrome to share certain data with websites so they know how effective the ads they showed you were. The browser says it constantly deletes this data, but doesn’t say how often, and explains that browsing history remains private, but it’s not clear to what extent the data is anonymized. If you don’t want to run any risks, you can just disable the option by toggling off the switch next to Ad measurement.

The post How to finally ditch Chrome and move all your data and bookmarks to another browser appeared first on Popular Science.

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Whether you’re cutting back on your streaming subscriptions or your favorite jams aren’t part of the 100-million-plus songs in Apple Music’s library, you’ve decided it’s time to end your relationship with the service.

Fortunately, your breakup doesn’t have to be messy. There are several easy ways to cancel Apple Music, no uncomfortable conversations with Apple representatives necessary—you can cancel whenever you want. Your subscription will run until the end of the current billing cycle and you won’t be charged after that point. Afterward, you’ll be back on the market, with a little more money to court Pandora, Spotify, or some other streaming music service.

A word of warning, though: Apple Music will delete your curated songs and playlists when you unsubscribe. After you cancel, Apple will retain your playlists for 30 days, but that’s it. If you change your mind and decide to rekindle your relationship with the streaming music service within that time period, you’ll be able to get all your playlists back. Otherwise, they’re gone forever and you’ll have to rebuild if you ever return.

How to cancel Apple Music through the iPhone app

1. Open the app and tap on Listen Now (if the Listen Now screen doesn’t open by default).

2. Touch the profile icon in the upper right corner of the screen to bring up all of your account information.

3. Tap Manage Subscription, then Cancel. We told you it was easy.

Cancel through the Apple Music app on an Android device

1. Tap the three-dot menu in the top right corner of the screen and select Account.

2. Scroll until you find information about your subscriptions and tap Manage Subscription.

3. Hit Cancel Subscription and approve the confirmation.

How to cancel Apple Music on a Mac

1. Click on the Apple icon in the upper left-hand corner of the screen and select System Settings.

2. From the System Settings page, click on your Apple ID, then Media & Purchases.

3. Next to Subscriptions, you should see a Manage button. Click on it to see a list of all the apps you subscribe to.

4. Scroll down until you see your Apple Music subscription, then click the Edit button next to it.

5. Click Cancel Subscription and confirm the cancellation.

Remove a subscription on an iPhone or iPad

You can cancel your Apple Music subscription the same way you would end any subscription on an iPhone or iPad, and you don’t have to go into the music app to do it.

1. Open the Settings app, then tap on your name.

2. Hit Subscriptions, which you’ll find a few lines below your name.

3. On the Subscriptions screen, you’ll see a list of all the services you currently subscribe to. It’s in alphabetical order, so you should see your Apple Music subscription near the top of the list. Tap on it when you see it.

4. Just below the Apple Music icon and pricing information you’ll see a Cancel Subscription button in red letters. Tap that to cancel your subscription.

Cancel an Apple Music subscription online

If you’d rather not work in an app, you can cancel your Apple Music subscription via any web browser.

1. Open your favorite browser and go to music.apple.com.

2. Click or tap on the sign-in button in the top right corner of your browser window. A pop-up will appear asking you to enter your Apple ID and password. Enter that information, then click Continue. Apple may also ask you to complete two-factor authentication by entering a code sent to one of your Apple devices.

3. Click the profile icon in the upper right-hand corner of the Apple Music page. Choose Settings from the drop-down menu.

4. Scroll down to the bottom of the Account Settings page and select Cancel Subscription.

How to cancel Apple Music through the Apple TV app

One of the surprisingly easy ways to end your relationship with Apple Music is through another Apple streaming service, Apple TV.

1. Open the Apple TV app on your TV and click on the gear icon near the top of your screen to enter the app’s settings.

2. Select User Accounts, which will be the line that displays your sign-in ID.

3. Choose Manage Subscriptions. The app will then ask you to enter your username and ID.

4. After you enter that information, you’ll be able to access all of your Apple subscriptions, including Apple Music. Click on Apple Music to cancel the subscription.

The post How to cancel Apple Music if it’s no longer your jam appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Finding a WiFi password may not be something you need to do very often, especially since Windows, Apple, and Android devices generally save all of that information for every network you’ve ever connected to. Sometimes, though, you may need to re-enter this login info. Maybe your computer has forgotten the password after a system update, your WiFi is having problems, or you want to share your password with a friend. Whatever the case, there’s always a way to find your WiFi password—you just need to know where to look.

How to see the WiFi password on a Mac

1. Open the System Settings app and click on Wi-Fi.

2. Scroll to the bottom of the Wi-Fi page and click Advanced.

3. Scan through the list of known WiFi networks until you find the one you want. Click on the three dots next to the network name, then hit Copy Password. You can now paste the password anywhere you can enter text to see it.

Find the WiFi password on an iPhone

This method only works if your iPhone is running iOS 16 or later.

1. Open the Settings app on your iPhone and tap the WiFi network you’re currently connected to.

2. Touch the information icon (an “i” in a circle) to view the settings for that network.

3. Tap on the password field, then enter your Apple ID and password, and/or your iPhone passcode to reveal the WiFi password.

[Related: How to create a WiFi hotspot on your phone or computer]

How to find the WiFi password on Windows 10 and 11

1. Open Settings, then click on Network & Internet.

2. This step is slightly different depending on if you’re using Windows 10 or 11.

• Windows 10: Click on Change Adapter Options.
• Windows 11: Click on Advanced Network Settings, then More Network Adapter Options.

3. Double-click the network you’re connected to, then choose Wireless Properties, and click the Security tab. You’ll see a menu that includes the WiFi password (network security key) hidden under asterisks. Click the Show Characters box to reveal the password.

Use router settings to find your WiFi password

If for whatever reason you aren’t able to access the WiFi password using any of the above methods, you can try going through the router settings. Just keep in mind you’ll need the router admin’s username and password for this method to work.

1. Find your router’s IP address.

• On Windows: Open the Windows Start menu and type “cmd” to locate the Command Prompt app. Click the app, type “ipconfig”, and press Enter. The numbers behind the Default Gateway are your‌ router’s IP address.
• On macOS: Click the Apple icon in the top left corner of the screen, then choose System Settings. Click on Network, then Wi-Fi. Find the network you’re currently connected to and click on the Details button next to its name. A window will appear showing the router’s IP address.
• On iOS: Open the Settings app, then tap on Wi-Fi. Hit the information icon (the “i” in a circle) next to the WiFi network’s name. Scroll down until you see the router’s IP address.
• On Android: Open Settings and tap Network & Internet, then Internet. Tap on the wireless network you’re connected to and scroll down—you’ll see a bunch of network information, including the router’s IP address.

2. Once you know the router’s IP address, enter it into the address bar of a web browser. The router’s settings page should appear.

3. Enter the router’s username and password to gain access to its settings.

4. Navigate to the WiFi access code within the router settings. This process will vary depending on the brand and model of the router.

How to see the WiFi password on an Android device

You can easily find the WiFi password for a network you’re connected to using your Android device. You just have to generate a QR code to share the connection.

1. Open Settings, then tap on Internet.

2. Touch the cog icon next to the network you’re connected to.

• Note: You can tap on the name of any known network on the list, even if you’re not connected to it, but you’ll only be able to see a network’s password if you’ve previously saved those credentials to your device. 

3. On the next screen, tap Share and go through the authentication process—depending on what you’ve set up, your device will require you to input your PIN, pattern, or biometrics. Once it’s complete, the WiFi network’s password will appear under the QR code.

Find a WiFi password for a previously connected network

Although it’s easier to find the WiFi password of a network you’re connected to, it’s still possible to dredge up the login info for one you’ve hooked up to in the past. The work you have to do, though, will vary depending on the device.

Locate previous WiFi passwords on a Mac

Since the macOS operating system stores passwords in the Keychain Access app, it’s easy to find all of your previous network passwords on a MacBook.

1. Click the magnifying glass in the top right corner of your screen and type in “keychain access”. Click the name of the app when it appears.

2. Type the name of the WiFi network you want, then click on it when it shows up.

3. Click on the Show Password box, then enter your Mac’s administrator username and password to reveal the WiFi password you’re looking for.

See older WiFi passwords on Windows 10 and 11

It’s not not as easy to find a password for a network you’ve previously connected to on Windows, but it is possible. The process is the same whether you’re running Windows 10 or 11.

1. Open the Start menu and look for the Command Prompt program. Right-click on it, select Run As Administrator, and click Yes to confirm this is what you want to do.

2. To see a list of the networks you’ve previously connected to, type in the following command: netsh wlan show profile. Hit Enter.

3. Once you’ve spotted the desired network, enter the command again, followed by the network name and the command key=clear. So, if the name of the network is “mywifi,” the command should be: netsh wlan show profile mywifi key=clear.

4. If it works—and it might not work if the WiFi profile or password isn’t on your system anymore—you’ll see a list of network information and will find the WiFi password next to Key Content.

Find previous WiFi passwords on an iPhone

You can locate the WiFi password for any previously connected network on your iPhone but only if it’s running on iOS 16 or later.

1. Start by opening the Settings app and tapping Wi-Fi.

2. Tap the Edit button in the upper right-hand corner of the screen. Enter your password or use facial recognition to continue.

3. Scroll through the list of WiFi networks until you find the one you want. Tap the i button next to the name of the WiFi network, then click Password to reveal the password.

How to find previous WiFi passwords on an Android device

The steps for finding the WiFi password for a network you previously connected to are almost exactly the same on Android as locating the login info for one you’re already using. You just have to generate a QR code to share the connection.

1. Open Settings, then tap on Internet.

2. Touch the cog icon next to the network you want to find the password for.

• Note: You’ll only be able to see a network’s password if you’ve previously saved those credentials to your device. 

3. On the next screen, tap Share and go through the authentication process—depending on what you’ve set up, your device will require you to enter your PIN, pattern, or biometrics. Once it’s complete, the WiFi network’s password will appear under the QR code.

FAQs

The post How to find a WiFi password, whether you’re connected to the network or not appeared first on Popular Science.

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You probably know Spotify as a music streaming service, but you may not know exactly how robust its audiobook offerings are. At the time of writing, you can listen to more than 350,000 titles, and you can access them through the Spotify app in the US, Canada, the UK, Ireland, Australia, and New Zealand.

Audiobooks have been integrated pretty neatly into the Spotify user interface, so you can search for titles, add them to your library, and play audiobooks just as you would with podcasts and songs. You don’t have to dig deep to find audiobooks on Spotify, and getting started is straightforward.

How to find and buy audiobooks on Spotify

Depending on the whims of the Spotify algorithm, you may see audiobooks recommended to you as soon as you open up the app. You should also see an Audiobooks link, alongside Music and Podcasts & Shows, up at the top of the Home tab in the mobile app.

Follow any of these audiobook-related links to find titles, or open up the Search tab. Before you type anything into the search box, you should see an Audiobooks thumbnail underneath that will take you to the audiobook catalog. As with music, you’ll get a variety of recommendations, split into categories.

These categories change all the time, but you might see free or new audiobooks highlighted, or books that have been developed into movies, for example. Tap or click on any title to see information about it, including how much it costs, what its running time is, the average star rating left by other users, and who narrates it. In some cases, there will be a sample audio clip you can listen to.

[Related: 7 nifty Audible tips for your audiobook needs]

From the browsing we’ve done, Spotify’s audiobook pricing seems to range from completely free to up to $50 or so. Tap or click Get on a free audiobook to add it to your library, or Buy on a paid-for audiobook. Note that payments are all managed through the web, so if you’re using the mobile or desktop app, you’ll be redirected to a website.

By default, Spotify will suggest that you pay for audiobooks using a payment method you’ve used before, or one associated with your subscription, but you can change this if required. Audiobooks work independently from Spotify Premium subscriptions, too—you don’t need to be a subscriber to buy audiobooks, and if you are a subscriber you won’t get any titles bundled in with your monthly fee.

How to listen to audiobooks in Spotify

After you’ve purchased an audiobook on Spotify, you’ll find it in your library. On the desktop and the web, click the Audiobooks link at the top of the left-hand navigation pane, and on mobile tap Your Library, then Audiobooks. Click or tap Recents at the top to sort the audiobooks by the date they were added, the date they were published, author, or in alphabetical order.

You can actually add audiobooks to this list before buying them, too. On audiobook listing pages, you’ll see a plus symbol—click this to add the title to your library. You won’t be able to listen to it until you’ve purchased it, but it’s a handy way to shortlist audiobooks that you’re interested in.

Once you’ve selected an audiobook from your library, tap or click the play button to get it started. On the playback interface, you’ll see the same play/pause and skip buttons as you do with music—though the skip buttons let you jump between audiobook chapters, rather than between tracks on a playlist. The other controls match the controls for podcasts: You can skip forward or backward 15 seconds, and change the playback speed (from 0.5x to 3.5x).

[Related: Where to find new Spotify playlists when you don’t want to make your own]

It’s impossible to add audiobooks to playlists, but you can add them to the current queue, albeit in a rather clumsy way: You have to click the three dots next to an individual audiobook chapter (desktop and web) or tap and hold on a chapter (mobile) to find the Add to queue option. There’s no way to add entire audiobooks to the queue, which seems a bit of an oversight on Spotify’s part.

You can download audiobooks for offline listening whether you pay for Spotify or not—just tap or click on the downward arrow on the audiobook page. On mobile, you can also pin audiobooks to the top of the list in the Your Library tab. To do this, tap and hold on the audiobook you want to pin, then choose Pin audiobook from the menu that pops up.

The post How to listen to Spotify’s huge library of audiobooks appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Ever get the feeling that someone is watching you? Smartphone technology has revolutionized our lives but raised concerns about privacy. Location sharing, for example, can help us by letting navigation apps and ride-sharing services know where our devices (and usually us, too) are. However, sharing your location can lead to issues involving privacy, security, and even faster battery drain, especially if you don’t know it’s happening.

Thankfully, you can adjust your iPhone’s privacy settings to turn off location sharing, or at least minimize the amount of tracking information you’re sending elsewhere. This will allow you to control the data collected and shared with apps and services, and disabling Location Services is quick and easy on iOS. 

How to turn off location on an iPhone

1. Open the Settings app, then click on Privacy & Security.

2. Select Location Services.

3. Turn off the green toggle switch to the right of Location Services at the top of the screen.

4. Confirm that you want to disable location sharing by tapping Turn Off in the pop-up menu. Turning off Location Services will turn off location sharing for all apps on your iPhone at once.

• Note: Disabling Location Services will also make it unlikely that someone will be able to track your phone, if you’re worried about that.

How to turn off a hidden location option in your iPhone’s System Services

Buried among all the other options in the iPhone’s Location Services menu is System Services, and the options there are both important and easily overlooked. Disabling all or some of these will help you ensure greater privacy, increased battery life, and that it’s harder for companies and people to track your location.

[Related: Hidden iPhone settings that feel like secrets]

For the purposes of this guide, though, we’re focusing only on a feature called Significant Locations, which tracks where your device goes in an effort to figure out which places are particularly important to you.

1. Go to the Settings app, tap Privacy & Security, and select Location Services. Scroll down to the bottom of the page and select System Services.

2. Find Significant Locations and toggle off the switch next to it.

How to hide your location on an iPhone

Hiding your location on an iPhone is similar to turning off Location Services entirely. To hide your location from specific apps, such as Apple’s Find My app, follow the first three steps from above. After tapping on Location Services, scroll down to find the app that you don’t want to access your location (Find My, in our example). You can then turn off Location Services for that specific app (choose Never), or select While Using to limit its access to your location data.

You may have heard that airplane mode will hide your location, but it won’t—not entirely, at least. Airplane mode turns off all wireless connections on your iPhone, including cellular data, WiFi, and Bluetooth, so your phone won’t be able to share your location that way. But Location Services uses GPS, which operates independently, so some apps and services may still be able to see your device’s location while your phone is in airplane mode.

How to temporarily stop sharing your location on an iPhone

You can enable the Do Not Disturb mode to temporarily stop sharing your location on your iPhone. To do so, swipe down from the top right corner of your screen (or up from the bottom on older models) to open the Control Center. There, you will see a crescent moon icon representing Do Not Disturb. Tap on it to turn the mode on or off. When enabled, this feature will stop your device from sending location updates to apps and contacts.

As mentioned above, you can also manually turn off location sharing for specific apps by going to the Location Services settings and individually adjusting the permissions for each app. 

How to pull your iPhone location history from a computer

You can view your iPhone’s location history on a computer via iCloud’s Find My app. 

On your phone, go to the Settings app and tap on your Apple ID at the top. Then, select Find My and ensure the toggle next to Find My iPhone is turned on. Only then will the following steps work.

1. Log in to iCloud.com using your Apple ID and password.

2. From there, click the Find iPhone icon and select your device. You can view your iPhone’s location history on a map and access other features, such as remotely locking or erasing your device.

FAQs

The post How to turn off your location on an iPhone to stay under the radar appeared first on Popular Science.

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Think back to how you felt turning on your phone for the first time. That sparkling, uncluttered interface, speedy performance, and plenty of possibilities. You can actually feel that again whenever you like by completing a full factory reset of your iPhone or Android.

Resetting a phone is about more than just getting a fresh start, though: It can fix persistent bugs, get rid of unwanted apps and dangerous malware, and free up storage space on your device.

And if you’re worried about losing everything, don’t be. As long as you take some time to consider the potential pitfalls and back up your phone beforehand, you can reset your phone without losing any data. Let us guide you.

Before you reset your phone, make a plan

Resetting a phone wipes it clean and takes you back to the setup stage, so you’ll need to make sure you’ve backed up all your important data first. We’ve covered this in plenty of depth elsewhere, but it’s worth dropping some quick pointers here.

Mostly, backups are common sense: Think about what you have on your phone and make sure you have copies of everything you want to save on another device, on a disk drive, or in the cloud before you hit that reset button.

A warning if you use two-factor authentication

If you use your phone to prove your identity for accounts with two-factor authentication (2FA), know that this data might disappear when you reset it. You’ll need to make absolutely sure you can still get into your online accounts without 2FA, albeit temporarily.

What this means in practice will depend on your 2FA-enabled accounts and the 2FA method you’re using for each one. Do some diligent research and you should have nothing to worry about. Some accounts will give you backup codes to use if 2FA fails, so if you get one, make sure it’s in a safe, accessible place. For other accounts, it might be easier to just disable 2FA until you’re all set up on your phone again.

Apple and Google both let you use SMS codes as a backup to a 2FA authenticator app and verification code, so that’s an option (assuming you are keeping your SIM after you reset your phone). Beyond that, other authentication apps let you back up your logins to the cloud, which might work best for you, or you could transfer your authenticator app and its codes to another phone or tablet if you have one spare.

[Related: How to do two-factor authentication like a pro]

Once you’ve decided to reset your phone, you should also spend a few days noting exactly how you use it and how easily you’ll be able to get everything back the way you like it. Most software developers know phones get reset, lost, or stolen on a regular basis, so they should have planned for that, but it’s best to make sure.

Bear in mind, too, that backing up your phone can take time, depending on the speed of your connection.

How to reset an Android phone

Google has always developed its software with the cloud in mind, and everything from Gmail to Google Photos lives mostly online. However, you should still make sure that everything you need is in the cloud and that you don’t need anything stored on your phone (such as files downloaded from the web).

It’s also worth double-checking that your password manager is syncing all of your credentials from the apps on your phone—go to Settings, Passwords & accounts, and make sure the toggle next to Automatically sync app data is on. With that done, all you’ll need to remember is the username and password for your Google account. Don’t worry about having to pay for apps you already own—the Play Store will recognize you once you’ve signed into your Google account and will know what you’ve previously purchased.

You’ll find Android’s own backup process under System and Backup in Settings. You’ll then see a list of the items you’ll be backing up, which should include data such as contacts, text messages, and certain device settings (including WiFi passwords). You can tap on some of them (like Photos and videos or Google account data) to get more details and customize what you want to add to or remove from your backup. If you have any doubts about leaving information behind, we recommend reading through the official Google support document for resetting Pixel phones.

When you’re ready to reset your phone, make sure it’s plugged in and charging so the process doesn’t get interrupted. Open Settings, then choose System, Reset options, and Erase all data (factory reset). Android will then show you an overview of the data you’re about to wipe. Tap Erase all data, enter the lock screen PIN code, and tap Erase all data again to start the reset process. Once the reset is complete, you’ll find yourself back at the Android setup process.

How to reset an iPhone

Traditionally, Apple hasn’t been quite as savvy as Google when it comes to constantly syncing data to the cloud, but iCloud has improved in recent years. It can now store a substantial amount of information for you (from contacts to calendars) while you’re busy resetting your phone. When it comes time to reinstall apps, Apple’s App Store will remember what you’ve paid for, so you won’t need to purchase them again.

As for backups, iOS has a comprehensive backup option, which uses either a computer or iCloud. If you open Settings, tap your Apple ID at the top, and then pick iCloud, you can see the apps sending data to the web. You can also choose iCloud Backup from this list to make sure a backup occurred right before you decided to reset your phone.

[Related: The best ways to back up all your photos to the cloud]

Before you proceed, you should also read Apple’s thorough support document on resetting iPhones, just to ensure you’ve done everything necessary. That document also covers how to back up your phone if you need extra help with that (iOS will actually prompt you to create a backup when you reset it, if you haven’t run one in a while).

Finally, get your phone plugged in and charging to make sure the reset isn’t interrupted, then open Settings and pick General, Transfer or Reset iPhone, and choose whether you want to Reset the device or Erase All Content and Settings. You’ll be prompted to enter the passcode for your phone and possibly your Apple ID password to confirm your choice (this is a good way to ensure you remember your Apple ID password, as you’ll need it to sign in again). After the reset, your iPhone will reboot to the setup screen.

This story has been updated. It was originally published in 2021.

The post How to reset your phone without losing everything appeared first on Popular Science.

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I’ve been wanting to ditch Google Maps for a while but one thing held me back: offline maps. Apple Maps was, until recently, basically useless without an internet connection, and since I like to hike (which involves traveling to places without a cell signal) I was stuck with Google. 

No longer. One of the best new iOS 17 features is offline maps for Apple Maps. You can now select areas to download to your phone, allowing you to use turn-by-turn navigation and even search without an internet connection. 

Note that iOS 17 is currently a public beta. You can sign up for it to test the latest features, but you should know that signing up for any beta program is not without risk. If having a sneak peek at Apple’s new operating system version is not worth running into the occasional bug or error, then maybe you should wait until the official release in October 2023. But if you’re already using iOS 17, let’s dive in. 

How to download maps on Apple Maps

To get started, open Apple Maps, tap the circle with your photo or initials to the right of the search box and  choose Offline Maps in the menu. On the next screen, go to Download New Map. 

[Related: 5 uses for Google Maps beyond navigation]

Apple Maps will ask you to type the name of the city, region or general area you want to download. The app will show you a preview of the map you looked for and a cropping box which you can resize to select how much of it you want to download—just pinch to zoom in or out and select a bigger or smaller area. 

Bigger maps will take up more storage space, and you’ll be able to see how much at the bottom of the screen. If you’ll be covering a large area, be sure to free up space on your iPhone. When you’re satisfied, tap Download and your device will do its thing.

[Related: How to hide your house on every map app]

By default, your iPhone will only download offline maps while you’re connected to a Wi-Fi network, but if you need to, you can change that by tapping the Downloads option in the offline maps settings. To make sure you always have the latest possible information, Apple Maps will periodically and automatically update your offline maps, though the company doesn’t say how often the app will do this. If you’re not planning on using your downloaded map again, you can turn these automatic updates off in the settings. Finally, if you’re the sort of person who forgets to delete offline maps after a vacation and then wonders why their phone never has any available storage, you can turn on an optional Optimize Storage toggle switch, which will delete maps that you’re not using anymore after a certain period of time. 

The offline maps feature makes Apple Maps a true competitor to Google Maps, especially after you transfer your pinned items over. I’m not sure if I’ll ever install Google Maps on my iPhone again. 

The post How to use Apple Maps offline and finally ditch Google appeared first on Popular Science.

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Sonoma, the upcoming version of macOS, has some really cool features, including the ability to put widgets on the desktop. But the OS update also has one confounding change: clicking the desktop, by default, now hides all of your windows.

This is very annoying, but there’s a certain logic to it: if your desktop is full of widgets and files, you might want a quick way to access everything on it. But just because something makes sense from a design point of view, doesn’t mean you’re going to get used to it or even like it. Sonoma spares you of the windows’ exodus when you click a file or a widget, but I still found this feature disorienting, and I’m sure I’m not alone. The good news is that you can turn it off. 

[Related: 4 tips and hidden settings that will speed up macOS]

1. Head to System Settings, which you can open by clicking the Apple logo in the top left corner of your screen and clicking System Settings, or by opening the app with the cog icon in the dock. 

2. Go to Desktop & Dock in the left sidebar. 

3. Scroll down to find the Click wallpaper to reveal desktop option. Set this to Only in Stage Manager. 

4. Turn off Stage Manager. 

Stage Manager is one of the features Apple added to macOS Ventura back in 2022 and it’s an alternative way to manage the open windows on your Mac. When you enable this feature, only one window shows up on the screen at a time, while the rest are thumbnails you can see to the left. But clicking the desktop when Stage Manager is enabled means the desktop hides every time you click it no matter what, so you’re going to want to disable this feature to get your old desktop back.

[Related: Master your Mac by creating custom keyboard shortcuts]

After you’ve tweaked these settings, your desktop should work the way you’re used to, meaning you can get back to using your computer just like you’ve always had. That is until the next weirdness Apple decides to add. 

The post Stop macOS Sonoma from hiding your windows when you click the desktop appeared first on Popular Science.

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Canva is a graphic design software package available on the web, desktop and mobile, and it can help you make just about anything: from websites, documents, and whiteboards, to presentations, social media posts, posters, and newsletters. You can use the platform for free, but if you pay $15 a month, you’ll have access to more templates and stock content, and more advanced tools. 

Whatever you use Canva for, some tips will help you find more to explore. We’ll focus on the web interface, but you can find the same or similar features in the mobile and desktop apps too.

1. Switch the style up

In the toolbar pane on the left, click Design and then Styles to change up the look of your Canva creation: You’ll have a range of color schemes and font sets to pick from, organized into categories like Modern and Professional.

[Related: 5 ways to get started with Freeform, Apple’s app for creative thinkers]

Click on any style to apply it and see how it looks. All of the text and images you’ve put in place won’t change, but this feature is a quick and easy way to freshen up your layout without effort—especially if you’re stuck for inspiration.

2. Animate design elements

If whatever you’re working on is going to be viewed on a screen rather than in physical, printed form, you can take advantage of animations. Select any item or group of items in your design, and click Animate at the top to see your options. Pro subscribers will be able to do more, and get the ability to adjust the speed and direction of the animation.

Choose an animation style to see a preview.  When used well, adding animations to your presentation or website can really catch the eye, but be wary of overdoing them.

3. Leave comments for yourself (or others)

Right-click on any element on the page, and choose  Comment to attach text to different parts of your design, together with emojis and stickers. It’s a handy way of leaving reminders or notes to yourself.

Canva’s commenting feature is also useful when you’re collaborating with other people or sharing your designs. Everyone with access to the file will be able to access the comments, and you can @ mention other users to get their attention—they’ll get a notification telling them you’ve assigned them a task or have a comment for them they cannot miss.

4. Get everything positioned correctly

Having misaligned design elements can really hurt the visual aesthetic of your Canva creation, but there are tools available to make sure that doesn’t happen. To begin with, you can right-click on any item and choose Align to page to set its location in relation to the digital canvas as a whole.

There’s also a Position button in the toolbar at the top: Click it to set an element’s place down to the exact pixel. If you have multiple items selected (Shift+Click to select one by one or drag over them all using the mouse) you’ll also be able to quickly position them in relation to each other.

5. Pick out a color from anywhere

Select an element in your canvas to pick a color for it—just click the color swatch on the left of the toolbar. You’ll have a wide range of colors to choose from, but if you click the multicolored button with a + (plus) sign on it, you’ll access the color picker tool—it’s the one with a little pipette icon on it.

Use this feature to choose a color from anywhere on the design—you’ll even get a little zoomed-in grid to help you be as precise as possible. In fact, you can pick up a color from anywhere on your computer screen, so you can sample colors from websites or images you’ve got open in other tabs or have saved to your local hard drive without importing them to Canva.

6. Copy styles over

If you’re really happy with a font size and color combo,  or the border and tint you gave to an image, Canva lets you automatically copy this style over to other elements too.

[Related: Best presentation software of 2023]

Click the item whose style you want to take, then click the copy style button on the toolbar at the top: It looks like a paint roller. Finish by selecting another item on the page, and Canva will apply the style to it.

7. Apply colors from an image

Sometimes the most difficult part of creating a design is figuring out a combination of colors to use. But to make things easier, Canva lets you use one of your images as a foundation to develop your own color palette.

Just right-click on an image, choose Apply colors to page, and the platform will apply the scheme of the photo to the other items in your design. It’s a really good way of making sure everything looks cohesive and fits together visually.

The post 7 tips to unleash your creativity on Canva appeared first on Popular Science.

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Since Apple’s AirTags launched in 2021, they’ve allowed people to keep track of their bags, wallets, cameras, suitcases, and whatever else they can attach to. You can see their locations on a map on trusted phones, tablets, and laptops, and even get alerts when the button-shaped device goes out of range.

As useful as these gadgets are, there are also valid concerns about people using them for the unauthorized tracking of items and even other people. This is why Apple developed anti-stalking tech you can use to detect the close proximity of AirTags that don’t belong to you. 

The good news is that the software is also available to Android users, which means you can protect yourself even if you don’t own Apple hardware.

Tracking your own AirTags

Right now, you’ll only be able to set up a new AirTag using an iPhone or an iPad. Once you take the device out of the package, pull out the tab next to the battery to activate it. Your Apple phone or tablet should automatically notice it’s nearby: Tap on the Connect message that appears on screen to configure the AirTag.

[Related: How to track down your lost devices]

You can then follow your AirTags in the Find My app on iOS, iPadOS, and macOS. The options are the same no matter what device you’re using to track it: You can get your AirTag to make a sound, locate it if it’s nearby, and turn notifications on and off for when you leave it behind somewhere.

There’s also a lost mode option that you can enable if a particular AirTag isn’t showing up on the map. This feature enlists the help of hundreds of millions of Apple devices owned by other people—in an encrypted, anonymous way, according to the company—to see if the tiny gadget and whatever it’s attached to can be found. 

If someone should come close enough to your AirTag to identify it, you’ll both get an alert. On your end, you’ll get a notification saying your AirTag has been found, and its location will be updated in the Find My app. Whoever found your gadget will get a notification with your contact information (phone number and email) and a brief message, if you added one.

How to detect if an AirTag is tracking you

You don’t have to look far to find reports of AirTags being used to keep tabs on people without permission—despite this being a criminal offense. To counter this, Apple has introduced a variety of anti-stalking measures.

Unless you’ve changed certain device settings, an iPhone or iPad will alert you by default if an AirTag you don’t own is moving with you over time. To make sure these options are enabled, go to Settings and head to Privacy & Security and Location Services: Location Services should be on, and under System Services, Find My iPhone and Significant Locations should be on. You also need to make sure you’re not in airplane mode and Bluetooth is on. Finally, head to the Find My app, open the Me tab, and make sure Tracking Notifications are turned on.

 If an unknown AirTag is tracking you, you’ll see an alert to this effect on your device, and you’ll be able to check a trail of red dots on the Find My app that shows how far the gadget has moved with you.

The next step finding out where the AirTag is. You can tap Play Sound in the Find My app to have the tracker emit a noise, which might help you figure out its location. If you have an iPhone 11 or newer, your device is equipped with ultra-wideband (UWB) tech, so you can also tap Find Nearby to get detailed directions to where the AirTag is.

[Related: How to find a lost phone]

Google has built a similar anti-stalking feature into Android. From Settings, choose Safety and emergency, and then Unknown tracker alerts. You can enable or disable automatic scanning, as well as run a manual scan to see if an unknown AirTag has been traveling along with you. As with iPhones, you’ll be able to have the tracker make a sound or see how long it’s been with you on a map.

Additionally, an AirTag that’s been separated from its owner and on the move will occasionally emit a sound on its own. Hold any NFC-enabled device (this includes most modern phones) up to the AirTag to see details about it. The information on screen will show you contact information for the AirTag (if the owner has provided it) and put the tracker in lost mode. You’ll also see instructions for disabling the AirTag, which basically entails removing its battery. 

It’s up to you whether you report the missing AirTag and reunite it with its owner, or disable it completely. If it’s attached to someone else’s bag, chances are it’s genuinely been lost and needs to be returned, whereas if it’s been dropped into your own bag it’s much more likely someone is trying to keep tabs on your location without your knowledge. Whatever you choose to do, make staying safe your number one priority.

The post How to track your AirTags—and protect yourself when they’re not yours appeared first on Popular Science.

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You thought convincing your friends to swap WhatsApp for Telegram or Signal would be the hardest thing about switching messaging apps. But then you realized you’d lose your precious sticker collection.

Only you don’t have to. Whether you walk on the iOS or Android side of the street, you can move all of your stickers from WhatsApp to Telegram or Signal. It’s slightly unintuitive, and will probably take a while if you have an iPhone, but at least you won’t have to throw years of sticker-collecting out the proverbial window. And then you can go ahead and delete WhatsApp without looking back.

How to export WhatsApp stickers to Telegram 

On an Android phone

1. From the Files app, scroll down to Internal storage and follow this path: Android > Media > com.whatsapp > WhatsApp > Media > WhatsApp Stickers. Don’t be surprised if you find a large number of WebP files in that folder—it holds your personal collection of stickers and every single one you’ve ever received. Even the bad ones.

• Note: We tried this path on a Pixel 7 Pro, but there’s a lot of variation among Android phones, so the steps on your device might be slightly different depending on its manufacturer. 

2. Select the stickers you want to export. If you want to trim the fat and grab only the best of the best, long-press one file to activate selection mode and tap on the rest of the files you want to export. If you think you can leave nothing behind, tap the three dots in the top right corner of your screen to Select all. 

3. Once you’re done, hit the three dots again, tap Move to, and select an easily accessible folder on your phone—we moved our stickers to the Downloads folder.

• Note: If you have a large number of stickers, it might be easier to move them to your laptop and import them to Telegram using the platform’s desktop client. To do that, you can use Android’s Nearby feature or transfer the files to your computer using a USB cable. You can also back up your stickers to a cloud service (like iCloud or Google Drive) that you can easily access through a web browser. Just remember that you’ll have to download them to a local folder on your computer before uploading them to Telegram. 

[Related: Make a Memoji that actually looks like you]

4. To import your stickers into Telegram, you’ll be using the app’s official sticker bot. On the app, use the search feature (the magnifying glass in the upper right corner of the screen) to summon it. 

5. Type /newpack into the message field and follow the instructions.

6. Upload your stickers as files. Tap the paper clip icon on the right of the message field and choose File. Use your device’s file explorer to get to the folder where you saved your stickers and send them to the bot—you can do this one by one or in bulk.  

7.  The sticker bot will ask you for one or two emojis that best describe your sticker. This will help it know what the sticker is about so it can recommend it when you’re messaging your friends. 

• Note: If you upload multiple stickers, you’ll only have to provide an emoji for the first one. This is less of a hassle, but it’ll hinder Telegram’s ability to provide accurate sticker recommendations in the future.  

8. When you’re done, type /publish. Telegram’s sticker bot will ask you to give a unique short name to your pack, which will serve to create a URL you can share with your contacts so they can also use your stickers. 

9. Tap the URL and on the next screen finish by hitting Add stickers. They will be easily accessible every time you tap the sticker icon to the left of the message field.  

On an iPhone

You can’t transfer WhatsApp stickers anywhere using an iPhone, but you can use WhatsApp’s web platform and Telegram’s sticker bot to transfer stickers from your computer. It’s easy, but might take a while.

1. Open WhatsApp web in your browser and find a sticker you like in a chat. Right-click on it and choose Save image as to store the sticker as a WebP file. Repeat this step to save as many stickers as you want.

• Note: You won’t get the option to save the image on WhatsApp’s desktop client, so make sure you use the web interface on your browser. 

[Related: Emojis and reaction GIFs make Slack better. Here’s how to create them.]

2. Open Telegram in your browser and use the search feature in the left corner of your screen to summon the app’s official sticker bot.

3. Type /newpack into the message field and follow the instructions.

4. Upload your stickers as files. Tap the paper clip icon on the right of the message field and choose File. Use your device’s file explorer to get to the folder where you saved your stickers and send them to the bot—you can do this one by one or in bulk.  

5. The sticker bot will ask you for one or two emojis that best describe your sticker. This will help it know what it’s about so that it can then recommend it to you when you’re messaging your friends. 

• Note: If you upload multiple stickers, you’ll only have to provide an emoji for the first one. This is less of a hassle, but it’ll hinder Telegram’s ability to provide accurate sticker recommendations in the future.  

6. When you’re done, type /publish. Telegram’s sticker bot will ask you to give a unique short name to your pack, which will serve to create a URL you can share with your contacts so they can also use your stickers.

7. Tap the URL, and finish on the next screen by hitting Add stickers. They will be easily accessible every time you tap the sticker icon to the left of the message field.  

How to export WhatsApp stickers to Signal 

Good news: Transferring WhatsApp stickers to Signal is a lot easier than moving them to Telegram. The key is using Signal’s desktop app. 

First, export your WhatsApp stickers as WebP files. How you do this will depend on your phone’s operating system. Click to skip directly to the steps for iPhone, or continue for the Android how-to:

On an Android phone

1. From the Files app, scroll down to Internal storage and follow this path: Android > Media > com.whatsapp > WhatsApp > Media > WhatsApp Stickers. There you’ll find WebP files with your personal collection of stickers and every single one you’ve ever received. Even the bad ones.

• Note: We tried this path on a Pixel 7 Pro, but there’s a lot of variation among Android phones, so the steps on your device might be slightly different depending on its manufacturer. 

2. Select the stickers you want to export. If you want to trim the fat and grab only the best of the best, long-press one file to activate selection mode and tap on the rest of the files you want to export. If you think you can leave nothing behind, tap the three dots in the top right corner of your screen to Select all. 

3. Once you’re done, you’ll need to transfer the files to your computer. You have three options:

On an iPhone

1. Open WhatsApp web in your browser and find a sticker you like in a chat. Right-click on it and choose Save image as to store the sticker as a WebP file. Repeat this step to save as many stickers as you want.

• Note: You won’t get the option to save the image on WhatsApp’s desktop client, so make sure you use the web interface on your browser.

2. Continue below.

Upload your stickers to Signal

Once your stickers are saved to your computer, you can upload them to Signal. 

1. Open the Signal desktop app, go to File, and click Create/upload sticker pack.  

2. Click the plus sign to open your computer’s file explorer or drag and drop your stickers. The app will show you thumbnails of what you’ve uploaded—click the X in the upper right corner of each sticker to remove it, or click the plus sign at the end of the selection to add more. Finish by hitting Next. 

3. Click the emoji icon in the upper right corner of each thumbnail to associate an emoji with your sticker. Signal will use this as a hint to know what your sticker is and recommend it to you when you’re messaging your friends. Click Next when you’re done. 

4. Give your sticker pack a title, an author name, and a cover image. This will help identify your stickers if you want to share them later. 

5. Hit Next and confirm your choice in the next dialogue box by clicking Upload. Your stickers will automatically upload to Signal and you’ll be able to immediately use them in a chat. 

To manage your sticker packs, go to Signal on mobile or the web, open any chat, click or tap the sticker icon, and then hit the plus sign. You should see your sticker icons under Installed, and you’ll be able to remove them by clicking Uninstall on desktop and web, or the X on mobile.  

This story has been updated. It was originally published in 2021.

The post How to transfer your WhatsApp stickers to Signal and Telegram appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

The average American subscribes to four streaming services. Maybe you’re starting to feel overwhelmed by all of those options. What about that free trial Apple TV subscription you signed up for to binge-watch Hijack but forgot to cancel before the fee hit? You’re not alone—many people fall into the same trap and end up paying for services they no longer use or need. If you’re looking to cut down on streaming fees and want to kick one to the curb, canceling Apple TV+ is simple (thankfully).

What’s the difference between Apple TV and Apple TV+?

Apple offers two different services for streaming content. Apple TV is a media player device that lets you stream content from various sources onto your large-screen TV. You don’t need a subscription for it. Apple TV+, meanwhile, is a subscription-based streaming service that provides Apple-produced original content, professional sports, and a back catalog of films and TV shows. The streaming service is available via an app on your phone, iPad, computer, and smart TV. So if you’re wondering, “How do I cancel Apple TV?” make sure not to confuse the subscription service with the device itself. 

How to cancel Apple TV+

You can easily cancel Apple TV+ with just a few clicks. If you want to get rid of your Apple TV player and remote as well, donate them, resell them, or take them to a collection point for e-waste recycling.

There are four different ways to get rid of Apple’s streaming service—choose the one that works best for you:

• Cancel from your Apple TV
• Cancel from an internet browser
• Cancel from an iPhone, iPad, or iPod Touch
• Cancel from the Apple TV+ app

Cancel Apple TV+ from your Apple TV media player

1. Open Settings on the Apple TV.

2. Go to Users and Accounts > [account name] Subscriptions, and select a subscription.

3. Follow the on-screen instructions to change or cancel your subscription.

How to cancel Apple TV+ from an internet browser

1. Open a web browser. Go to tv.apple.com and click the blue Sign In button.

2. Enter your Apple ID and password.

3. Navigate to the Settings in the upper right corner of the screen.

4. In the Subscriptions section, click Manage.

5. Find the Apple TV+ subscription and select Cancel Subscription.

6. Click Cancel Subscription on the next menu to confirm.

How to cancel Apple TV+ on an iPhone, iPad, or iPod Touch 

1. Open the Settings app on your device, then tap on your Apple ID at the top of the screen. 

2. Select Media & Purchases, then View Account.

3. Find the Subscriptions field and tap on it. 

4. Select Apple TV+ to access the streaming service’s subscription information.

5. Tap the red Cancel Subscription button.

6. Confirm the cancelation.

How to cancel your Apple TV+ subscription in the app

1. Open the Apple TV+ app and click on your profile in the upper right corner.

2. Tap on your Apple ID.

3. Take a peek above at the steps for canceling your Apple TV+ subscription from an iOS or iPadOS device and proceed from Step 3 to finish the job.

FAQs

The post How to cancel Apple TV+ because you probably have too many streaming services appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Knowing how to find WiFi passwords on your iPhone can be a lifesaver. Sure, your phone usually saves the passwords for all the networks you use, allowing you to move seamlessly from WiFi to cell data to WiFi as you go about your daily routine. While this eliminates the need to memorize passwords, there are times when you may need to know what a password actually is.

Perhaps your iPhone won’t connect to WiFi and you need to reenter the password. Maybe you want to add another device to a network or share the WiFi password with a friend or colleague. If you don’t know how to find your saved network passwords, you could be left stranded offline. Thankfully, there are several methods you can use to track down that elusive login information and get online.

Start by finding your iOS version

How easy or hard it is to find WiFi passwords on your iPhone depends on the iOS version you’re using. To find that information, open your iPhone’s Settings app, then tap General > About and look for iOS version. If you’re running iOS 16 or later, you can see WiFi passwords for the network you’re currently connected to, as well as any network you’ve connected to in the past.

Related: 24 hidden iPhone settings that feel like secrets

If you’re using an earlier version of iOS, finding those network passwords will take a bit more work. First, you’ll have to access the WiFi network’s router settings to view the password, which means you’ll need to have the router’s administrative username and password. And since you have to be connected to the network to access the router, you also won’t be able to use an iPhone with an older version of iOS to access passwords for any previously connected networks.

How to use an iPhone to find the WiFi password for a connected network

1. If you have an iPhone with iOS 16 or later, begin by opening the Settings app, then tapping Wi-Fi.

2. The network your phone is connected to will be located under the Wi-Fi switch and have a blue checkmark to its left. Tap the information icon (an “i” in a circle) to the right of the network name.

3. Touch the Password field and enter your passcode or use facial recognition to reveal the WiFi password.

4. If you want to share your WiFi password with someone else, tap Copy, then paste it into a message.

How to find saved WiFi passwords for previous networks

1. Open the Settings app and tap Wi-Fi.

2. Touch the Edit button in the upper right-hand corner of your screen. Enter your passcode or use facial recognition to proceed. 

3. Once in the Edit menu, you’ll see a complete list of WiFi networks you’ve used in the past. Tap the information icon (“i” button) for any of these networks, then click on the Password field to view the password. Touch Copy if you want to paste the password into a message.

How to find a WiFi password using router settings

If you have an older iPhone, you won’t be able to access the WiFi password directly from the phone itself. You’ll need to get into the router settings, which means you’ll need to be connected to the network and know the router’s username and password.

1. Open the Settings app on your iPhone, then touch Wi-Fi. 

2. Hit the information icon (“i” button) next to the network you want to find the password for.

3. Scroll down until you see the router’s IP address.

4. Press and hold your finger on the IP address to copy it. 

5. Open a browser and copy the IP address into the address bar. 

6. Enter the router’s administrative username and password to access the router’s settings, including the network password. 

7. Navigate to the network’s access settings to find the WiFi password. Exactly where these settings are located will vary depending on the type and brand of router you have. 

[Related: Stay connected remotely with the best mobile hotspots and the best hotspot plans.]

FAQs

The post How to find the WiFi password on an iPhone in a few simple steps appeared first on Popular Science.

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Whether you tried the app and didn’t like it or straight up forgot you ever installed it, deleting your Snapchat account is a smart idea if you’re not using it anymore. Although the platform claims not to store any of your messages, its privacy policy states that it stores your personal data and holds onto videos, photos, and messages for 30 days. Even so, you should consider deleting the account to ensure your data is truly gone.

Ready to break up with the white ghost and make more room for your TikToks? We have all the information you’ll need to delete Snapchat and leave it behind forever.

First, download your Snapchat data

Before you delete social media accounts, you should grab all the information you don’t have stored elsewhere. To download and back up your Snapchat data, you must have a validated email address where your files can be sent. If you’d rather not save anything, you can skip right to our steps on how to delete Snapchat.

How to download Snapchat data on Android and iOS

If you want to download Snapchat data directly from the app onto your phone, follow these steps:

1. Open the app and click on your Snapchat profile Bitmoji in the upper left corner of your screen.

2. Go to Settings by tapping the gear icon in the upper right corner of your screen.

3. Scroll down to Privacy Controls and tap My Data.

4. Snapchat will give you an overview of the data it can send you. Select or deselect the data you want, and click Next in the bottom-right corner of the screen.

5. Enter a date range for the data you wish to download, then add your email address. Select Submit at the bottom right corner of the screen.

6. Snapchat will send you an email with a link to download a ZIP file of your data. Open the email and click the hyperlink under “click here.”

7. You will then need to log into your Snapchat account via a mobile web browser.

8. Once logged in, click See exports.

9. Click Download to save the ZIP file that holds your Snapchat data. All of it will be stored on your mobile device. If you don’t have enough space, open the email on a laptop or desktop computer and save it there.

Download your Snapchat data from the web

If you want to download Snapchat data directly from the web onto your computer, follow these steps:

1. Go to accounts.snapchat.com in your web browser and log in with your personal account. Click on My Data.

2. Click on See exports. Similar to the app, you will see the data that’s available for export. Then Download. You should be able to immediately download your ZIP file to your desktop.

How to delete Snapchat or just deactivate it

Now that your data is backed up and secure, it’s time to delete Snapchat. However, it’s important to note that when you delete your account, it will initially just be deactivated, and you can log back in within 30 days to reactivate it. If you don’t log back into your account after 30 days, your Snapchat account will be gone forever.

How to delete or deactivate Snapchat from the Android or iPhone app

1. Launch the Snapchat app on your mobile device. Tap your Snapchat profile icon at the top of the screen to open your profile and go to Settings.

2. Scroll down, and under the Account Actions section, tap Delete Account.

3. Enter your username and password, and tap Continue. The next screen will let you know your Snapchat account is in the deactivation period.

4. Return to the login screen, enter the username and password associated with your Snapchat account again, and tap Continue. An “Account Deactivated” screen will remind you that your Snapchat account is in the 30-day deactivation period, and Snapchat will delete your account if you don’t log back in within 30 days. For added phone security, check in after 30 days to ensure the account has actually been deleted.

How to delete or deactivate your Snapchat account from the web

1. Go to accounts.snapchat.com in your web browser and log in with your personal account. Select the gear icon and go to Account Settings.

2. Select Delete my account.

3. You will get a warning message about the 30-day deletion window, and Snapchat will delete your account if you don’t log back in during that time. Just make sure to check in after 30 days to ensure the account is actually gone.

FAQs

The post How to delete Snapchat and say goodbye to the ghost appeared first on Popular Science.

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There are two settings panels in Google Chrome for desktop: One appears when you choose Settings from the application menu, and one pops up when you type chrome://flags into the address bar and hit Enter.

These Chrome flags are more experimental settings aimed at power users, but anyone can use of them. They let you control the appearance of the browser, tweak performance, speed up downloading, and plenty more.

To find the ones you’re interested in, use the search box at the top of the flags list, and enable or disable them using the drop-down menus on the right-hand side. Here, we have some suggestions. 

If you’d rather use Chrome in dark mode all the time, find the #enable-force-dark flag and set it to Enabled. Every site you visit from then on will get the message to show its contents in dark mode, no matter what the rest of your software is doing.

2. See quick previews of open tabs

3. Keep more web pages in the cache

Locate the #back-forward-cache flag, set it to Enabled, and Chrome will keep more pages cached locally on your computer as you make use of the forward and backward buttons in the browser. 

This improves browsing speed on slower or less stable internet connections (if you’re going forward and backward a lot, at least) because pages won’t have to be loaded from the web each time.

4. Speed up downloads

Parallel downloading is where an application requests a download several times, which should speed up transfer times in a lot of cases. If you don’t mind the extra bandwidth this can take up, you can switch on the feature by finding the #enable-parallel-downloading flag and switching it to Enabled.

6. Fill out forms faster

To save you time when filling out forms and making payments on the web, Chrome will keep information such as addresses and credit card details stored for you if you want. By default, it will suggest details as you move through a form, giving you the option to select suggestions as you go.

But if you switch the #how-autofill-type-predictions flag to Enabled, then these suggestions will automatically be put in for you, no typing required. Assuming Chrome identifies the form fields correctly, it should save you time.

7. Get more privacy with incognito mode

Google Chrome’s incognito mode allows you to surf the web at your leisure without leaving any trace in the cache, history, and other browsing information. But when you’re playing a piece of audio or video, your device’s media player gets involved, and it might disclose the content you are consuming to others via your gadget’s lock screen, for example. 

To keep your operating system out of the equation, enable the #hide-incognito-media-metadata flag and ensure your incognito session is actually as private as it can be. 

8. Enable live captions on Chrome

There are several apps out there with their own live caption capabilities, but for everything else you play on Chrome, you can use the ​​#enable-accessibility-live-caption flag. This setting will generate captions for media playing on Google’s browser, even if the website you’re visiting doesn’t support them. 

This feature is only available in the desktop version of Google Chrome, which means you cannot use it on your mobile device. Luckily, if you have an Android phone, you won’t have to worry about that because these gadgets have a built-in live caption feature you can use.

9. Optimize Chrome for touchscreens  

Some laptop models include touchscreens, turning these devices into computer-tablet hybrids. Unfortunately, not all desktop programs and apps, including Google Chrome, are optimized to work on touchscreens. 

[Restore: How to clean a computer screen without destroying it]

This is where the #top-chrome-touch-ui can help. The setting bridges the gap between your shiny new touchscreen laptop and the desktop version of Chrome, making scrolling and navigating more fluid. 

10. Restore old flags—temporarily 

As we mentioned at the beginning of this story, Google Chrome flags are experimental. This doesn’t just mean that they might glitch, but also that they come and go: Some become part of the browser’s built-in features, while others disappear into oblivion. 

The post 10 Google Chrome flags you need to turn on right now appeared first on Popular Science.

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There are lots of reasons why you might want to learn how to take a screenshot on your computer or phone: proving you finally completed that video game, recording a website layout for safekeeping, or even making a custom wallpaper image from your favorite movie for your desktop. 

Whatever the reason, here’s how to get it done on all the major platforms, whether it’s Windows, macOS, Android, or iOS.

How to take a screenshot on Windows

Figuring out how to take a screenshot on Windows is simple: Just make a simple tap on the PrtSc (print screen) button and a shot of your computer’s desktop will automatically save to the clipboard. You can then paste the screen grab into an image editor and save it in whatever file format you want. Windows doesn’t make any sound or show you any animation when you take a screenshot, so don’t be surprised if it seems like nothing is happening. Just go to your favorite image editor, hit Paste (or Ctrl+V) and you should see your screenshot. 

Depending on your keyboard or the make of your laptop, the PrtSc button may only be accessible while pressing another key like Fn, Shift, or Ctrl. If hitting PrtSc by itself gets you nowhere, try combining it with one of those keys until you get the desired results.  

If your keyboard has one, you can also use the Windows key to take a screenshot: Press Win+PrtScn and the image will be automatically saved into a Screenshots folder within your account’s Pictures location. Meanwhile, Alt+PrtScn will grab only the currently active window and copy it to the clipboard. You may also need an additional key like Fn or Shift for these shortcuts.  

[Related: 10 cool features to use Windows 11]

You can get help from various utilities, too. On Windows 11, locate the new and improved Snipping Tool (remember, it’s called Snip & Sketch on Windows 10): You can find it using the search tool on the taskbar or by hitting Win+Shift+S to summon a simplified version of it. Use the crosshair tool to select an area on your screen—the moment you let go of the left mouse button, Windows will add the screenshot to your clipboard. 

Use the buttons at the top of your screen for more options—the Freeform Snip button (second to the right), allows you to make selections in any shape you want; the Window Snip button adds a screenshot of the current open window to your clipboard; and finally, the Fullscreen Snip takes a picture of your entire screen and saves it to the clipboard. You can also use the dialogue box that pops up in the bottom right corner of your screen to open the image on the Snipping Tool app and edit it. 

Take note: You won’t get some of the Snipping Tool’s features when you summon it with the keyboard shortcut. But if you search for the full version of the app, you’ll be able to take screenshots with three and 10-second delays, as well as annotate pictures, crop them, and even measure them. Alternatively, you can use the Xbox Game Bar app that comes with Windows 11 to capture grabs from games.

If you need even more options and features, consider tools such as Dropbox (free, and it has its own screenshot feature) and Snagit ($63).

How to take a screenshot on macOS

Apple keyboards don’t have a PrtScn key—or, of course, a Windows key—so the shortcuts are completely different. Ctrl+Shift+Cmd+3 copies the current screen contents to the clipboard, but you can also drop the Ctrl part and just do Shift+Cmd+3 to save a PNG file directly to the desktop.

If you just want to capture part of the screen and send it to the clipboard for subsequent pasting, use Ctrl+Shift+Cmd+4. Then drag the mouse to outline an area of the screen or press the spacebar to capture a particular window. As before, if you leave out the Ctrl button, your Mac will save the image to your desktop rather than copy it to the clipboard: that’s as simple as hitting Shift+Cmd+4

[Related: 38 advanced Mac keyboard shortcuts for productivity]

Changing the number key to a 5 will give you more options. Press Shift+Cmd+5 to summon MacOS’s built-in Screenshot tool—a small menu bar that appears at the bottom of your screen. The first button to the left will take a screenshot of your entire screen, including the app dock; choose the second button, and your Mac will take a screenshot of the window you select with your mouse. The third button will show you a selection of the screen you can reposition and resize by using your mouse and the circles on each of the selection’s corners. Hit enter to take the image, which the system will save as a PNG file to your desktop. Hit Esc if you decide to abandon your screenshotting adventure once you’ve launched this tool.  

This tool also offers two more buttons to record the entire screen of your Mac or a particular open app. You can also hit the Options button to choose a new location to save your screenshots, access a timer, and see other options, such as remembering the tool you used the last time. 

As on Windows, there are numerous utilities that will help you in your screen-grabbing endeavors. You have a couple of free options, like Lightshot Screenshot and Dropbox. If you’re willing to part with $10, SnapNDrag can give you a few more options in terms of annotations and customizations.

How to take a screenshot on Android

On the majority of Android devices, you can press the volume down button and the power button together to take a screenshot. The screen should flash, and you’ll see a notification that a grab has been captured. Tap this notification if you want to share or edit the image. 

Pixel phone owners can also take screenshots by tapping the back of their phone twice. To set that nifty feature up, go to Settings, scroll down to System, and choose Gestures. The first item on the list will let you use the double tap as a trigger for multiple actions: toggle on the switch next to Use double tap and choose Take screenshot from the list. 

If you need to find the screenshot afterward, it’ll be in your device’s Photos app. If you have Google Photos, tap on Library in the bottom right corner of your screen, then choose the Screenshots folder under Photos on device. You can also go straight to the Files app, tap on Images, and then choose Screenshots at the top of your screen.

That said, Android devices come with all kinds of manufacturer-made software skins running on them, so the shortcut might be slightly different depending on the make and model of your phone. Still, most manufacturers have adopted the same key combo—on both Samsung Galaxy and HTC phones, for example, just press the power and volume down buttons simultaneously to take a grab. If you want to go hands-free, just engage the Google Assistant and ask it to take a screenshot for you.

How to take a screenshot on an iPhone or iPad

Capturing the screen on iOS and iPadOS devices is just as easy as it is on Android devices. 

On iPhones with Face ID, simultaneously press and release the side button and volume up button. On older models, combine the Home button and the side button (or the Sleep/Wake button). It’s much the same with iPads: Simultaneously press and release either the top button and the volume up button, or the Home button and top button. The screen will flash and the picture will be saved to a dedicated Screenshots album on your iPhone or iPad. Then you can review or share it by opening up Photos.

On iPads, you can also set up a specific gesture to take screenshots even more easily. Go to Settings and on the menu on the left choose General. Under Corner gestures, toggle on the switch next to Allow finger to swipe from corner, and choose Screenshot from either the Left corner swipe or the Right corner swipe options depending on what you want. To take the screenshot, just swipe from your chosen corner, and you’re done. 

[Related: The best screenshot and screen recording apps for your phone]

But wait, there’s more! It’s also possible to get your phone or tablet’s display up on a computer and capture it from there. On macOS, connect your device via USB, then run QuickTime, and choose File and New Movie Recording. If you select iPhone (or iPad) from the drop-down menu by the red record button, the device’s display will appear. To capture the window, use the Ctrl+Shift+Cmd+4, spacebar, and click combination we mentioned in the macOS section above.

On Windows, you can use an AirPlay client such as LonelyScreen or Mirroring360, then broadcast the iPhone or iPad screen to your laptop or desktop using the AirPlay feature built into Apple’s operating system. To do so, swipe down from the top right corner (or up from the bottom of the screen on some devices) to open the Control Center, then tap on Screen Mirroring to get connected.

Got all that? Feel free to use your new skills and take a screenshot of any part of this article you’d like to save for reference. 

This story has been updated. It was originally published in 2017.

The post How to take a screenshot on any device (we know you want to) appeared first on Popular Science.

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If for whatever reason you’re done with WhatsApp, you can always delete it. But removing the app from your devices will only get you so far. Your account will still be active and your contacts will still be able to message you—you just won’t get any of their texts. 

To truly quit Meta’s messaging app, you’ll need to delete your WhatsApp account—but we wouldn’t recommend leaving all of your data behind. The process is a bit longer than just hitting “Delete,” but you’ll be done in no time. 

2. Head to Chats and tap Chats backup. You’ll be able to see the backup settings for your device (Google Drive for Android phones, iCloud for iOS devices), and tweak how often WhatsApp saves your messages to the cloud. 

3. Manually back up your data by tapping the Back Up button. If you change your mind about deleting WhatsApp later, you can use this backup to restore your chat history easily. 

• Note: This process may take a while depending on the last time you saved your message data or how much of a WhatsApp power user you are. Let it finish completely before proceeding. 

4. Even if your WhatsApp backup sits tight on the cloud, you won’t be able to read that data. So, if you’re sure you want to get rid of the messaging app, you’ll need to export chats into text files—do that by opening an individual or group chat. 

• On Android, tap the three-dot menu, More, and then Export chat.
• On iOS, tap the name of the person or group chat and select Export chat. 

6. On the next dialogue box, you’ll need to choose whether you want to include media (photos, stickers, videos, and GIFs). WhatsApp limits the size of chat exports so they can send them over email—if you choose to include media, the export will only include the last 10,000 messages, whereas if you decide to leave media behind, the export will include the last 40,000 exchanges.

7. Use the sharing feature on your phone to choose an app to export your chat history to. If you want to back it up to the cloud, you can send it directly to Google Drive or iCloud, depending on the make of your device.

8. Repeat steps 4 to 7 with as many chats as you want.   

[Related: 6 alternatives to WhatsApp]

How to save your account information on WhatsApp

Unlike your chat history, to save your account information you’ll have to request it. Keep in mind that saving your account information will only serve as a reference—you won’t be able to use these files to restore your account after you permanently delete it. 

1. On Settings, go to Account.

2. Tap Request account info and choose Request report. As with other Meta-owned platforms such as Facebook and Instagram, you’ll need to wait around 48 to 72 hours for WhatsApp to bundle up all of your data, so be patient. 

3. When your information is ready, you’ll get an automated message on the app with a download link. You’ll have a limited amount of time to use. Most platforms will only give you a few weeks to get your stuff, but WhatsApp will keep the link active for a few weeks. 

4. After WhatsApp notifies you, go to the Request account info menu.

5. Tap the Download report button. The platform will download a ZIP file with HTML and JSON documents—you won’t be able to see these files within the app, so you’ll have to export them. 

6. When your report is fully downloaded, tap Export report and confirm your choice.

7. Pick an external app to share the report. The easiest option is to send a copy of the report to your email or upload it to your cloud storage service of choice.

8. (Optional) You can permanently delete your WhatsApp account information report from your phone. To do that, tap Delete report and confirm your choice. 

In case you’re having second thoughts, we’re happy to tell you that at this point, your WhatsApp account is still intact and you don’t have to go through with the deletion if you don’t want to. But if, on the other hand, you’re convinced WhatsApp is not for you, go ahead to the next (and final) step.

How to permanently delete your WhatsApp account

To hammer the last nail in the coffin of your WhatsApp account, go to Account and then Delete my account. Enter your registered phone number and hit DELETE MY ACCOUNT. This will delete your entire chat history, remove you from all of your WhatsApp groups, and obliterate your Google Drive chat backup.

WhatsApp may take up to 30 days to complete the deletion process, but the company is adamant in stating that this is not a grace period. According to their support site, you won’t be able to access your information again during this time. 

The post How to permanently delete your WhatsApp account without losing your precious chats appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Best Overall		Ergotron HX Single Ultrawide Monitor Arm		SEE IT	Heavy-duty and widely compatible, this highly maneuverable option will improve any modern monitor set up.
Best Height-Adjustable		Mount-It! Sit-Stand Wall Mount		SEE IT	If your wall can accommodate it, your workflow will appreciate what is essentially a complete standing desk.
Best Budget		VIVO Full-Motion Wall Mount		SEE IT	Standard users with the time to invest will appreciate the money saved on this monitor mount.

Installing monitor wall mounts is a great way to upgrade the home office or gaming battlestation. While the best wall mounts for TVs can simply affix onto the wall once a viewing sweet spot has been established, it is often advantageous for monitor wall mounts to have swiveling arms and increased maneuverability. In this way, the monitor can be adjusted for an individual’s height. The monitor should also be able to be moved closer or further away for different purposes, such as study or casual viewing of streamed programs. These mounts will create a good environment for the home office, where people spend an increasing amount of time. From ergonomic designs to simple installations, these are the best monitor wall mounts.

• Best overall: Ergotron HX Single Ultrawide Monitor Arm
• Best height-adjustable: Mount-It! Sit-Stand Wall Mount
• Best dual: Mount-It! Dual-Monitor Wall Mount
• Best large VESA: Mount-It! Full-Motion Monitor Wall Bracket
• Easy-to-assemble: Antimbee No-Stud Drywall TV Mount
• Best budget: VIVO Full-Motion Wall Mount

How we chose the best monitor wall mounts

Both monitor and monitor wall mount sales have skyrocketed as remote work and schooling became the new normal. As a result, manufacturers have been making an increasing number of monitor wall mount models. To sort out the best, we have taken into consideration manufacturer reputations and claims, peer reviews, forums, the impressions of the large user base, as well as key features, such as weight capacity and VESA sizing. Lastly, we parsed through niche options to consider some increasingly common situations, such as those wanting standing desks.

The best monitor wall mounts: Reviews & Recommendations

As the name implies, wall mounts attach directly to your wall, so corner (or L-shaped) computer desk setups work the very best for them. When combined with monitors optimized for home office spaces, the best monitor wall mounts can create a comfortable environment for the neck and eyes while also helping clear off the top of your desk. Whether the best monitor mount for you is a solid mount with incredible flexibility in swivel and motion, a mount for a large VESA monitor, or the perfect mount for your standing workstation, we’ve found it all and more.

Best overall: Ergotron HX Single Ultrawide Monitor Arm

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: A heavy-duty build with a wide range of motion and high compatibility with most modern monitors makes this a lasting choice.

Specs

• Weight capacity: 42 lbs.
• VESA sizes: 100×100, 75×75, 200×100, 200×200
• Tilt & swivel: 180-degree pan and 360-degree rotation

Pros 

• Works with most ultrawide monitors
• Intense pivoting with flexible arm
• Impressive 10-yr. Warranty
• Bright, shiny color scheme

Cons 

• Need extra parts for wood stud installation
• Struggles with the Odyssey G9

This wall mount is perfect for just about any office setup due to its incredibly flexible arm. Instead of just making minor adjustments to reduce screen glare or neck pressure, the Ergotron’s arm is able to move into nearly any desirable position.

It works especially well as a mount for your second monitor when the side of your desk touches the wall. You can pull your monitor out when you want to use it, but then push it up perpendicular to the wall when you want it out of the way.

As a result of its heavy-duty manufacturing, the Ergotron is great for ultrawide monitors, including most curved ones. One unfortunate exception to this is our favorite curved ultrawide, the Samsung Odyssey G9, which has a bit too much curvature for the mount to handle easily.

Finally, an aesthetic touch. While many wall mounts are a drab gray or dull black, the Ergotron HX offers brilliant white and polished aluminum coloring. The white goes great with the aesthetic of Apple products for the modern office look. Alternatively, the polished aluminum is complimented highly by LED light strips for that futuristic gamer battlestation feel.

Best height-adjustable: Mount-It! Sit Stand Wall Mount

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Why it made the cut: If you can meet the structural requirements, this mount converts into a complete standing desk, with desktop support, on command.

Specs

• Weight capacity: 17.6 lbs. monitor, 2.2 lbs. keyboard
• VESA sizes: 75×75, 100×100
• Height adjustment range: 19.9”

Pros 

• Expert installation available
• Sturdy for typing
• Includes CPU wall mount with cable management functions

Cons 

• Only meant for concrete walls

The Mount-It! Sit Stand combines the ideals of a standing desk with the functionality of a wall-mounted monitor. It includes a mount for your monitor, CPU, keyboard, and mouse. As per the instructions, it is only truly meant to be installed into concrete walls. That being said, it has been used in a variety of situations successfully. When in doubt, consider the expert installation option and have a chat about your particular situation before purchasing.

While it can be used as a purely standing desk, it does have the capability to be lowered up to 19.9 inches. This should be enough for most body types to take advantage of this desk as a standard “sitting” desk, too. Preferably with an ergonomic chair.

The keyboard and mouse tray feels roomy and comfortable, though it can be a tad difficult to get used to if you’re used to using a full desk. Upon first use, it feels surprisingly sturdy to type on. The tray also juts out into the room a full 41 inches from the wall. This can feel extreme at first, but the extra distance from the monitor helps reduce eye strain. Finally, the tray can be folded up while not in use.

The included CPU holder works well to reduce cord length-related difficulties. Putting your CPU halfway between the highest and lowest places on your monitor will allow for full motion with reduced worries. That being said, we still recommend getting both a wireless mouse and wireless keyboard so you can utilize the folding keyboard tray to its fullest.

Best dual: Mount-It! Dual Monitor Wall Mount

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Why it made the cut: The Mount-It! Dual Monitor Wall Mount is durable, affordable, and can be installed just about anywhere.

Specs

• Weight capacity: 14.3 lbs.
• VESA sizes: 75×75, 100×100
• Tilt & swivel: 90-degrees up/left/right, 45-degrees down

Pros 

• Easy adjusting arms
• Lightweight
• Made for brick, cement, and wood installation
• Slide-in VESA plates for monitor

Cons 

• Difficult to have monitors side-by-side

You wouldn’t be alone if you feel somewhat claustrophobic at the thought of one-monitor computing in 2023. Instead of installing two wall mounts for the dual-monitor effect, it is best to get one really good dual-monitor wall mount.

Mount-It!’s dual-mount arms come with a lot of flexibility, including 90-degree tilt-and-swivel control in three directions. Each monitor is maneuvered by a gas spring arm for easy, responsive, and precise manipulation.

Despite this flexibility, you should be aware of the special limitations of using a dual wall mount that still apply to the Mount-It! The monitors attached have to be a bit smaller to allow full movement. In this case, that maximum is going to be 27 inches, which is still good enough for a couple of good gaming monitors on the cheap.

Even with monitors of the right size, it can be tricky to get them in a position where they touch if that is your preference. While possible, it requires them to jut out from the wall quite a bit, which can reduce your space. To visualize why, try clapping your hands without bending your elbows. The monitors here move in a similar fashion.

Finally, expect easy installation. The product is lightweight and can be installed in many materials. The VESA attachments for the back of your monitors allow you to slip them on the arms yourself—no helper required!

Best large VESA: Mount-It! Full Motion Monitor Wall Bracket

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Why it made the cut: Extreme versatility in VESA sizes and weight loads at a price anyone can afford.

Specs

• Weight capacity: 66 lbs.
• VESA sizes: 75×75, 100×100, 200×100, 200×200, 300×300, 400×300, 400×400
• Tilt & swivel: 180-degrees left/right, 20-degrees up/down

Pros 

• Expert installation option
• Lightweight
• Installs in wood stud

Cons 

• Needs 8” x 8” mounting port on monitor

This Mount-It! mount provides a lot of flexibility for you to experiment with different monitors now and in the future. It has seven compatible VESA sizes that include the common 75×75 and 100×100 options but also go up to 400×400.

Another unexpected feat of the mount at this price range is its holding capacity of up to 66 pounds. In fact, Mount-It! claims to have gotten the mount to hold up to 132 pounds in testing. We do recommend keeping with the suggested weight limit, though, as the mount installs into a wood stud.

The mount has fantastic right and left swivel, due to its arm. While it doesn’t have the additional up-and-down range of motion of the best monitor arms, you’ll still be pleasantly surprised by the triple-jointed swivel on offer. If you use a small enough monitor, it can even work for setups where the side of your desk touches the wall like a budget Ergotron.

One quirk of having such an impressive range of VESA sizes is that the mounting area is quite large. Make sure that you have a mounting area of at least 8 inches by 8 inches on your monitor to accommodate this large aspect of the design.

Easy-to-assemble: Antimbee No Stud Drywall TV Mount

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Why it made the cut: This Antimbee is a no-studs-necessary monitor mount that can be installed in less than 15 minutes.

Specs

• Weight capacity: 100 lbs.
• VESA sizes: Any from 100×100 to 400×400
• Monitor sizes: 13”-55”

Pros 

• Includes everything needed for installation but the hammer
• Expert installation option
• Easy “hanging” VESA mounting bracket

Cons 

• No arm
• No tilt & swivel

The Antimbee No Stud is great for those situations where you need a non-invasive installation. While that does come with some downsides, if you appreciate the mount for what it is and buy it with the right frame of mind, you will be very satisfied with it.

The installation can be compared to hanging a picture, both in difficulty and mechanism. Using the only tool you’ll be required to bring on your own, a hammer, nail the base into the wall. There is even a small bubble level included, ensuring a non-tilted hang. Finally, screw the hanger into the horizontal VESA holes of your monitor and hang it on the wall. The entire installation should take less than 15 minutes and can be completed by a single person.

Overall, this makes the Antimbee a great choice for dorm rooms or other situations where your landlord wouldn’t want you drilling deep into your wall. With this in mind, consider it as a cheap secondary gift for the child you are sending off to college this fall.

An unfortunate downside of the hang-like-a-picture-frame approach to this wall mount is that the mounted monitor will also act as a picture hung on the wall. There is no arm, tilt, or swivel. Test out monitor heights before installation to avoid disappointment.

Best budget: VIVO Full Motion Wall Mount

SEE IT

Why it made the cut: Has all of the basic features, including an arm, at the price you want.

Specs

• Weight capacity: 44 lbs.
• VESA sizes: 75×75, 100×100
• Tilt & swivel: 5-degrees up, 12-degrees down, 45-degrees left and right

Pros 

• Expert installation option
• Swiveling arm
• Cable management included

Cons 

• Difficult tension adjustment
• Installation is a group project

Our budget option, from VIVO, comes with standard features, a good weight capacity, and a relatively good arm for the price. If you are a standard user who is willing to invest a bit of extra effort into installation, this could be the only monitor mount you’ll ever need.

When looking at budget products, it is often the little things that the manufacturer bothers to include that make the whole experience worthwhile. For the VIVO Full Motion, that includes a three-jointed swiveling arm and a small hook to enhance cable management.

The swiveling arm works in a similar manner to Mount-It!’s Full Motion, though in a pared-down form. For example, the tension settings that hold the monitor in place require a tool for adjustment. This can be tricky to set since you will need to get the tool between the back of your monitor and the wall to access the adjuster. It is best to set this up with relatively high tension and leave it.

Speaking of setting up, expect this one to take at least two people. One person will need to hold the monitor while the other screws it into the mount. While there is optional expert installation available, the surcharge will negate the budget appeal this VIVO mount has to offer. We recommend grabbing a friend who owes you an easy favor, having a fun chat, and installing this monitor wall mount together.

Things to consider before buying one of the best monitor wall mounts

While your monitor wall mount will usually be cheaper than your monitor, a bad monitor wall mount will destroy your monitor. As a result, it really pays to be careful when selecting a mount and to make sure you are getting one that will work to support your monitor. You’ll also want to think about how you’ll be using it. How much rotation will it need to offer for your setup? We also look at the ease of installation and the possibility of expert installation add-ons with your purchase.

Weight capacity

One of the easiest factors to consider. In short, all other factors considered equal, an ability to hold a higher amount of weight on your wall is always better. While you can always weigh your monitor (or look up the weight of the monitor you’re about to purchase) in order to pick a mount with a capacity to match, we always recommend going for at least some wiggle room. As monitor technology continues to grow and change, you might want to upgrade to a heavier monitor down the line.

VESA size

The Video Electronics Standards Association (VESA) has created a standardized set of hole patterns that monitors, TVs, and their mounts typically follow. The sizing is given in a pair of numbers, such as 75×75, to represent the size of the square pattern the holes create in millimeters. The first number is the horizontal distance, and the second is the vertical.

Before buying a mount, it is critical that you check your monitor’s VESA size. However, you shouldn’t stop there, as many mounts have several compatible sizes, and having this kind of flexibility will help for future monitor purchases. Very common VESA sizes are 75×75 and 100×100, though others do exist. The largest VESA sizes can go over 600×400.

Not all monitors come with VESA-compatible mounting on the back. In that case, search for the manufacturer-specific mount, if available.

Tilt & swivel

For most monitor users, there is some level tilting, nudging, and adjusting that occurs after placing the monitor on your desk. This doesn’t magically change when the monitor is attached to a wall mount. Sometimes that can even mean making micro-adjustments to your monitor position on a daily basis, such as to avoid the glare of the early morning sun.

Another common feature of wall mounts is maneuverable arms. They help to increase left-to-right tilt so your monitor can face your seat directly. Particularly high-quality arms can even work with desks that are only beside a wall instead of pushed into one. In any case, you will want to ensure the selected tilt and swivel levels hold. Strong, tight joints are critical.

Installation

Installation can be tricky and rightfully makes many buyers nervous. Incorrectly installed wall mounts can destroy your monitor, not to mention your wall. When purchasing a wall mount, consider how tricky the installation process will be and if the mount includes all of the tools and parts required for a successful mounting.

Alternatively, consider purchasing a professional installation along with your mount. Many companies offer this service, but be warned that it can be very expensive, potentially many times more expensive than the mount itself.

FAQs

Final thoughts on the best monitor wall mounts

• Best overall: Ergotron HX Single Ultrawide Monitor Arm
• Best height-adjustable: Mount-It! Sit-Stand Wall Mount
• Best dual: Mount-It! Dual-Monitor Wall Mount
• Best large VESA: Mount-It! Full-Motion Monitor Wall Bracket
• Easy-to-assemble: Antimbee No-Stud Drywall TV Mount
• Best budget: VIVO Full-Motion Wall Mount

Monitor wall mounts are space-savers that give your workstation a very comfortable feel. They can change your work or gaming area into an open space with the flick of a wrist. From the dorm-friendly Antimbee No Stud Drywall TV Mount to the incredibly flexible Ergotron HX Single Ultrawide Monitor Arm, our choices include a monitor wall mount for any purpose or budget.

Why trust us

Popular Science started writing about technology more than 150 years ago. There was no such thing as “gadget writing” when we published our first issue in 1872, but if there was, our mission to demystify the world of innovation for everyday readers means we would have been all over it. Here in the present, PopSci is fully committed to helping readers navigate the increasingly intimidating array of devices on the market right now.

Our writers and editors have combined decades of experience covering and reviewing consumer electronics. We each have our own obsessive specialties—from high-end audio to video games to cameras and beyond—but when we’re reviewing devices outside of our immediate wheelhouses, we do our best to seek out trustworthy voices and opinions to help guide people to the very best recommendations. We know we don’t know everything, but we’re excited to live through the analysis paralysis that internet shopping can spur so readers don’t have to.

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If you have an Apple mobile device, you know the sound it makes when you charge it. It’s simple and does its job well—but it’s boring. Luckily, you can change this mundane audio cue by adding an iPhone automation.

Your journey starts in the Shortcuts app, which you can use to set up a handful of customizations. Among those possibilities is an automation that will make your iPhone or iPad say something specific whenever you connect it to power. 

Is it super useful? Probably not. But depending on the phrase you come up with, it can be a lot of fun. 

How to change your iPhone or iPad’s charging sound

If you haven’t dived into them, an iPhone automation (also available for iPad) is a series of actions that occur automatically after a trigger. For example, you can use these unique commands to create a routine with your smart home gadgets, like turning on the lights or playing a specific playlist on your smart speaker once your iPhone connects to your WiFi. You can also set up different actions that will only affect your device. 

[Related: The easiest way to cue up calming sounds on your iPhone]

1. Create the automation by opening the Shortcuts app on your iPhone or iPad. 

2. In the upper left corner of the screen, tap the menu icon—the rectangle with three lines on the left side. Then, go to Automation. 

3. On the next menu, tap Create personal automation to link the process directly to the device you’re currently using.

• Note: The other option, Set up your home, ties an automation to your entire smart home ecosystem, and that’s not what we want to do here.

4. Choose your trigger by scrolling down to Charger and tapping Is connected. This will set the action to happen only when you plug in the power cord. Hit Next to continue. 

5. Choose what your device does when you charge it. Tap Add action and then All actions. 

6. From the comprehensive list that emerges, choose Speak text—you’ll find it under the Documents category. This option will make your device read something you write out loud whenever you plug it in. 

7. On the Speak text menu, you’ll see a blurred Text option next to Speak—tap it and write the phrase you want your gadget to say. We chose “Ohh yeah! Gimme some juice!” but you can use whatever you want—the sky’s the limit. 

• Note: Just remember that if you use a dirty joke as a sentence, your device will say it out loud for everybody to hear even if it’s silent or in Do Not Disturb mode. 

8. Tap the blue arrow to the right of your phrase to further customize the iPhone automation—you’ll be able to choose the pitch, speed, and voice you want your device to use, and even change the language. 

• Pro tip: By default, your device will read the text in Siri’s voice, but there are other fun alternatives. If you want a more metallic, android voice, choose Zarvox or Trinoids; if you’re into giving your iPhone a creepy laugh, go for Jester; and if you want your Apple device to sing back your phrase, choose Good News. 

[Related: Hidden iPhone tricks that will change the way you use iOS]

9. Check everything is exactly as you like it by tapping the play icon at the bottom right of the menu and listening to the audio sample. If you’re satisfied, go back to Edit automation. 

10. Toggling off the switch next to Ask before running and confirming your choice by choosing Don’t ask. This will make sure the action is completely automatic—otherwise, your iPhone or iPad will send you a notification every time you plug in the charger and you’ll have to engage with it to trigger the action. Not nearly as fun. Finish by tapping Done.

If you’re running out of juice while at a meeting with a client for example, you might want to disable your automation—do so by opening it in the Shortcuts app and toggling off the switch next to Enable this automation. You can also tone down a risqué phrase at any time by opening your automation, tapping Speak text, and replacing the words you want your device to read out loud. 

And if you get tired of your Apple device’s new personality, from the Automation gallery, slide the unopened item to the left and hit Delete. 

This story has been updated. It was originally published in 2022.

The post Your iPhone’s charging sound is boring. Have it say ‘Gimme some juice!’ instead. appeared first on Popular Science.

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As the world’s biggest social network, Facebook can keep tabs on about a third of the global population. Whether you visit the social network daily (as more than 2 billion users do) or only log on to to check hyperlocal neighborhood groups, you should be aware of how much personal data you’re giving to the site and its parent company, Meta.

Facebook primarily uses everything it knows about you to craft more relevant targeted advertising. While some see this as uncomfortably intrusive, others accept the ads as the price they pay for the network’s free services and tools. Whatever you think about the ethics of this data collection, you should know what the company is learning about you—and how you can control the flow of information. While this guide can help, there’s only so much you can do to protect your privacy. If you really want to stop the company from mining your data, your best bet is to delete your Facebook account entirely.

Take a peek at your profile information

When you created your account, you entered basic background information, including your name and email address. The site also prompted you to fill out your location, work and education history, and friends and relatives currently on Facebook. But by observing your behavior on its network, the tech company has gathered a lot more information about you and your habits.

[Related: How to secure your Facebook account]

One quick way to see exactly what details Facebook knows about you—and limit who else can access them—is to visit the Your Facebook information page where Meta stores all that data. If you’d prefer to get there without a link, log into the site and follow these steps:

Both the website and the app will show you several categories of information that you can browse at your leisure, with recent activity displayed on top. What you see may vary depending on how much you use Facebook and what you do there, but we can give you an idea of what to expect.

• Your activity across Facebook: This will show you everything you’ve done on the social network, including posts, photos, activity you’re tagged in, and items you’ve sold on Facebook Marketplace.
• Personal information: Click here to find what Facebook knows about you, including your name, hobbies, relationship status, and employer.
• Connections: If you’d like to see your friends, followers, and requests you’ve sent and received, this is the category you need.
• Logged information: Here you’ll find information Facebook tracks about your activity, such as search history and your primary location.
• Security and login information: Where you’ve logged into Facebook, the devices you’ve used, and a history of every login and logout.
• Apps and websites off of Facebook: If you’ve connected other apps and websites to your Facebook account, you’ll find related data here.
• Preferences: Any actions you’ve taken to customize your account, perhaps to make it more useful and less toxic, will be in this category.
• Ads information: Whenever you interact with ads and advertisers on Facebook, that data is gathered here.

Check your Facebook ad preferences

Ironically, if you want to see the topics Meta thinks you enjoy, you won’t find it under “ads information.” Instead, select Logged information, then Ads interests to see what data Facebook uses to serve you advertisements. To stop the company from showing you ads based on any of these details, simply hit Remove next to any one of them.

This doesn’t require you to eliminate helpful details from your profile—you can share your relationship status, for example, but block ads that target you because of it. Facebook also allows you to dig deeper and learn more about ad preferences if you’re interested. But be careful, editing this data doesn’t benefit you—it benefits Meta, which will be able to target you more effectively.

Even if Facebook isn’t selling your information to advertisers, it could still be collecting it. In addition to making ads more relevant, the company can put your data—everything from the make and model of your phone to your most frequently used apps—to work fixing bugs and changing the social network. If you’re uncomfortable giving certain information to the social network, you can delete it from your profile entirely by going to your Facebook profile and selecting Edit profile to see what you can adjust. You can’t erase everything, but you can delete details such as where you work and go to school. You may also want to check out the More drop-down menu, where you can unfollow pages and manage other things you’ve liked along the way.

However, Facebook isn’t a completely closed black box. If you want to back up your data or save it for any reason, you can download all of it—just navigate to the Your Facebook information page (steps above), find Download profile information and click View next to it. You can select a date range, file format, and the quality of photos and other media in the final file.

[Related: Use these settings to share photos at their best quality]

There were once third-party tools that sought to offer this information and predict how Facebook might track and interpret your data, like the now-defunct website Stalkscan and Google Chrome extension Data Selfie. Now, you can just navigate to the Your Facebook Information page and click Download Your Information. You can select a date range, file format, and the quality of photos and other media included in that file. If you need a little more guidance, we have a full step-by-step within our story on how to delete your Facebook account.

Disable location and web tracking

Beyond the information you list on your profile and the pattern of your clicks (from likes to photo comments), it’s worth discussing two other big pieces of data in more detail: what Facebook knows about your location (determined via your smartphone) and your activity elsewhere on the internet.

[Related: How to stop websites from tracking you]

Letting Facebook’s mobile app know where you are has some upsides. It enables you to check into places, search for interesting spots nearby, and even find your friends more easily. It also tells Facebook where you tend to hang out, allowing the service to be more precise about the ads it shows you.

If this makes you uncomfortable, you can turn off its ability to keep tabs on your whereabouts. On Android phones, open Settings, tap Apps, find Facebook, hit Permissions, and select Location. On an iPhone, open Settings, tap Privacy & Security, then Location Services, find Facebook on the list of apps, and choose Never from the list of options that appear. If you don’t see Facebook under Location Services on your iPhone, you probably haven’t done anything in the app that might require your location. Even with these precautions, Facebook still can keep tabs on you—for example, it will take note when your friends tag you.

The simple reason why Facebook tracks you around the internet should be clear by now: better advertising. It can, for example, receive notifications when you spend time on specific webpages. In addition, the marketing platforms and sites to which Facebook sends your information can also give the social network their own carefully gleaned data about you (this is known as off-Facebook activity) What’s in this data? You can’t know exactly, beyond checking the Apps and websites off of Facebook information category we mentioned above.

To prevent Facebook from following you around the web, go to the Your Facebook information page (steps above), and click View next to Off-Facebook activity. You have three options:

Disconnect specific off-Facebook activity

Whether you’re on the web (Disconnect specific activity) or the mobile app (Select Activity to Disconnect), you’ll need to enter your password to proceed. You’ll see a list of brands and websites Facebook associates you with, and you can select the bubble (web) or Turn off (app) next to any of them to make your choices. Then hit Continue (web) or Turn Off Future Activity (app) to disconnect your Facebook account from the ones you’ve selected. Facebook will also provide a bunch of information about the process, including that Meta may still get information from the disconnected places, but it won’t be associated with your account.

Clear your off-Facebook history

Choose Clear previous activity (web) or Clear History (app), and you’ll be able to disconnect your off-Facebook activity history from your account. The data may still exist, but Meta says it won’t be linked to your account.

Manage future off-Facebook activity

There are two paths here: Connect future activity or Disconnect future activity. The former will allow Meta to keep gathering off-Facebook activity from certain places around the web and linking it to your account. The latter will prevent that, the company says. On the web, you’ve got to click the bubble next to your choice, but in the mobile app it’s a simple toggle switch.

open the Ads page, find Ads Settings from the menu on the left, and select Ads shown off of Facebook. Turn the toggle switch to Not Allowed. You can also visit the Digital Advertising Alliance and specifically opt out of numerous cross-site tracking programs, including the one run by Facebook.

These days, Facebook takes more care to explain what type of user data it collects, but you still can’t reclaim all of your information—that’s something you sacrifice when you sign up for the service. What you can do is be more aware of the types of information you reveal as you fill out your profile, react to your News Feed, and browse the web.

This story has been updated. It was originally published in 2017.

The post How to see everything Facebook knows about you, and what you can do about it appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

The Windows operating system has been around since 1985, and you’d have to be a true enthusiast to know every single thing the software can do. For most of us, there are features we’ve never come across or taken advantage of, hidden away in the operating system—and a lot of these can be really useful if you know where to find them.

Like the best hidden settings in Windows, these hidden features (there’s a difference, we promise) can make a real difference to the way you use your computer every day, and there’s likely to be at least one or two on this list that you will come to depend upon.

The secret Windows Start menu

The regular Windows Start menu is perfectly fine if you only want speedy access to the applications on your computer—but other times you might want to jump straight to a specific part of the operating system. The Task Manager, perhaps.

That’s where the secret Start menu comes in, although it’s not all that hidden: Just right-click on the Start menu button and it’ll appear. From there, you can access a host of useful shortcuts that have nothing to do with your apps.

Beyond the Task Manager, you can jump straight to the desktop, sign out of the user account you’re currently in,  search your PC, and access screens such as the Device Manager or the Terminal window.

Instant access to emojis, anywhere

Emojis can sometimes express what you want to say better than words, and there’s a way to find them in any Windows app or from any Windows screen that you might not know about. Simply press Win+. (the Windows key and the period key simultaneously) to bring up a panel packed with emojis and other special characters.

Screen recording

You may be familiar with the Windows Snipping Tool for taking screenshots, but it also has the ability to record screen activity—perfect for creating tutorial videos, getting help with a problem, or logging what’s happening on apps and websites.

Launch the Snipping Tool from the Start menu, then click the record button (it looks like a video camera) to do some screen recording. Select part or all of the screen, and the recording will begin. Use the pause and stop buttons at the top of your display to take a break from recording or finish it completely.

[Related: The best screenshot and recording apps for your phone]

Your recorded video will then pop up inside the Snipping Tool, where you can review it and save it to a specific place on your system.

Clipboard history

For a long time, the Windows clipboard could only hold one item at a time—whether it was an image, a line of text, a file, or whatever else. While it’s not immediately obvious from the user interface, the Windows clipboard can now store much more.

To make sure clipboard history is turned on, open System > Clipboard from Settings. Once enabled, you can view the full history by pressing Win+V on your keyboard—and the pop-up window that appears will let you permanently pin items to the clipboard, copy any item from the clipboard, and clear the clipboard history.

Detailed Windows troubleshooters

Windows has a bunch of helpful troubleshooters you can turn to before running a web search, asking a friend or relative for advice, or calling in the professionals to solve an issue. These tools can be quite effective, and cover almost every aspect of your computer’s operation.

Open up Settings from the Start menu, then choose System > Troubleshoot > Other troubleshooters. Click Run next to a troubleshooter to launch it—the topics they cover include video playback, Bluetooth, printers, and network and internet connections.

Energy recommendations for more efficient power

If you’re not sure about the best way to minimize the amount of energy your laptop or desktop is using, Windows can help by making some suggestions about how your PC is configured. It’s a helpful guide to the key settings involved.

From Settings, pick System, then Power & battery (on a laptop) or Power (on a desktop). If there are ways your PC could be saving energy, you’ll see an Energy recommendations link at the top—click this to view the recommendations.

They can cover everything from the brightness of the display to the way that USB devices are powered when your computer is sleeping. Click Apply next to any recommendation you’d like to follow, or Apply all to set them all at once.

Conversations with the Windows calculator

The apps that come built into Windows have their own share of hidden features too. Take Calculator, for example, which can do much more than your sums. Launch it from the Start menu, click the three lines to the top left, and you’ll see there are a mass of options for performing conversions.

You can run conversions based on currency, volume, length, weight and mass, temperature, energy, area, speed, time, and power, and you can calculate the number of months, weeks, and days between two dates as well.

The post 7 hidden Windows features you should be using appeared first on Popular Science.

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You are more than a data point. The Opt Out is here to help you take your privacy back.

RESIDENTIAL SECURITY CAMERAS from brands like Amazon’s Ring, Google Nest, and Arlo are everywhere. As of October 2022, nearly half of American households with broadband internet had a home security system, networked camera, video doorbell, or combination of these in place. If only keeping your property and family safe were that simple.

Studies attempting to measure the ability of residential security cameras to stop or deter crime have been inconclusive. And even if you care only about feeling safe, that potentially false sense of security comes with a high price: your privacy and that of everyone around you. To make matters worse, some of the tech companies behind these gadgets might be getting a little too cozy with law enforcement.

Your camera may not keep you safe

Risks aside, there are several practical benefits to installing a security camera. You might want to see when your packages hit your stoop and deter random passersby from grabbing them. Or maybe you live in a secluded area and want to try to ensure potential trespassers think twice before breaking into your home. 

But security cameras won’t necessarily keep you safe. Unless you’re checking their feed 24/7, these gadgets allow only for reactive responses, meaning they’re helpful only when a crime has already been committed. And their power of deterrence highly depends on the context. 

[Related: A simple DIY hoodie can fool security cameras]

A 2009 study published in the journal Evaluation Review found no significant reduction in crime rates after security cameras were installed in two low-crime areas in Manhattan, New York. On the other hand, a 2017 review published in the Journal of Scandinavian Studies in Criminology and Crime Prevention looked into seven studies focused on cities around the world and found crime rates dropped 24 to 28 percent in public streets and urban subway stations after the installation of closed-circuit television (CCTV). Still, cameras did not affect the amount of crime perpetrated in parking lots or suburban subway stations. Finally, a 40-year review published in 2019 in the journal Criminology and Public Policy found CCTV cameras do play a role in reducing property and drug-related crimes in parking and residential areas but don’t reduce the rate of violent crimes. 

It’s worth noting that these studies consider CCTV along with other types of surveillance systems. So far, no studies have specifically looked at whether self-monitored residential and commercial surveillance systems are an effective crime deterrent. 

Privacy is a steep price to pay for security

It’s important to understand that when you install a surveillance camera, you’re buying security in exchange for privacy—but not always your own. 

If the security system is outside your home, the people appearing most frequently in the footage will not be you or anybody in your household, but others in your community who have no say in whether their image is captured. The trade-off makes sense only if we assume everyone is a potential criminal. 

“We don’t know who’s a criminal until a crime has been committed, so what we’re asking people to do is to turn over their pockets continuously and prove that they’re not,” says Isadora Borges Monroy, who has a Ph.D. in political science from McGill University and is affiliated with Harvard University’s Berkman Klein Center for Internet and Society. If we physically searched everyone we encountered in our daily lives, it’d be a lot more shocking, she explains.

When you have cameras inside your home, everyone who enters is subject to surveillance. This is why Rick Osterloh, senior vice president of devices and services at Google, once advised Nest owners to let guests know that their conversations are being recorded. But it’s unclear whether this is something people do consistently, if ever. 

It may not bother you that your neighbors are recording you every time you walk your dog past their house. After all, they’re very nice. But you should ask yourself who else is watching and listening in whenever you bring hot gossip to your friend’s house. The answer could be, well, everyone. 

Tech companies are probably the biggest potential viewers. The most popular residential surveillance systems work with the cloud, meaning they stream and store footage using an internet connection and the manufacturer’s servers. Your data should technically be safe there, but there’s evidence that it’s not. The Federal Trade Commission, for example, recently ordered Ring to pay $5.8 million in refunds after the agency found the company’s employees and contractors had had unrestricted access to user footage for years. And not only that: Ring employees had also been able to “readily download any customer’s videos and then view, share, or disclose those videos at will,” the agency said.

Google went through a similar ordeal in 2019 after a Dutch news outlet revealed that some of the company’s independent contractors were listening to and transcribing Google Assistant commands. 

Then there are hackers, who have been known to extort users, holding their footage for ransom. The same FTC report that found privacy problems at Ring also noted that the company had failed to respond to multiple reports of stolen usernames and passwords. The thefts were possible due to Ring’s lax security requirements, which allowed users to employ bad passwords and made brute-force attacks easy by not limiting the number of times a person (or program) could enter incorrect login details. A 2019 Motherboard investigation revealed Ring systems even allowed multiple simultaneous logins from different countries and wouldn’t flag the number of users logged into the same account. 

And even if there’s no malicious intent, there have been a variety of other security issues involving these gadgets. In 2019, Wirecutter reported that a Google Nest home security camera allowed its former owner to access new footage even after completely resetting and selling the device.   

In all fairness, some of these problems have since been patched and there are now systems in place to eliminate some security vulnerabilities. In 2020, Ring, for one, made two-factor authentication mandatory and introduced end-to-end encryption.

“They did [it] after a tremendous amount of pushback from civil liberties groups, from angry people, from users. But you have to opt in—you have to turn it on yourself,” says Matthew Guariglia, a senior policy analyst at the Electronic Frontier Foundation working on issues of surveillance and policing.

Still, we usually learn about new privacy and security issues only after the damage has already been done. That means there’s no way to know which vulnerabilities are currently being exploited.

The internet is the new evidence room

But perhaps the most problematic unwanted audience for private security camera footage is law enforcement. 

“The boundary between consumer privacy and government surveillance has never been so thin. It’s almost nonexistent,” says Guariglia.

Ideally, law enforcement agencies like local police, the FBI, and the DEA would be able to access private data only by asking its owner to relinquish it voluntarily. Under the Fourth Amendment, US citizens have the right to deny access to their data, but law enforcement can still seize it by presenting a court-ordered warrant or subpoena. This procedure is designed to protect Americans from unreasonable searches, but there are unfortunately two ways law enforcement can get your personal information without going through this process. 

“They don’t need to go directly to the person who collects the footage—the customer whose camera it is,” Guariglia says. “They can go to the companies that store the footage.”

Tech companies have the legal authority to push back on law enforcement’s requests for user data, but if and how much they resist is not up to you. Some companies even have entire programs that make it easy for authorities to access your information. In 2022, Amazon’s Ring released footage without a warrant or the consent of the affected customers, claiming there was an emergency involving “an imminent danger of death or serious physical injury to a person.” The company did this 11 times, and all law enforcement had to do was fill out a form. Google has a similar program, but it appears to have a better track record than Ring: As of July 2022, the company claims it has not released any user footage to authorities. 

And even if you think that a potential emergency is a good enough reason for tech companies to grant access to users’ private data, law enforcement agencies have also tried to get camera manufacturers to let them use their products to monitor and police citizens’ legitimate exercise of their First Amendment rights. 

“Surveillance is not justice—this can be a tool of policing, but that doesn’t mean that the policing goal is either legitimate or that it will yield justice,” Borges Monroy says.

And if filling out a form or sending an email doesn’t work, law enforcement can just buy your data. Because, as Guariglia explains, a lot of it is just sitting on the open market. 

“Right now our legal system is the way it is, where police can buy your geolocation at any given moment through these data brokers, and they don’t need a warrant to do that,” he says.

As sketchy as that sounds, it’s not illegal, though some US senators are trying to make it so. But until there are specific regulations preventing law enforcement from purchasing user data or paying rogue employees millions of dollars for confidential information, there’s always the possibility that your camera footage will end up used against you in a court of law, without your consent. 

The irony is that we, the users, have built and funded the very system that surveils us. Such a system might not have been able to exist otherwise, because using public money to surveil citizens legally requires public hearings and debate. 

“Instead, [law enforcement has] kind of found a cheaper, more expansive shortcut to mass surveillance, which is taking advantage of the infrastructure that we are putting up ourselves, in part because society is so individualized,” Guariglia says. 

What can you do to protect your data

Reconsidering whether you need a security camera after all may be the best thing you can do to protect your privacy and that of the people around you. 

If that’s not an option, Guariglia says that before you buy a surveillance camera, you should find out whether your system of choice allows you to encrypt your data. This will prevent anyone—hackers, tech companies, or law enforcement—from accessing your data without the right credentials. You’ll also need to know whether encryption is set by default, is hard to turn on, or prevents you from using other features. 

Guariglia also recommends you find out whether the camera manufacturer requires a warrant to share your data with law enforcement, and if an overly broad warrant will do the trick. Researching a company’s track record of protecting its users and pushing back against requests for their information can also be useful. 

[Related: Tips for keeping your security cameras secure]

Beyond that, Borges Monroy recommends engaging in long-term action that could result in better regulations that will protect our privacy. 

“People need to be thinking of themselves as citizens, not as consumers,” she says. “Because these are really big problems, we tend to think about them as something that has to be done at a federal level. But there’s a lot to be done at a local level too. Especially when you’re thinking about policing.”

So let elected officials know what you think, and maybe run for office yourself. At the very least, vote. Supporting candidates who have your best interests at heart when it comes to privacy—at all levels of government—is a good way to make a difference. This will also get us closer to ensuring that we aren’t all constantly racing to catch up with technology, but are instead setting the pace so it serves us, not the other way around. 

Read more PopSci+ stories.

The post The Opt Out: Home security cameras guarantee surveillance, not safety appeared first on Popular Science.

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Hosting a karaoke party at your place is easy, but you’ll need some preparation and equipment. You could spend money on one of the best karaoke systems on the market, but that’s definitely a splurge if you don’t plan on singing along with your friends regularly. 

You might be wondering, then, if you can somehow plug a microphone into your computer and use that instead. The good news is that you can, but it’s going to take a little bit of setup. Let’s get started. 

Choose a microphone

You can’t use the microphone built into your laptop or phone for karaoke because of feedback—the mic will pick up your voice but also the music, creating an awful sound that will pierce your eardrums. And even if that worked, a karaoke party where you and your guests yell into a laptop isn’t any fun at all.

You’ll need an external microphone.

If you have a good USB microphone for online work meetings or recording podcasts, you can use that. But if you’re buying a new one, know that the occasional karaoke party doesn’t require an expensive mic. If you played Rock Band or Guitar Hero back in the day, dig through your closet and pull out your old console microphone—they’re pretty much designed for karaoke already and they’re usually plug-and-play, meaning you connect them to your computer and you’re ready to rock. 

[Related: The psychology of karaoke, explained]

But if you have nothing at home that will work, you can always search for a handheld USB microphone online—you can find a decent one for around $20. 

Set up your microphone

Plug your microphone into your computer and try singing—you most likely won’t hear anything. This is because you’ll need to set up your mic first. To do so, go to the Settings menu on your computer. 

On Windows, head to System and choose Sound. There, click More sound settings, select your microphone, and click Properties.  

Head to the Listen tab and check the Listen to this device checkbox. 

You should now be able to hear yourself when talking into your microphone—finish the setup by heading to the Levels tab and adjusting the volume of the device. Your computer will remember your settings, meaning the next time you plug in your microphone it should work automatically to your liking. 

Unfortunately, it’s not as easy to amplify your voice with a microphone and a Mac computer, but there’s an easy workaround. Open QuickTime player, go to File in the menu bar, and click on New Audio Recording. 

This will open a simple recorder. Turn up the volume on the slider at the bottom and you should be able to hear yourself through your computer speakers when singing into the microphone. Feel free to minimize the window, but you will need to have this app open during your entire karaoke session. 

Find karaoke tracks to sing over

Now that you have a microphone and you can hear yourself sing through it, it’s time to find some actual songs. I tested several apps for this and I’ve found that, for most people, YouTube is the best option. You can search for any song, add the word “karaoke”, and you’ll find it there. 

I recommend you do some testing before the party, though—you might need to turn the volume down on the YouTube video to hear the microphone over the music, for example. It’s also a good idea to put together a playlist, but if you want to change things up on the go, searching for karaoke videos on YouTube doesn’t take long, so feel free to search for songs as requests come in. 

Optional: connect your computer to your TV

Your home karaoke setup doesn’t need much more than a computer, especially if you connect it to some decent speakers. But things can get a lot more fun if you hook up your laptop to your TV using an HDMI cable.

[Related: Five rad and romantic ways to turn your home into a karaoke bar]

The bigger screen makes it easy for everyone to see the lyrics and sing along with whoever is performing, but it also means the audio will come through your TV’s stereo system. As an added bonus, hooking up your TV to your laptop also makes it easy for one person to DJ the karaoke session without getting in the performers’ way. 

Try a dedicated karaoke app

If you can’t be bothered to find karaoke videos on YouTube, you can use a dedicated app to get the party going. 

Karafun

Karafun has an extensive song catalog and even if some of the tunes on the app sound a little cheesy, they’re synced up well with the lyrics and you can browse everything in one interface. It’s also easy to make a queue so your guests don’t get into a fight every time you ask who’s next. 

Karafun has a limited free version that allows you to play 30-second previews of all the songs in the catalog—not exactly enough to get to the bridge. So if you want to use this app for your karaoke party, you’re better off paying $9.99 per month to get unlimited access to all the tunes on the platform.

Karafun is available for Mac and Windows. Get full access to its song catalog for $9.99 a month. 

Singa

If you want to skip YouTube, Singa is another option you can use in your browser. The platform offers multiple versions of most songs and the quality is generally pretty good. Singa is also the only service on this list that lets you adjust the pitch on any song, making it possible for any singer to finish even the most difficult Mariah Carey tunes. 

You can get five free songs every day, which isn’t a bad deal but it’s not enough for your karaoke party. For $5.99 you can purchase a 2-day pass for full access to Singa’s catalog, and if karaoke becomes a hobby, you can splurge on a yearly subscription.

Singa is available on the web. Full access to its catalog starts at $5.99. 

Karaoke Mugen

Karaoke Mugen is an open-source option built by anime enthusiasts. As you’d imagine, its catalog includes mainly songs from anime shows and video games, lots of them available in multiple languages. Maybe this sounds like a party to you, but it has one major drawback—it’s annoying to set up. To use Karaoke Mugen, you’ll need to create an account and set up a web server working on your host computer. But if you go through all that trouble, you’ll get one stand-out feature: the ability for anyone in the room to add songs to the queue using their phones. 

Karaoke Mugen is available on the web for free.

The post Host an epic karaoke night with just a laptop and a mic appeared first on Popular Science.

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To deactivate Instagram or delete it: that is the question. If you’re reading this article, you’ve probably decided that it’s better to take action against the sea of troubles associated with the Meta-owned app and other social networks (like body dissatisfaction and unhealthy life comparisons) than it is to suffer the slings and arrows of outrageous trolls. No more.

Both deactivation and deletion will remove your Instagram account from the public eye, but the choice you make will depend on whether you plan to come back to the ‘Gram at any point. The key difference between a deactivated account and a deleted one is that the latter is permanent. If you deactivate your Instagram, it won’t be visible to anyone, but you won’t lose anything. You can let it languish in virtual limbo forever, or recover and reactivate it at any time by simply logging in. Delete it, though, and Meta will erase everything—you won’t be able to get it back.

Consider downloading your Instagram data first

Before you start, we recommend downloading all your Instagram data. You don’t need to do this, but if you’re at all nostalgic for the time you spent on the app, you should stash a file full of your posts, comments, and everything else on a hard drive somewhere. Not interested? Cool—you can skip straight to our instructions on how to deactivate Instagram.

Download your Instagram data from the app

1. Tap your profile photo in the bottom right corner of the screen, then hit the hamburger menu (three lines) in the top right.

2. Touch Your activity to open up a categorized list of everything you’ve ever done on Instagram.

3. Scroll to the bottom of this list and tap Download your information.

4. Click Request a download on the next page. When the file is ready, Instagram will notify you and give you four days to download your information from the app.

Download your Instagram data from the web

1. We know the app is more easily accessible, but plenty of people prefer the web version of Instagram. If that’s you, click More in the bottom left corner of the screen, then hit Your activity.

[Related: Criticism pushed ‘Instagram Kids’ back to the drawing board]

2. Select Download your information, then enter the email address you want Instagram to send the file to.

3. Choose the file format you want: HTML or JSON. The latter is a better option if you want to transfer all your Instagram data to another program or service.

4. Enter your Instagram password, then hit Request download.

How to deactivate Instagram, or permanently delete it

Whether you’re using a phone or a computer, the steps to delete or deactivate your Instagram account are essentially the same, but the first few are different enough to warrant separate instructions. When you’re done, maybe you’ll sleep—perchance, dream—a little easier. And then you can consider deleting Facebook when you wake up.

How to delete or deactivate Instagram from the Android or iPhone app

1. Tap your profile photo in the bottom right corner of the screen, then the hamburger menu (three lines) in the top right.

2. Choose Settings and privacy, then Accounts Center. These options should be easy to find, as they’re both right at the top of their respective lists.

3. From the Meta Accounts Center, tap Personal details > Account ownership and control > Deactivation or deletion.

4. Pick your Instagram account from the list of Meta accounts.

5. Choose whether you want to delete or deactivate your Instagram account, then hit Continue and enter your Instagram password to finish the process.

How to delete or deactivate your Instagram account from the web

1. Click More in the bottom left corner, followed by Settings.

2. Find the Meta Accounts Center box, then click See more in Accounts Center.

The post How to deactivate Instagram because the Likes don’t love you back appeared first on Popular Science.

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Facebook is still popular, with around 3 billion users logging in each month, but there’s no doubt some are there for a single purpose: to delete their account.

If you’ve decided you can no longer be associated with a platform that has struggled to effectively manage hate speech and misinformation, are just learning about whistleblower Frances Haugen’s scorching 2021 testimony before a Senate subcommittee, or simply have no use for the social network anymore, it’s fairly easy to back up your data and leave Facebook behind.

When you do, you’ll also lose access to Messenger, but not Meta’s other apps. If you want to deactivate Instagram or delete WhatsApp, you’ll have to do so separately. And if you’ve linked Facebook to any other services, you won’t get locked out forever, but you’ll need to use a different login method the next time you open them up.

Consider downloading all your Facebook data first

Before you pull the plug, you may want to save all the data you’ve amassed on the platform throughout the years. Of course, you can skip this and immediately delete your Facebook account (steps below), but we think it’s better to download everything and not need it than to trash it all and wish you hadn’t. You can do this from the mobile app or a web browser.

Facebook knows a lot about you, so you won’t get your data immediately—it may be several days before the file or files are ready for you. Once it’s done, though, Facebook will let you know via email.

It’s a time-sensitive matter too: The files are large, so Facebook will only hang onto them for a few days before they delete them. If the download window closes on you, you’ll have to start the process again.

Download your Facebook data from a browser

1. From your Facebook profile, click your profile picture in the top right corner of the screen, then hit Settings & privacy, followed by Settings. This should bring you directly to Your Facebook information, where you’ll see several options.

2. Find Download profile information, then click View to its right. This will bring you to a page where you can customize exactly how much you actually want to save.

3. Select a file format: HTML or JSON. The latter is better if you want to transfer your data somewhere else.

4. Use the dropdown menu under Media quality to decide if you want to save photos and videos at High, Medium, or Low quality. Higher-quality media will increase the size of the final data file.

5. Choose a date range. You can select one of Facebook’s preset time periods (like Last week and Last year), but if you have a specific range in mind you can pick Custom to set your own Start date and End date. If you want to download everything, click All time.

Download your data from the Facebook app

1. Tap Menu in the bottom right, then the cog icon in the top right to open Settings & privacy.

2. Scroll down to Your information and tap Download your information.

3. You’ll see a long list of data categories, including Messenger conversations, pages you’ve liked, posts, Facebook Marketplace data, login information, and your interactions with ads. Everything will be selected by default, but you can tap an item to deselect it and omit it from the final data file.

4. Choose a date range. You only have two options here: All of my data and Date range. If you don’t want to save everything, tap the latter option, then touch the dates that appear to set beginning and end dates for the time period you want.

How to delete your Facebook account on a mobile device or a computer

Whether you’ve downloaded your data and safely stored it on a hard drive or skipped straight here to erase all memory of your time on the social network, it’s time to delete your Facebook account. The process is essentially the same whether you’re using a web browser or the mobile app.

1. Open Facebook’s settings. This is the only step that’s substantially different whether you use a browser or the app.

• From a browser: Go to your Facebook profile, click your profile picture in the top right, then Settings & privacy, followed by Settings.
• From the app: Tap Menu in the bottom right, then the cog icon in the top right to open Settings & privacy.

2. Look for the Meta Accounts Center. On the web, it’s in the left-hand sidebar, and in the app it’s at the top of the page. Hit See more in Accounts Center.

3. Click Personal details, then Account ownership and control.

4. Choose Deactivation or deletion.

5. Select your Facebook account from the list of Meta accounts that appears.

6. Click Delete account. Doing so won’t immediately delete your Facebook account, but it’ll start the process. Deletion is permanent, though, and you won’t be able to get any of your Facebook data or Messenger messages back once it’s done. That said, your information will remain in Facebook’s possession (but invisible to the public) for at least 30 days. During this time you can change your mind, log into Facebook, and hit Cancel deletion to recover your account. After that grace period, it’ll all disappear into the internet ether.

• Note: Your other option here is Deactivate account, which will allow you to temporarily remove your Facebook account from public view. The difference between this and deleting your account is that no one will be able to see your name, photos, and most of the things you’ve shared, but you’ll still be able to use Messenger. It’s also not permanent, so you can undo deactivation whenever you want.

7. Whether you chose to deactivate or delete your Facebook account, click Continue. Facebook may ask you to click through several other dialog boxes (like reminding you that deactivating or deleting your account will also shut down any pages you run) and will ask for your password one more time before it makes everything disappear.

How to delete your Facebook account without a password

As you may have noticed, you need your password to delete your Facebook account. But if you’ve forgotten it or your account has been compromised, there are some workarounds you can try.

Recover or reset your password

1. From the Facebook login page on the web or in the app, click Forgot password?.

2. Enter the email or phone number associated with the account and hit Search.

3. You may see a partially-hidden email address or other information on the next screen (like R*********@g****.com), and that may help you remember your login information. If not, click Try another way.

4. Facebook will offer you several password reset options, and they’ll vary depending on what other services you use. Choose the one that works best for you, and hit Continue to begin the reset process.

Report your account as fake

As a last-ditch attempt to remove your account without any login information, you can report it as fake. There’s no guarantee this will work, but you can try. And it goes without saying that you should not maliciously report an account you don’t like in the hope that it’ll be deleted. You’re better than that.

You will have to be logged into Facebook to file a report, though, so you’ll need to either create a new account to find and report your old account, or team up with a friend or family member to report it from their account. If you can’t do any of these, Facebook has an online form that will let you report an imposter account without logging in. Otherwise, follow these steps:

1. While logged into Facebook, go to the Facebook profile you want to report (yours, in this case).

2. Click the three dots under the cover photo. If you’re using a web browser, choose Find support or report; if you’re in the app, tap Report profile.

3. Select the problem you have with the account. There are several options here, but you’ll probably want to choose Pretending to be someone. It’s you, but the account is pretending to be someone who wants to be on Facebook, after all.

4. Choose Me, and Facebook will ask if the account is violating the social network’s community standards. You can click See Community Standards to read up on them, or just hit Submit to report the account. If all goes well, Facebook will remove it from the site.

This story has been updated. It was originally published in 2021.

The post How to delete your Facebook account and take your data with you appeared first on Popular Science.

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Knowing how to reverse image search is a useful skill. Sometimes called backwards image search, this technique allows you to use a picture from your device’s gallery, a screenshot, or an image URL as a starting point to find out where it’s been used online. 

You may have heard of it used in connection with Google image search, but the Big G is only one of the platforms offering this feature—there are several others you can use for free on your phone, tablet, or computer. The most accurate reverse image search tool will heavily depend on what you’re looking for, so it’s worth trying all of these options to see how the results compare.

Reverse image searching is a good way to find photos similar to ones you already have, or better quality versions of them. You might also want to find the original iteration of a picture or piece of digital art—or make sure no one is using your content without permission.

Search by image on Google

Google allows you to submit your image in a number of ways. Whichever one you choose, you’ll typically end up with a gallery that includes exact matches to your picture, as well as results that look similar to it. Generally, Google can identify what’s in your photo, so you might also see related text results. If it’s a logo, for example, you might see the company’s website, or if it’s a plant you might see its name and information about the species.

[Related: 5 Google search tips for the most accurate results]

1. From a desktop or mobile browser, head to Google Images

2. Click or tap the search by image button—it looks like a colorful camera. 

3. Submit your photo.

• On desktop, you can drag an image in from another window, upload a file from your computer, or paste in the URL of the image you want to find.
• On mobile, you can snap an image with your camera or tap the picture icon to the left of the search button to choose an image from your phone. As soon as you upload the image, Google will show you results for it. 

4. (Optional) To find exact matches from a desktop browser, click Find image source. To access the same tool from a mobile device, tap the image source button in the lower right—the icon looks like a small magnifying glass and globe. You’ll immediately see a list of matches together with their resolution and the website they’re on. This is extremely useful if you want to know where the picture was first posted or grab it at a different size or quality.

How to reverse image search on Bing

If you’d like to run a reverse image search on a platform other than Google, Microsoft’s search engine can also get the job done, and it categorizes the results for easy navigation. 

1. Open up Bing in a desktop or mobile browser and click or tap the square camera icon to the right of the search box.

2. Submit your photo.

• On desktop, you can drag an image into the window, pick one from your system, or enter an image URL.
• On mobile, you can take a snap with your phone’s camera or choose a picture from the device’s storage by tapping the picture icon in the lower left corner of your screen.

3. Bing will immediately present you with a list of matches split into three categories, but depending on the photo you used, you might not see all of them.

• Pages with this image: These are exact matches for the picture you’re searching for. 
• Related content: These are similar kinds of images to the one you’re searching for.
• Shop for similar: These are items on retail sites that closely match your image. This category comes in handy if you’re shopping for a certain top or pair of shoes, for example.

4. (Optional) To sort your reverse image search results, go to the Pages with this image section. There are two buttons on this panel—one specifying how many pages of matches Bing found, and the other specifying how many image sizes are available. Click or tap the pages button to see the individual URLs listed in order. You can also click or tap the image size button to see the matches grouped by resolution, in pixels.

How to reverse image search with TinEye

Another useful reverse image search tool is TinEye. As with Google and Bing, you can access the search box through a desktop or mobile browser. You can also save yourself the typing by getting the platform’s extension, available for Chrome, Firefox, Edge, and Opera. 

1. Tap the Upload button to choose a picture from your phone or computer, or enter an image URL in the box. You’ll immediately see a collection of matches from the web. Alongside each of them, you’ll see the date a picture was first posted, and its resolution. 

2. (Optional) Sort results by using the drop-down menu at the top of the list. You’ll be able to group images by date, size, or closest match. 

3. (Optional) Refine your results using the checkboxes at the top. You’ll be able to filter by images that were recently deleted from the web and are no longer available, results from stock photo companies (handy if you want to license a picture), and items that are part of collections (groups of other similar images). If you’re trying to figure out when a picture was originally posted, that last option can be particularly useful—the image you’re looking for may have been uploaded as part of a set along with other similar ones.

Reverse image search is mostly safe

When you submit a photo for reverse image lookup, platforms like Google and Bing use their algorithms to analyze the file and find others like it online. To do that, they need to store the image for a limited period of time while they process it. 

Google’s terms of service, for example, are vague enough that they don’t say exactly how long they store the pictures you use for reverse image search. However, according to the company’s official community message board, they keep a copy for about a week, but it’s not indexed by Google and is only accessible if you have the file’s URL. After that, the image is deleted forever. 

[Related: Organizing your photos can be a chore. Let AI tag them for you.]

The post How to do a reverse image search appeared first on Popular Science.

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If driving your car is your main form of transportation, then Waze (available for Android and iOS) offers a solid alternative to Apple Maps and Google Maps when it comes to turn-by-turn navigation. But one thing that sets the app apart from the rest is the ability to record new voices for directions.

And it doesn’t have to be your own. For example, you could have one of your kids or that friend with the baritone to get you to your destination every time. You might even want to hear how your own voice does the job.

Note that these custom Waze voices only cover the basics of the directions. At the moment, Waze can’t leverage the artificial intelligent power to adapt your voice to pronounce the name of every place, road, city, or town in the world—although it might only be a matter of time before a feature like this is available.

Recording a new Waze voices

Open Waze on your phone. If you have an Android device, tap the three horizontal lines in the top left corner of your screen, followed by Settings; iPhone users should tap the My Waze heading at the bottom, and then the cog icon in the top left corner of the interface. Select Voice and sound, then the current voice used for navigation (most likely Waze voice), and finally, Add a voice.

You’ll see a safety warning reminding you to make sure that the verbal instructions you record are clear and accurate, and then Waze will ask for your permission to use your phone’s microphone. After that, it’s time to record—let your inner voice actor out or ask the person whose voice you’re using to step in.

[Related: Navigating with GPS is making our brains lazy]

Tap Name your voice at the top of the screen to identify the new narrator, and choose the phrases you want to record: There’s a comprehensive list with everything from “Let’s get started—drive safe!” to “Take the fourth exit”. You don’t have to tackle all of these in one go: you can always come back and finish your recording later, and Waze will default to its regular voice for any clips still pending.

When you choose a phrase, a recording window will pop up. Tap the red circle button to register your voice, and the blue play button to hear it back. Waze will tell you how many seconds you have to get each phrase in, so you can’t drag it out too much—the time will count down as you’re recording to make it easier to fit all of it in there. When you’re happy with a clip, tap Save.

As you start to build up the bank of voice recordings, you’ll see the red record buttons next to each phrase change—tap the blue play button to hear the clip, and a trash can button to delete it and try again. If you’re done for the day, tap Save to go back to the main Waze app.

How to switch between Waze voices

When you record a voice, the app will automatically set it as the default navigation narrator. To change it in the future, head to the settings screen on your phone as detailed above, and choose Voice and sound. A blue checkmark will sit next to the voice you’re currently using.

You’ll notice that Waze offers a wide selection of fun and serious voices to pick from, including cats, dogs, and noir detectives. Some of these voices will have an “including street names” label, which means they’ve been programmed with these specifics on the map. If you choose one that doesn’t (including your own recordings), you’ll have to settle for machine-generated voices and pronunciations for the names of specific streets and places.

[Related: Learning a new language? Here’s how to perfect your pronunciation.]

When it comes to the custom Waze voices, you’ve got two little icons next to each one: Tap the pen icon to go back to the recording screen to make changes and add phrases, or tap the share icon (an arrow pushing out of a box) to send your recorded voice clips to someone else on Waze. Maybe grandparents also want to be directed around town by your kids, so just tap the Share button to confirm and pick a contact or an app to share a link in.

So, next time you need to hit the road, open the map screen on Waze, enter your destination, and your selected voice will guide you there. You can also change the voice mid-drive by tapping the speaker icon next to the estimated time of arrival and choosing then Voice directions.

The post Anybody can be your travel guide with customized Waze voices appeared first on Popular Science.

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Paper copies and filing cabinets have become less common since cloud computing became more ubiquitous. But you may still need to sign a PDF document, which may be a problem if you don’t have a printer and scanner handy.

The solution is to do everything digitally, scribbling your signature with your finger, a stylus, or a mouse cursor, and pasting it on the PDF. There are multiple different ways to go about it, so you can choose the one that suits you best.

 How to sign a PDF document on Windows

If you’re looking for a built-in PDF signing tool in Windows, your best option is the Microsoft Edge browser that comes with the operating system. To open a file, drag it into a browser tab from File Explorer or press Ctrl+O and select the document.

[Related: How to combine PDF files for free without sketchy online software]

Up at the top of the screen, you’ll see a new toolbar: Click the small arrow next to Draw to choose the color and line thickness of your signature. With that done, leave your mark on the document using your mouse or trackpad. You may also use your finger if your Windows device has a touchscreen.

If you don’t like your digitized autograph and need to start again, click the icon that looks like an eraser. Once you’re happy with the result, head over to the save icons you’ll see up in the top-right corner of your screen—they look like floppy disks. Click the one on the left to save over the original PDF or the one on the right (with the pen icon) to save the signed document as a new file.

How to sign a PDF document on macOS

Over on Apple’s desktop operating system, your native PDF-signing tool is the easy-to-use  Preview. By default, all PDFs should open in the tool by double-clicking on them, but if that’s not the case, you can always summon the app via Spotlight search: type “preview” on the search bar that appears when you hit command + spacebar. Select the program and then open the document from there by going to File and clicking Open. 

Once Preview is displaying the relevant file, you should see an icon on the toolbar at the top that looks like a signature. If you don’t see the option, go to View and click on Show Markup Toolbar—it’s towards the bottom of the menu. Click the signature button and choose Create Signature. There are several ways to go about it: You can scrawl your autograph on your trackpad, you can hold a piece of paper with your signature on it up to your Mac’s webcam, or you can sign using your finger or an Apple Pencil on an iPhone or iPad linked to the same Apple ID as your computer.

When you’re done with the result, click Done and your scribble will drop into the document, where you’ll be able to reposition and resize it as needed. Your signature will automatically save for future use, so next time you open a document on Preview, you can click on the signature icon and your autograph will be there ready to be inserted wherever you need it.   

To save over the current PDF, choose File and then Save; or if you’d rather create a new file, choose File and Export instead.

How to sign a PDF file on Android

If you want to sign a PDF on Android you don’t need the hassle of downloading and signing up for another app—Google Drive, which should already be on your device, has you covered. Open up a PDF, then tap the edit button (bottom right), which looks like a pen with a scribble next to it.

Tap the pen tool (bottom left) and choose a color and line thickness for your signature. With that done, you can sign right on the document. Use the eraser or the undo (backward arrow) buttons on the toolbar to go back and start again, if you need to. You can then tap Save to overwrite the PDF, or tap the three dots (top right) and Save copy to create a separate file.

And if you don’t want to use Google Drive, Android has plenty of third-party options to pick from, as well. Adobe Fill & Sign can scan a written signature you’ve got on a piece of paper for example, while JetSign can work with other types of files (like Word documents) as well as PDFs.

How to sign a PDF on iOS or iPadOS

The digital signing features on iOS and iPadOS closely match those on macOS, and you’ll find the relevant tools in the Files app. Open a PDF in Files, then tap the icon in the bottom right corner that looks like a pen filling out a form. This brings up a list of your existing signatures, including ones you might have created on your Mac.

You can also tap Add or Remove Signature and the + (plus) icon to create a new scribble using your finger or an Apple Pencil. Once you’ve selected a signature, you can reposition it on the document by dragging it around with your finger, and resize it by moving the blue handles around the edges. Tap Done to overwrite the existing file. If you want a separate copy, tap the file name (top left) and then Duplicate.

As you would expect, plenty of third-party apps for iOS and iPadOS will take over PDF signing duties if you need them to. PDF Expert gives you access to a host of PDF editing tools, including the ability to add signatures, while SignNow is a good choice if multiple people need to sign the same file.

Other options to sign a PDF document

If you want to test and compare several tools, there are yet more options you can try out. If your PDF documents are in Dropbox, you can open them up on the web, then click Add signatures and Self-sign to add your autograph. You can draw using your mouse or trackpad, create a signature based on a font of your choice, or upload an image of your signature from somewhere else.

[Related: Easily convert a PDF to an image on your phone]

DocuSign also offers a comprehensive set of document-signing tools. Click your profile picture (top right), then Manage Profile and Signatures to assign your personal scribbles to your account, which you can then add to any of your documents. If multiple parties are signing the same document, DocuSign can keep track of who has signed what, and when.

If you want something simple that runs in your browser, you can rely upon ILovePDF for any kind of PDF editing or processing task. Just click Sign PDF and follow the instructions on the screen. You can scribble out a signature with your mouse or trackpad, upload an image of your signature, or generate one using your name and font of your choice.